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609 items found in BUSINESS: Analysis & test methods, Legislation, Commentaries.

Downloadable PDF Work under way on traceability standard
A United Nations Economic Commission for Europe (UNECE) project aims to establish new traceability standards to help tackle the problem of clothing and footwear adding to the broader burden of waste. One of the standards will focus specifically on leather traceability.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2020
Downloadable PDF Over-complication
In the first in a series of articles that draw on his long, personal experience as a tanner, technical editor, Matthew Abbott, argues that the processes involved in making leather are difficult enough already. To add more complexity is to invite trouble.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2020
Downloadable PDF EU project aims to set up new tanning process
Academics from Ca’ Foscari University in Venice and tanning industry partners in nearby Vicenza have been working together and making progress on GOAST, a project that is part of the European Union’s wider LIFE programme and aims to encourage the use of greener tanning agents to make leather manufacture more sustainable.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2020
Downloadable PDF Waste worth billions
Statistics from France’s Conseil National Du Cuir provide a reminder of just how much value tanners and finished product manufacturers are able to add to hides. In the right hands, the worth of the waste that the meat and dairy sectors generate can increase by more than 2000% (two thousand per cent).
World Leather - Jun/July 2020
Downloadable PDF Waste worth billions
Statistics from France’s Conseil National Du Cuir provide a reminder of just how much value tanners and finished product manufacturers are able to add to hides. In the right hands, the worth of the waste that the meat and dairy sectors generate can increase by more than 2000% (two thousand per cent).
World Leather - Jun/July 2020
Downloadable PDF What else but leather?
A specialist consultancy has combined western materials, including leather from Scotland, and knowledge of Chinese culture and values to find an ideal fit in supplying furniture and interior design concepts to an independent school in Beijing.
World Leather - Jun/July 2020
Downloadable PDF What else but leather?
A specialist consultancy has combined western materials, including leather from Scotland, and knowledge of Chinese culture and values to find an ideal fit in supplying furniture and interior design concepts to an independent school in Beijing.
World Leather - Jun/July 2020
Downloadable PDF Ready to face new challenges
The president of UNIC, Gianni Russo, says the overwhelming sensation that Italy’s tanners felt on returning to work after weeks of lockdown was relief, but he says patience is required among member companies as the slow recovery from the covid-19 crisis continues. Something that may help is a new law in Italy protecting the term ‘leather’ from misuse by companies that make or sell synthetic substitutes.
World Leather - Jun/July 2020
Downloadable PDF Ready to face new challenges
The president of UNIC, Gianni Russo, says the overwhelming sensation that Italy’s tanners felt on returning to work after weeks of lockdown was relief, but he says patience is required among member companies as the slow recovery from the covid-19 crisis continues. Something that may help is a new law in Italy protecting the term ‘leather’ from misuse by companies that make or sell synthetic substitutes.
World Leather - Jun/July 2020
Downloadable PDF Ready to face new challenges
The president of UNIC, Gianni Russo, says the overwhelming sensation that Italy’s tanners felt on returning to work after weeks of lockdown was relief, but he says patience is required among member companies as the slow recovery from the covid-19 crisis continues. Something that may help is a new law in Italy protecting the term ‘leather’ from misuse by companies that make or sell synthetic substitutes.
World Leather - Jun/July 2020
Downloadable PDF Rich heritage
Millau’s leather and glove manufacturers are at the heart of an ongoing effort to win UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage status. The aim of the team behind this ambitious project is to celebrate and preserve the centuries of skill-sharing and traditions that have gone into making Millau a world-renowned centre of gloving excellence, with spin-off socio-economic benefits for partners in France and overseas.
World Leather - Jun/July 2020
Downloadable PDF Rich heritage
Millau’s leather and glove manufacturers are at the heart of an ongoing effort to win UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage status. The aim of the team behind this ambitious project is to celebrate and preserve the centuries of skill-sharing and traditions that have gone into making Millau a world-renowned centre of gloving excellence, with spin-off socio-economic benefits for partners in France and overseas.
World Leather - Jun/July 2020
Downloadable PDF Sacred Cow: It’s the How
The Sacred Cow project is soon to release a book and a movie, making the case for an ethical, regenerative food system built around well-raised cattle.
World Leather - Jun/July 2020
Downloadable PDF Time to put the by-product debate to bed
There are ill-founded arguments that the raw material for leather is a co-product rather than a byproduct of the meat and dairy industries. After what the Leather and Hide Council of America has called “a staggering decline” in the hide’s share of cattle value, these arguments have now collapsed.
World Leather - Jun/July 2020
Downloadable PDF The transformation continues
The entire world is being rocked by the effects of covid-19 pandemic, but the European Commission wants to press ahead with its plans for a move to a circular economy. It is willing to make extra funding of €750 billion available to help make this happen.
World Leather - Jun/July 2020
Downloadable PDF A material for keeping
Entrepreneur Arturas Kanapkis discovered that stylish bags made from Tuscan vegetable-tanned leather chimed perfectly with his love and respect for ageless elegance, allowing him to build up his own leathergoods brand.
World Leather - Apr/May 2020
Downloadable PDF To plot a path beyond Covid-19
Tanning group PrimeAsia has leather manufacturing facilities in Huangjiang in China and in Ba Ria-Vung Tau in Vietnam. These tanneries currently have a combined production capacity of around 11 million square-feet of finished lifestyle and athletic leather per month, which the group supplies to dozens of global footwear brands. In this interview, its chief executive, Jon Clark, offers some reflections on the effects of the Covid-19 pandemic on PrimeAsia’s operations and on the wider leather industry.
World Leather - Apr/May 2020
Downloadable PDF To plot a path beyond Covid-19
Tanning group PrimeAsia has leather manufacturing facilities in Huangjiang in China and in Ba Ria-Vung Tau in Vietnam. These tanneries currently have a combined production capacity of around 11 million square-feet of finished lifestyle and athletic leather per month, which the group supplies to dozens of global footwear brands. In this interview, its chief executive, Jon Clark, offers some reflections on the effects of the Covid-19 pandemic on PrimeAsia’s operations and on the wider leather industry.
World Leather - Apr/May 2020
Downloadable PDF To plot a path beyond Covid-19
Tanning group PrimeAsia has leather manufacturing facilities in Huangjiang in China and in Ba Ria-Vung Tau in Vietnam. These tanneries currently have a combined production capacity of around 11 million square-feet of finished lifestyle and athletic leather per month, which the group supplies to dozens of global footwear brands. In this interview, its chief executive, Jon Clark, offers some reflections on the effects of the Covid-19 pandemic on PrimeAsia’s operations and on the wider leather industry.
World Leather - Apr/May 2020
Downloadable PDF Louboutin is loyal to leather
Shoe designer Christian Louboutin has received encouragement to try out “fake” material in his collections in place of leather. He carried out his own research into the comparative merits of both materials and drew a clear conclusion.
World Leather - Apr/May 2020
Downloadable PDF Louboutin is loyal to leather
Shoe designer Christian Louboutin has received encouragement to try out “fake” material in his collections in place of leather. He carried out his own research into the comparative merits of both materials and drew a clear conclusion.
World Leather - Apr/May 2020
Downloadable PDF Limited editions, unlimited creativity
Designer Frederikke Antonie Schmidt’s decision to build a high heels label using leather offcuts from other brands has resulted in a shoe collection that is dynamic, playful and sustainable.
World Leather - Apr/May 2020
Downloadable PDF Limited editions, unlimited creativity
Designer Frederikke Antonie Schmidt’s decision to build a high heels label using leather offcuts from other brands has resulted in a shoe collection that is dynamic, playful and sustainable.
World Leather - Apr/May 2020
Downloadable PDF Leather ‘holds so much promise’ for Niger
The Enhanced Integrated Framework tells World Leather how it is working with the government to modernise tanneries, train leather workers and set up more advanced systems for skin collection and exports.
World Leather - Apr/May 2020
Downloadable PDF Keep the wheels turning
The director of industry body Leather UK, Dr Kerry Senior, argues here that, just as the covid- 19 crisis has brought new and deserved appreciation for a number of previously unrecognised ‘key worker’ roles, governments should recognise the important part leather manufacturers and tannery workers play in supporting the allimportant food supply chain.
World Leather - Apr/May 2020
Downloadable PDF 34 leathers, 20 threads, 2 linings—the choice is yours
London-based luxury leathergoods brand Ettinger celebrated its 85th birthday by introducing a bespoke service that allows discerning shoppers to customise their purchases through a wide choice of leather, lining and thread.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2019
Downloadable PDF Reality check - Let’s not waste a crisis
Columnist David Peters is alarmed by the volume of hide trimmings that are accumulated at wet blue facilities and then sent to a landfill. He argues that figuring out a solution to the problem of poor fleshing and trimming of hides should be perfectly feasible.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2019
Downloadable PDF Vindication
In his latest column, Sam Setter says the once-thriving leather industries in Ethiopia and Bangladesh are in danger of shooting themselves in the foot.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2019
Downloadable PDF Leather claims and remarks (part one)
The authors of this paper have extensive experience in attending claims. Their aim here is to clarify and organise the procedures to follow when a tannery faces a claim from a customer. Normally, the problems involve commercial, technical and production areas and imply taking rapid action and clear communication with the client. Collecting information, being accessible and interacting with the client are crucial in solving the problem in the fastest possible way and with the least possible material (or emotional) loss.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2019
Downloadable PDF Leather in the fast lane
The world’s leading motorcycle apparel brands, Alpinestars and Dainese, tell us why leather will always have a special place on the track and on the road.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2019
Downloadable PDF Leather in the fast lane
The world’s leading motorcycle apparel brands, Alpinestars and Dainese, tell us why leather will always have a special place on the track and on the road.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2019
Downloadable PDF Around the world
In this guest column, the international sales director of GSC Group, Diego Cisco, examines the differences and similarities in leather industry customers from Argentina to Allahabad.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2019
Downloadable PDF What have I got to do to make you love me?
In his latest column, David Peters describes plastic as “an environmental calamity in progress”, while leather is a true recycled raw material. And yet, new leather orders are still well short of using up the high volume of hides coming onto the market.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2019
Downloadable PDF XXXV IULTCS Congress 2019
The XXXV Congress of the International Union of Leather Technologists and Chemists Societies (IULTCS) took place in June in the city of Dresden, returning to Germany after 29 years. World Leather reports on some of the keynote speeches and interesting developments that were presented during the four-day event.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2019
Downloadable PDF Here we go again
Illegal assaults on farms are unacceptable, Sam Setter argues, but industries related to the raising of animals for meat and dairy need to open themselves up to public scrutiny and take steps to show that they meet or exceed all fairness standards.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2019
Downloadable PDF Leather bites the Big Apple
Manhattan was the venue for the congress, which brought tanners, brands and industry organisations under one roof to talk about the thousands of ways in which leather makes an impact on everyday life.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2019
Downloadable PDF Conference round-up
Details of talks and presentations that caught the eye and the ear at the SLTC and ALCA conferences.
World Leather - Jun/July 2019
Downloadable PDF Under the skin
Skyeskyns’ remote Scottish home provides a stunning backdrop for traditional tanning practices that attract visitors in their thousands.
World Leather - Jun/July 2019
Downloadable PDF Blame it on the bovines
Links between the meat and livestock industry and leather is one of the themes we have set out to cover in depth in the course of 2019. Part of the ongoing debate is the contribution livestock herds make to greenhouse gas emissions. The statistics are frequently misunderstood and sometimes deliberately exaggerated to paint agriculture, meat and (by extension) leather in a bad light. No one is doing more to present accurate figures and the science behind them to the wider public than Professor Frank Mitloehner.
World Leather - Jun/July 2019
Downloadable PDF Only natural ingredients
David Peters describes plastic as a substrate that is “eating away at leather’s rightful place in society”. He points out that, particularly for footwear, leather has been relegated to just another material. Concentrating on leather’s natural qualities is the best way to counter this, he claims.
World Leather - Jun/July 2019
Downloadable PDF New UN studies
A 2018 study on leather value chains in Africa by the United Nations Conference on Trade and Development has come to Sam Setter’s attention. His assessment of the document is typically forthright (referencing documents from as long ago as 1962 has done the authors few favours in Sam’s eyes).
World Leather - Jun/July 2019
Downloadable PDF Country Commentary: What months of mistrust could mean
Trade tensions have been building up between China and the US since the start of 2018. A resolution appeared to be within reach in the early part of this year, but May and June 2019 have been among the most turbulent months in the dispute so far and most of the optimism has faded.
World Leather - Jun/July 2019
Downloadable PDF DNA traceability of hides and leather
Applied DNA Sciences (ADNAS) and Eurofins BLC Leather Technology Centre last year completed a successful research project to develop a comprehensive traceability platform for leather. The organisations are now working together on the commercial implementation of this system.
World Leather - Apr/May 2019
Downloadable PDF ‘App’ is not short for happy
David Peters calculates that if retail and restaurant businesses throughout the world could be persuaded to use just 45 square-feet of leather in each outlet to replace just a tiny part of all the plastic they use, tanners would need to process almost 30 million extra hides.
World Leather - Apr/May 2019
Downloadable PDF Nature didn’t mean us to be vegans
We cannot bury the one million hides and three million skins that the meat industry produces every day, Sam Setter argues. Veganism is not the solution. The industry needs to transform the material into leather in a responsible and sustainable way.
World Leather - Apr/May 2019
Downloadable PDF Automotive leather in 2019
Long the saving grace of the global leather industry, the automotive sector is undergoing significant changes now and questions have arisen over leather’s future in automotive. There are grounds for optimism as high-end original equipment manufacturers still prefer, and make money out of, leather upholstery. It is also the case that sports utility vehicles and crossover utility vehicles are still voracious users of leather in their interiors and amongst the car brands’ biggest sellers. But sales growth is slowing across the board. With the importance of leather in other markets waning, these recent developments in automotive are making the mood darker.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2019
Downloadable PDF Bauhaus bags
Architect-turned-leathergoods-designer Elena Garcia Silva uses her knowledge of and passion for beautiful buildings in the collections she creates for Lautem, her own leathergoods brand.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2019
Downloadable PDF Bauhaus bags
Architect-turned-leathergoods-designer Elena Garcia Silva uses her knowledge of and passion for beautiful buildings in the collections she creates for Lautem, her own leathergoods brand.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2019
Downloadable PDF Let designers share their dreams with tanners
A discussion forum at Lineapelle London in January gave designers and material experts the opportunity to tell the leather industry what hopes they have for putting leather to use in the imaginative collections of the future.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2019
Downloadable PDF The Whale in the Room
David Peters questions why plastics, which have replaced leather in a number of its most important markets, do not face higher levels of scrutiny and opposition, especially from those campaigning to protect the very animals that plastic pollution can harm.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2019
Downloadable PDF The Whale in the Room
David Peters questions why plastics, which have replaced leather in a number of its most important markets, do not face higher levels of scrutiny and opposition, especially from those campaigning to protect the very animals that plastic pollution can harm.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2019
Downloadable PDF India looks for positive export momentum
Ahead of the 2019 India International Leather Fair (IILF) in Chennai, leaders of the Indian leather industry said they were targeting export growth of 8-10% over the next two years. Aided by the government support package unveiled ahead of last year’s show, it appears progress is being made.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2019
Downloadable PDF Leather – a sustainable choice
World Leather technical editor, Matthew Abbott, reports from the fourth annual Lanxess leather symposium, which took place at the company’s headquarters in Cologne in January.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2019
Downloadable PDF Leather project will boost jobs and exports
A start-up venture that aims to build a world-class leather and finished product operation in Nigeria launched in early 2019. The initiative, called the Pan African Leather project, will involve setting up a new tannery, a new shoe factory and other artisan workshops for finished products in Sokoto in the north-west of the country, creating employment, reducing poverty, empowering women and young people and reclaiming the region’s leather past.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2019
Downloadable PDF Fiji water—is it more sustainable than leather?
Drawing on the example of a marketing stunt that Fiji Water carried out in January, Sam Setter calls on those within the leather industry to be more aggressive when it comes to defending and promoting their highly sustainable material. Among his suggestions are direct appeals to the consumer.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2019
Downloadable PDF Fiji water—is it more sustainable than leather?
Drawing on the example of a marketing stunt that Fiji Water carried out in January, Sam Setter calls on those within the leather industry to be more aggressive when it comes to defending and promoting their highly sustainable material. Among his suggestions are direct appeals to the consumer.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2019
Downloadable PDF Diamonds spark a love of leather
An entrepreneur from London, Obi Okoronkwo, launched luxury accessories brand, Laurus, in 2016. With a showroom in Milan, Laurus appears to be following a well-trodden path, but Mr Okoronkwo’s route into leathergoods was unusual.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2018
Downloadable PDF Diamonds spark a love of leather
An entrepreneur from London, Obi Okoronkwo, launched luxury accessories brand, Laurus, in 2016. With a showroom in Milan, Laurus appears to be following a well-trodden path, but Mr Okoronkwo’s route into leathergoods was unusual.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2018
Downloadable PDF Jurassic World
In his first column of 2019, David Peters argues that we have to accept that the leather industry has “lost the war with synthetics” and should concentrate now on consolidating its hold on the luxury market by emphasising at every turn the unique properties of leather.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2018
Downloadable PDF No shame at all
Sam Setter’s attention returns to Bangladesh, with a typically stark message for the tanners operating at the new Savar-Hemayetpur leather manufacturing cluster.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2018
Downloadable PDF TOTY - Buyer’s View: Russkaya Kozha and Unichel
The Russian footwear group insists that it will not compromise on the quality of its shoes in the face of what it calls “unfair competition from counterfeit products”. Instead, it intends to put more emphasis than ever on authenticity, which means investing heavily in leather from suppliers such as Russkaya Kozha.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2018
Downloadable PDF You can’t handle the truth
For David Peters, cattle farmers, beef packers, food companies and restaurant chains need to “join the fight” to keep leather relevant.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2018
Downloadable PDF Louboutin gets green light to protect its red sole
A recent ruling by the European Court of Justice (ECJ) looks set to allow high-end footwear brand Christian Louboutin to continue to protect the distinctive red sole with which it has become synonymous.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2018
Downloadable PDF Mainstream shoes are not coming back
Received wisdom in the leather industry is that the price of hides always moves in a cycle from cheap to expensive and back again. Prices reached historically high levels in 2014 and 2015 and shoe companies drastically reduced the volume of leather they were using in their collections. Tanners held tight, believing that these customers would return in the time-honoured way when hide prices came down again. Prices are down. The shoe companies have not come back. The cycle appears to be broken.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2018
Downloadable PDF Mainstream shoes are not coming back
Received wisdom in the leather industry is that the price of hides always moves in a cycle from cheap to expensive and back again. Prices reached historically high levels in 2014 and 2015 and shoe companies drastically reduced the volume of leather they were using in their collections. Tanners held tight, believing that these customers would return in the time-honoured way when hide prices came down again. Prices are down. The shoe companies have not come back. The cycle appears to be broken.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2018
Downloadable PDF Mainstream shoes are not coming back
Received wisdom in the leather industry is that the price of hides always moves in a cycle from cheap to expensive and back again. Prices reached historically high levels in 2014 and 2015 and shoe companies drastically reduced the volume of leather they were using in their collections. Tanners held tight, believing that these customers would return in the time-honoured way when hide prices came down again. Prices are down. The shoe companies have not come back. The cycle appears to be broken.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2018
Downloadable PDF The needs of the many
A number of UK footwear companies have come together with the British Footwear Association (BFA) to launch a new nationally accredited apprenticeship standard that it is hoped will help train the next generation of shoemakers.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2018
Downloadable PDF The needs of the many
A number of UK footwear companies have come together with the British Footwear Association (BFA) to launch a new nationally accredited apprenticeship standard that it is hoped will help train the next generation of shoemakers.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2018
Downloadable PDF Story of a shoemaker
Master bootmaker Jean-Michel Casalonga fell in love with Berluti shoes at the age of 19 and, through persistence and patience, convinced the brand’s craftspeople to teach him the trade. He recalls being told to touch nothing in the workshop, except with his eyes.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2018
Downloadable PDF From bad to worse
Sam Setter outlines the details of an alleged fraud scandal involving leather manufacturers in Bangladesh.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2018
Downloadable PDF Leather in the time of trade tensions
The writing was on the wall when the US president said at the start of 2018 that his country’s era of “economic surrender” was over. He said he wanted the US’s trade relationship with China to be “fair and reciprocal” and that he would use “strong enforcement” of trade rules to achieve that. What followed has been a year of tit-for-tat tariff escalation, which worried almost every industry involved in global trade, including leather and footwear.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2018
Downloadable PDF Leather in the time of trade tensions
The writing was on the wall when the US president said at the start of 2018 that his country’s era of “economic surrender” was over. He said he wanted the US’s trade relationship with China to be “fair and reciprocal” and that he would use “strong enforcement” of trade rules to achieve that. What followed has been a year of tit-for-tat tariff escalation, which worried almost every industry involved in global trade, including leather and footwear.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2018
Downloadable PDF A luxury statement
Leather made the cut as one of the “exquisite materials” Mercedes-Benz incorporated into the Vision Mercedes-Maybach Ultimate Luxury concept car it unveiled at Auto China 2018.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2018
Downloadable PDF Put me on a highway and show me a sign
David Peters explains how the continuing surplus of raw materials has changed the dynamics of the hide market.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2018
Downloadable PDF Put me on a highway and show me a sign
David Peters explains how the continuing surplus of raw materials has changed the dynamics of the hide market.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2018
Downloadable PDF Innovation Square: inspired by science
The organisers of Lineapelle have agreed to introduce a new component, Innovation Square, at the next exhibition (Milan, September 25-27). Start-ups will have a chance to pitch their ideas to a large variety of stakeholders, including academic institutions, as well as potential investors from the world of finance and from bigger tanning groups, who have a desire to hear about new things and the budget to back them.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2018
Downloadable PDF Regulatory requirements with an impact on leather manufacture
With the registration phase of the European Chemicals Agency’s REACH project having concluded, Dr Martin Kleban from Lanxess offers an overview of important developments in recent months.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2018
Downloadable PDF Regulatory requirements with an impact on leather manufacture
With the registration phase of the European Chemicals Agency’s REACH project having concluded, Dr Martin Kleban from Lanxess offers an overview of important developments in recent months.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2018
Downloadable PDF Quality is the new mantra
Sam Setter gives his thoughts on what the future holds for the leather industry at a time of abundant supplies of hides and skins and in the face of ongoing criticism from anti-leather campaign groups.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2018
Downloadable PDF Quality is the new mantra
Sam Setter gives his thoughts on what the future holds for the leather industry at a time of abundant supplies of hides and skins and in the face of ongoing criticism from anti-leather campaign groups.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2018
Downloadable PDF 114th Annual Convention of the American Leather Chemists Association
Highlights from the 2018 annual convention of the American Leather Chemists Association at the Eaglewood Resort in Illinois.
World Leather - Jun/July 2018
Downloadable PDF A cut above the rest
With the help of technology solutions provider Lectra, French furniture maker Duvivier Canapés has been able to boost its production capacity and give more customers the opportunity to own a piece of its stylish leather furniture.
World Leather - Jun/July 2018
Downloadable PDF A cut above the rest
With the help of technology solutions provider Lectra, French furniture maker Duvivier Canapés has been able to boost its production capacity and give more customers the opportunity to own a piece of its stylish leather furniture.
World Leather - Jun/July 2018
Downloadable PDF Sopite syndrome
David Peters warns that the combination of high slaughter rates and an ongoing decline in demand for leather from the footwear sector could release as many as 45 million extra hides for other sectors.
World Leather - Jun/July 2018
Downloadable PDF A comparison between leather and alternative substrates
There is ongoing debate about the relative merits of leather and alternative materials. Many of the arguments employed are based on sentiment and appear to pay little attention to the facts. In this article, technical editor Mike Tomkin looks more closely at those facts and examines the factors that must be considered when selecting the best substrate for a particular purpose.
World Leather - Jun/July 2018
Downloadable PDF Examination of conscience
Sam Setter implores leather buyers to think carefully before they purchase material from tanneries in Bangladesh’s Savar district unless they want to be “accomplices to an environmental disaster”.
World Leather - Jun/July 2018
Downloadable PDF A start-up’s story
Confusion in the marketplace over the sustainability credentials of leather and its competitor materials is rife. When boating shoe brand Two Degrees launched in June this year following a successful crowdfunding campaign, its founders put special emphasis on the footwear’s environmental credentials. But finding a way to describe the materials they had chosen to use proved to be “a minefield”.
World Leather - Jun/July 2018
Downloadable PDF A start-up’s story
Confusion in the marketplace over the sustainability credentials of leather and its competitor materials is rife. When boating shoe brand Two Degrees launched in June this year following a successful crowdfunding campaign, its founders put special emphasis on the footwear’s environmental credentials. But finding a way to describe the materials they had chosen to use proved to be “a minefield”.
World Leather - Jun/July 2018
Downloadable PDF Time for change
The director of the UK Leather Federation, Dr Kerry Senior, argues that the leather industry must work globally to convince brands and consumers to shift away from synthetics and back to leather. His view is that a far more “active and aggressive approach” is required.
World Leather - Jun/July 2018
Downloadable PDF Jackson Wayne lets leather do the talking
Tennessee-based leathergoods manufacturer Jackson Wayne eschews superfluous aesthetic details when designing its products; it prefers to let the vegetable-tanned, fullgrain leather it uses speak for itself.
World Leather - Apr/May 2018
Downloadable PDF Jackson Wayne lets leather do the talking
Tennessee-based leathergoods manufacturer Jackson Wayne eschews superfluous aesthetic details when designing its products; it prefers to let the vegetable-tanned, fullgrain leather it uses speak for itself.
World Leather - Apr/May 2018
Downloadable PDF Circadian dysrhythmia
David Peters insists the only productive use for hides is leather and says this should be obvious, even to the jet-lagged.
World Leather - Apr/May 2018
Downloadable PDF India backs leather to boost national economy
Ahead of the 2018 Indian International Leather Fair (IILF) in Chennai, the Indian government unveiled a support package of more than $400 million for the leather industry, which is seeking to get back on track following more than two years of export decline.
World Leather - Apr/May 2018
Downloadable PDF To do business or not to do business; That is the question
Sam Setter extends a potentially lucrative invitation to tanners from countries with “fewer opportunities”.
World Leather - Apr/May 2018
Downloadable PDF A brand that does things differently
Brazilian footwear and accessories brand Carmen Steffens grew out of the Couroquimica leather manufacturing business 25 years ago, achieving a level of vertical integration that is still unusual in the global industry.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2018
Downloadable PDF Brazil at the start of 2018
After a turbulent twelve months, signs of optimism began to appear for the Brazilian leather industry in the early part of this year.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2018
Downloadable PDF ‘Weather’, or not?
David Peters is in optimistic mood for 2018 thanks to good demand for beef, and for furniture and automotive leather.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2018
Downloadable PDF Leather - an extraordinary material
Leather chemicals manufacturer Lanxess organised its third annual leather industry seminar in January. On this occasion, the main theme of the presentations was what differentiates leather from substitute materials.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2018
Downloadable PDF Leather or not leather? That is the question
The misuse of the term ‘leather’ and the consequences of such misuse is a topic that has generated much discussion in the leather industry in recent months. In this article, technical editor Mike Tomkin offers some insight into what can be done about it.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2018
Downloadable PDF Parlez-vous français?
In his latest column, Sam Setter takes a closer look at the leather industries in the French-speaking parts of Africa.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2018
Downloadable PDF Burberry offcuts find new lease of life
Elvis & Kresse was launched to transform old London Fire Brigade hosepipes into accessories and has now taken on the challenge of repurposing leather, teaming up with the UK-based luxury group to make a dent in the global waste problem.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2017
Downloadable PDF Burberry offcuts find new lease of life
Elvis & Kresse was launched to transform old London Fire Brigade hosepipes into accessories and has now taken on the challenge of repurposing leather, teaming up with the UK-based luxury group to make a dent in the global waste problem.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2017
Downloadable PDF Woulda, coulda, shoulda
David Peters says the new year gives the global leather industry a new chance “to get it right” in the battle to win consumers’ hearts.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2017
Downloadable PDF Woulda, coulda, shoulda
David Peters says the new year gives the global leather industry a new chance “to get it right” in the battle to win consumers’ hearts.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2017
Downloadable PDF Sustainability - more than just a word in fashion
Sam Setter insists that the leather industry is, by and large, sustainable. He acknowledges that there are exceptions, mostly in Asia and Africa, but says these examples must not dominate the world’s view of leather. Instead, the industry needs to get better at presenting itself as a sustainable sector, while working to help bring sustainability laggards up to the required levels.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2017
Downloadable PDF China’s role as a consumer of leather
With two Chinese tanneries taking part in the sixth programme of Tannery of the Year, we are keeping up the tradition of aligning our country commentaries with the tannery reports by dividing the China country commentary into two parts. In the first part, we examined the country’s current status as a manufacturer of leather and leather products. In this follow-up we look at China as a consumer of leather and finished products that contain leather.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2017
Downloadable PDF Sweet dreams
Bed manufacturer De Rucci is investing in advanced technology, including leather-cutting solutions, to help make its supply more efficient while improving product quality. Its aim is to help more customers around the world sleep better, something of which millions of people in today’s world have an urgent need.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2017
Downloadable PDF Houston, we have a problem
David Peters warns that the industry must find a new home for the abundant supply of hides in the wake of leather’s drop in popularity among footwear manufacturers.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2017
Downloadable PDF Leather means leather
The Global Leather Coordinating Committee wants there to be greater protection for the term ‘leather’ in the face of brands and material suppliers using it to describe synthetic substitutes.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2017
Downloadable PDF Animal Welfare
Sam Setter explores whether animal rights groups are raising legitimate questions about animal welfare in the cattle industry.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2017
Downloadable PDF People before profit
Saddleback Leather donates almost all of its earnings to charitable causes and has set up a welfare scheme and nursery at its manufacturing facilities in Mexico.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2017
Downloadable PDF Unchained
Designers and purchasing teams are getting close to making a decision to “reawaken the mass use” of leather.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2017
Downloadable PDF Diverse programme at sixth Freiberg Leather Days
The 2017 Freiberg Leather Days took place in June in the southern Dutch city of Oisterwijk. World Leather reports on some of the interesting developments that were presented during the two-day conference.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2017
Downloadable PDF A new challenge for the leather industry
Technical editor Mike Tomkin assesses the chemical standards that aim to standardise the industry but in some cases just add onerous processes and cost.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2017
Downloadable PDF Where your money goes
Sam Setter gives an example of an African institution that he believes could make better use of leather industry funds.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2017
Downloadable PDF Material witness
In a keynote presentation that he gave at the 2017 Business of Luxury Summit in Lisbon in May, Hermès chief executive, Axel Dumas, offered a robust reaffirmation of his company’s commitment to making its much-desired bags from high-quality leather, and to making them in France.
World Leather - June/July 2017
Downloadable PDF Material witness
In a keynote presentation that he gave at the 2017 Business of Luxury Summit in Lisbon in May, Hermès chief executive, Axel Dumas, offered a robust reaffirmation of his company’s commitment to making its much-desired bags from high-quality leather, and to making them in France.
World Leather - June/July 2017
Downloadable PDF “Blame It on the Bossa Nova”
Does the record fine of around $3.2 billion imposed on JBS, Brazil’s giant meat processor, reflect a general decline in integrity, honesty and values, in society and in business, including the leather and hide business?
World Leather - June/July 2017
Downloadable PDF “Blame It on the Bossa Nova”
Does the record fine of around $3.2 billion imposed on JBS, Brazil’s giant meat processor, reflect a general decline in integrity, honesty and values, in society and in business, including the leather and hide business?
World Leather - June/July 2017
Downloadable PDF Changes in leather education
It’s clear there are fresh challenges for leather education and many of those already involved are adapting as quickly as possible.
World Leather - June/July 2017
Downloadable PDF Leather industry reaches out to jobseekers
COTANCE and its social partner IndustriAll brought the European Commission-backed ‘Leather Is My Job’ project to a conclusion at an event in Igualada in June.
World Leather - June/July 2017
Downloadable PDF The Cluster Challenge
Tanners in Egypt are about realise the 20-year-old dream to move their leather manufacturing cluster from Cairo to a new location, Robeiky Leather City. Sam Setter wonders if some of their ageing machinery will survive the 100-kilometre journey.
World Leather - June/July 2017
Downloadable PDF The Cluster Challenge
Tanners in Egypt are about realise the 20-year-old dream to move their leather manufacturing cluster from Cairo to a new location, Robeiky Leather City. Sam Setter wonders if some of their ageing machinery will survive the 100-kilometre journey.
World Leather - June/July 2017
Downloadable PDF Inspired by art
Australian footwear design student Kira Goodey has won the fifth ‘Craft the Leather’ prize in an annual outreach competition organised by Tuscany’s Consortium for Genuine Italian Vegetable-Tanned Leather. A particular piece of Tuscan art was the main inspiration for her entry, a shoe design that swept the panel of judges away.
World Leather - Apr/May 2017
Downloadable PDF Inspired by art
Australian footwear design student Kira Goodey has won the fifth ‘Craft the Leather’ prize in an annual outreach competition organised by Tuscany’s Consortium for Genuine Italian Vegetable-Tanned Leather. A particular piece of Tuscan art was the main inspiration for her entry, a shoe design that swept the panel of judges away.
World Leather - Apr/May 2017
Downloadable PDF The Summer of Love
Regular columnist David Peters gives his thoughts on March’s APLF exhibition in Hong Kong and reserves special praise for tanners in Brazil.
World Leather - Apr/May 2017
Downloadable PDF Make my day
More on the industry in Africa from Sam Setter, with the focus this time on Zimbabwe. Our columnist feels Zimbabwe and other African countries could do worse than emulate the export strategies of their counterparts in India, Pakistan and Bangladesh.
World Leather - Apr/May 2017
Downloadable PDF Stahl moves to acquire BASF’s leather business
Stahl announced in March that it had agreed to acquire the leather chemicals business of rival manufacturer BASF. The deal is expected to be completed in the fourth quarter of 2017, subject to the approval of the relevant authorities.
World Leather - Apr/May 2017
Downloadable PDF For the love of gloves
Naples-based Gloves dei Fratelli Forino relies on the age-old combination of skilled craftspeople and carefully selected materials to produce a range of elegant leather gloves for all occasions.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2017
Downloadable PDF For the love of gloves
Naples-based Gloves dei Fratelli Forino relies on the age-old combination of skilled craftspeople and carefully selected materials to produce a range of elegant leather gloves for all occasions.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2017
Downloadable PDF The old 45 is scratched
2017 is shaping up to be a good year for the leather industry as mainstream footwear brands and manufacturers begin to examine ways in which to use more leather. Regular columnist David Peters takes a closer look.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2017
Downloadable PDF The old 45 is scratched
2017 is shaping up to be a good year for the leather industry as mainstream footwear brands and manufacturers begin to examine ways in which to use more leather. Regular columnist David Peters takes a closer look.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2017
Downloadable PDF Lanxess Seminar 2017
For the second year running, leather chemicals manufacturer Lanxess hosted a seminar devoted to the leather industry at its headquarters in Cologne in early 2017. This follow-up to an event it organised a year earlier attracted 85 delegates, mostly from finished product brands, a substantial increase compared to the number who attended in 2016.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2017
Downloadable PDF A new leather standard
Research and testing organisation the Oeko-Tex Association has launched a leather standard for the first time. Already 18 organisations around the world are able to carry out formal testing of semi-finished and finished leather, as well as of leathergoods, to check they meet Oeko-Tex requirements.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2017
Downloadable PDF African blues
Sam Setter continues his assessment of the tanning industry in Africa and of frustrations around missed opportunities to help the industry on that continent.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2017
Downloadable PDF Buyer's View: Wolverine Leathers and Interhides Public Company Ltd
For a customer’s perspective of Tannery of the Year finalist Interhides Public Company Limited, we talk to the leather division of footwear group Wolverine Worldwide, a long-time partner, but one with new ideas that it is working on with the Thai leather manufacturer.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2017
Downloadable PDF Country Commentary - Recipe for success
The president of the Thai Tanning Industry Association, Pranee Kuruvelukorn, says leather is like cooking, with each part of the world having its preferred ingredients and traditional ways of preparing things. Thailand’s is a recipe for success, she says.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2017
Downloadable PDF Cheaney’s customers are spoilt for choice
Men’s footwear brand Joseph Cheaney has launched a customisation initiative with 1.2 million possible permutations, giving customers the chance to own a truly unique pair of handcrafted shoes.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2016
Downloadable PDF Cogitations, the New Year and Zorro
What is the hide market going to do in 2017? What is the direction and why? Regular columnist David Peters has consulted with industry insiders in almost 20 countries to find the answers.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2016
Downloadable PDF Cogitations, the New Year and Zorro
What is the hide market going to do in 2017? What is the direction and why? Regular columnist David Peters has consulted with industry insiders in almost 20 countries to find the answers.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2016
Downloadable PDF Cogitations, the New Year and Zorro
What is the hide market going to do in 2017? What is the direction and why? Regular columnist David Peters has consulted with industry insiders in almost 20 countries to find the answers.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2016
Downloadable PDF ReVeal – the Dutch veal and calfskin industry opens its doors
Leather chemicals manufacturer Stahl hosted a one-day event called ReVeal last November. The aim was to give finished product brands up-to-date information about transparency and traceability in the leather supply chain, with the focus firmly on Dutch calf leather.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2016
Downloadable PDF Serious about leather - serious about sustainability
Dr Matthias Halusa, global vice-president of BASF’s leather chemicals business unit, reflects on his first six months working with tanners around the globe. He says he’s impressed by how serious the leather industry is about sustainability.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2016
Downloadable PDF Malawi blues
African economies, in spite of their well-advertised strategies, in spite of all the development aid that is put at their disposal, are hand to mouth. We live today and when tomorrow comes, we will see. In the real world it’s the results that count, not the number of participants in a workshop.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2016
Downloadable PDF Regional Commentary - Stability in the face of uncertainty
One of a series of challenges to the established world order in 2016 was the result of a referendum in the United Kingdom in June, which means the country will leave the European Union after almost 45 years. Six months on from the vote, the leather industry is trying to maintain a business-as-usual stance on the one hand while also attempting to achieve clarity on what the future will hold.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2016
Downloadable PDF Only organic leather will do
When Norwegian leathergoods brand Hvrmnnsn decided it wanted to bring out a luxury tote bag in certified organic leather it found “the obvious choice” of partner in Swedish tanner and leathergoods manufacturer Tärnsjö Garveri.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2016
Downloadable PDF Only organic leather will do
When Norwegian leathergoods brand Hvrmnnsn decided it wanted to bring out a luxury tote bag in certified organic leather it found “the obvious choice” of partner in Swedish tanner and leathergoods manufacturer Tärnsjö Garveri.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2016
Downloadable PDF Domestic growth beyond dispute in China and India
Focus on: Footwear. Ongoing economic growth in China and India should be good news for the footwear industry, at least domestically, in both countries.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2016
Downloadable PDF Reality check
After a sustained drive these past six years, light vehicle sales are losing traction and the long and winding road is now causing manufacturers to decelerate. North American volumes have peaked with their 2015 highs and while the proportion both of SUV and luxury cars has grown, overall the numbers are slowing. However, there will continue to be demand for leather from automotive companies, just that, having been operating in the fast lane for some time, growth looks likely to slow down.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2016
Downloadable PDF Reality check
After a sustained drive these past six years, light vehicle sales are losing traction and the long and winding road is now causing manufacturers to decelerate. North American volumes have peaked with their 2015 highs and while the proportion both of SUV and luxury cars has grown, overall the numbers are slowing. However, there will continue to be demand for leather from automotive companies, just that, having been operating in the fast lane for some time, growth looks likely to slow down.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2016
Downloadable PDF End of an era
Focus on: Footwear. Stuart Weitzman is to step down as creative director of his eponymous brand as Coach begins to stamp its mark on the brand it purchased in 2015.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2016
Downloadable PDF Leather shoes an endangered species
Focus on: Footwear. Not long ago, few would have argued that any material other than leather was the best option for shoe uppers. Now the notion frequently is being challenged, on technical, cost and environmental grounds and footwear’s share of global leather production has declined from around 65% in 2009 to nearer 55% today. There is work for tanners and the wider leather industry to do to preserve a relationship that has endured for thousands of years.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2016
Downloadable PDF Keep it in the family
Focus on: Footwear. Family-run business Horween Leather Company has been tanning leather for over 100 years. It has developed strong relationships with several footwear brands who use its leather to add a touch of luxury to their products.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2016
Downloadable PDF India: a shoo-in for leather footwear?
Focus on: Footwear. With several German footwear companies now choosing to manufacture their leather shoes in India, World Leather examines whether the country is capable of rising to the challenge.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2016
Downloadable PDF The secrets of the rue Marbeuf
Focus on: Footwear. A workshop that luxury shoe brand Berluti set up in the rue Marbeuf in the heart of Paris in the 1940s is still the place that brand’s most discerning (and patient) customers go to for handcrafted bespoke shoes.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2016
Downloadable PDF A revamped industry
Focus on: Footwear. A senior figure in the industry in Spain has said changes in the footwear supply chain are revolutionising the way the industry works. Five years from now, he warns, the industry will be unrecognisable; the new ways companies make and sell shoes are set to have a big impact. Tanneries supplying the footwear producers will need to be aware of the possible changes in the supply chain.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2016
Downloadable PDF Hard times
The going is really tough. Press releases of many national leather associations complain that business is bad. Hide and skin exporters and tanneries are having a very tough time. In spite of reducing their prices they still have great difficulty finding a market for their products.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2016
Downloadable PDF Made in Italy, 100%
Leathergoods manufacturers are among those who have benefited from the worldwide success of the ‘Made in Italy’ label. But it turns out that some bags are more ‘Made in Italy’ than others.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2016
Downloadable PDF Via La Moda breathes new life into exotic leather
Via La Moda, a South Africa-based manufacturer of handbags made from ostrich, crocodile and python skin, keeps a respect for leather at the centre of everything it does.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2016
Downloadable PDF Via La Moda breathes new life into exotic leather
Via La Moda, a South Africa-based manufacturer of handbags made from ostrich, crocodile and python skin, keeps a respect for leather at the centre of everything it does.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2016
Downloadable PDF Changing of the guard at Burberry
Burberry has completed a significant reshuffle of its management team. The changes, which include the naming of Marco Gobbetti as its new CEO, are the result of an ongoing “strategic review” of the business conducted in response to disappointing financial results.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2016
Downloadable PDF Slumber party
The wave of insularity that seems to be sweeping the world at the moment could perhaps, in time, lead to countries re-establishing their own tanneries and finished product factories on the back of a new ‘buy local’ movement.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2016
Downloadable PDF On home soil
There is much talk of ‘in-sourcing’, bringing the manufacture of finished goods back to brands’ home markets, but in the last few years, luxury group Hermès has quietly gone beyond just talking about it and has opened several new leathergoods factories in France.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2016
Downloadable PDF Kering’s unfair burden on leather
A report in which luxury group Kering assesses progress against its own sustainability targets carries mixed news. Some of the work the group has done is excellent, and its offer to share its findings with the rest of the industry is admirable, but however it places far too great a share of its carbon footprint on leather.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2016
Downloadable PDF Savoir-faire laid bare
Luxury leathergoods brands owe their success to the army of artisans who use their skill and know-how to create beautiful bags and other products. Most of the time, their hard work takes place out of the spotlight and away from the public eye. However, as this article shows, at least two major luxury groups have taken steps recently to give their craftsmen and women some richly deserved recognition.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2016
Downloadable PDF New spirit of unity
Italy’s national tanning industry association, UNIC, appears to have started out on a new footing under president Gianni Russo. A new air of unity, of positivity and of commitment to the development of the industry, domestically and internationally, was in evidence at the 2016 UNIC Assembly.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2016
Downloadable PDF Not ‘perfect’, but beautiful
Thanks to growing demand for authenticity, simplicity, naturalness and honesty, trends experts believe consumers are on the point of accepting that the rugged look of lightly finished leather is beautiful, ‘imperfections’ included.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2016
Downloadable PDF Peanuts and monkeys
The leather industry is again going through a crisis period, so tanners are complaining even more than usual. The periods between ups and downs are becoming shorter so when previously a crisis period lasted a year or two and the recovery from the crisis 10 years, now the crisis period remains the same but the recovery period is shorter. Everywhere production is down and in some countries, like Pakistan and Bangladesh, as low as 30%-50% of the normal capacity.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2016
Downloadable PDF Times are tough for luxury brands
Several of Europe’s top luxury fashion brands have blamed a drop in tourists visiting the region for a slowdown in their revenues. World Leather examines if the statistics back up this theory.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2016
Downloadable PDF Spyker places highvalue on leather
Luxury automobile manufacturer Spyker presented its latest offering to the super sportscar market, the C8 Preliator, at the 2016 Geneva International Motor Show. The Dutch company makes the bold claim that the interior of its new model features the “highest-quality leather available in the market”.
World Leather - June/July 2016
Downloadable PDF Spyker places highvalue on leather
Luxury automobile manufacturer Spyker presented its latest offering to the super sportscar market, the C8 Preliator, at the 2016 Geneva International Motor Show. The Dutch company makes the bold claim that the interior of its new model features the “highest-quality leather available in the market”.
World Leather - June/July 2016
Downloadable PDF Focus on Automotive Leather: Better from Brazil
Improvements in livestock farming and in raw material handling are helping Brazilian packers produce better quality raw material, argues JBS Couros’s Guilherme Motta. He believes it could be time for automotive companies to make more use of Brazilian hides.
World Leather - June/July 2016
Downloadable PDF Focus on Automotive Leather: Cars claim a bigger shareas the cake gets smaller
Industry expert David Peters says the producers of automotive leather are enjoying some of the best times in their history at the moment, but that securing the ongoing availability of the right kind of raw material to keep meeting OEMs’ needs is a challenge the industry must face up to.
World Leather - June/July 2016
Downloadable PDF Focus on Automotive Leather: A bold decision pays off
Arzignano-based tanning company Gruppo Dani made no automotive leather until 2009. Now customers in the automotive industry consume 50% of all the leather the group produces.
World Leather - June/July 2016
Downloadable PDF Focus on Automotive Leather: BRIC growth is only half the story
Automotive brands pinning hopes for growth on the four BRIC economies that were,once, among the fastest-developing in the world need to think again.
World Leather - June/July 2016
Downloadable PDF Focus on Automotive Leather:Change is coming,whether we like it or not
Leather chemicals company Stahl believes that the automotive industry is about to experience more change than it has done in 100 years, with an enhanced importance for car interiors as one of the most significant developments.
World Leather - June/July 2016
Downloadable PDF Comment. David Peters: “I’ve fallen and I can’t get up” The market is old and tired
Consumers have grown so used to choosing shoes based on photographs on a website, they may “no longer connect with the sensory aspects of leather”. This has led to a situation in which what the shoe feels like comes a distant second to what it looks like, and touching and feeling the product before buying is no longer necessary. This has made it easier for brands to“de-content leather from footwear”. Profit margin is an important factor, too, of course. The record-setting hide prices of 2014 have caused leather to lose a meaningful segment of theshoe industry and it is doubtful that this sector will return any time soon.
World Leather - June/July 2016
Downloadable PDF Comment. David Peters: “I’ve fallen and I can’t get up” The market is old and tired
Consumers have grown so used to choosing shoes based on photographs on a website, they may “no longer connect with the sensory aspects of leather”. This has led to a situation in which what the shoe feels like comes a distant second to what it looks like, and touching and feeling the product before buying is no longer necessary. This has made it easier for brands to“de-content leather from footwear”. Profit margin is an important factor, too, of course. The record-setting hide prices of 2014 have caused leather to lose a meaningful segment of theshoe industry and it is doubtful that this sector will return any time soon.
World Leather - June/July 2016
Downloadable PDF Focus on Automotive Leather: Car interiors, a new world
Automotive industry expert Professor Ferdinand Dudenhöffer believes the industry hasa bright future and that suppliers of materials for automotive interiors are poised totake up one of the most important positions in the entire car supply chain.
World Leather - June/July 2016
Downloadable PDF Focus on Automotive Leather: Leather cutting “two industrial revolutions” behind the times
Speaking at the 2016 Automotive Leather conference that his company, a specialist provider of automated leather cutting technology, organised in Bordeaux in April, Roy Shurling, Director of Lectra North America, said he believes leather cutting is “two industrial revolutions back”.
World Leather - June/July 2016
Downloadable PDF SLTC 119th Annual Conference
The 119th Annual Conference of the Society of Leather Technologists and Chemists (SLTC) was held at the University of Northampton on 23rd April. This was followed in the evening by the SLTC Annual Dinner Dance.
World Leather - June/July 2016
Downloadable PDF Comment. Sam Setter: The Ansari vision
This article views things from a positive point of view on Bangladesh. As you may have read over last month the first tanneries are preparing to move to the new industrial area bytransferring old machines from Hazaribagh to Savar. The most important factor for the tanners, whom it would bedifficult to describe as modern industrialists, is that whateveris done should cost as little as possible; this is their view,rather than seeing the shift as an opportunity to start fromscratch and to start with a clean slate.
World Leather - June/July 2016
Downloadable PDF Comment. Sam Setter: The Ansari vision
This article views things from a positive point of view on Bangladesh. As you may have read over last month the first tanneries are preparing to move to the new industrial area bytransferring old machines from Hazaribagh to Savar. The most important factor for the tanners, whom it would bedifficult to describe as modern industrialists, is that whateveris done should cost as little as possible; this is their view,rather than seeing the shift as an opportunity to start fromscratch and to start with a clean slate.
World Leather - June/July 2016
Downloadable PDF Comment. Sam Setter: The Ansari vision
This article views things from a positive point of view on Bangladesh. As you may have read over last month the first tanneries are preparing to move to the new industrial area bytransferring old machines from Hazaribagh to Savar. The most important factor for the tanners, whom it would bedifficult to describe as modern industrialists, is that whateveris done should cost as little as possible; this is their view,rather than seeing the shift as an opportunity to start fromscratch and to start with a clean slate.
World Leather - June/July 2016
Downloadable PDF Focus on Automotive Leather: Surface tension
The car interiors of the future will have to offer robust, high-tech-enabled surfaces that are attractive to look at and pleasant to come into contact with.Tanners must prepare to produce leather that can meet these requirements.
World Leather - June/July 2016
Downloadable PDF Focus on Automotive Leather: Volkswagen “debacle” can help the leather industry
An expert on automotive market research, Dr Axel Sprenger, has said he thinks the best way for the automotive leather industry to secure a successful future for itself is to redouble its efforts to make the leather that goes into cars as natural as possible.
World Leather - June/July 2016
Downloadable PDF Furniture for the future
Bavarian furniture manufacturer Bru¨hl & Sippold has won more than 60 national and international design awards. A twin passion for quality leather and respecting the planet is at the heart of the company. Through a combination of skillful craftspeople and high-quality materials, it aspires to find a balance between style and sustainability.
World Leather - Apr/May 2016
Downloadable PDF Furniture for the future
Bavarian furniture manufacturer Bru¨hl & Sippold has won more than 60 national and international design awards. A twin passion for quality leather and respecting the planet is at the heart of the company. Through a combination of skillful craftspeople and high-quality materials, it aspires to find a balance between style and sustainability.
World Leather - Apr/May 2016
Downloadable PDF Metamorphosis
The recent narrative continues to emphasise the cause and effect of high hide prices: it is the move to alternative substrates of major shoe brand, which feeds assumptions that leather has become overpriced for the marketplace. The demands of the ‘athleisure’ trend have not helped; the growth big footwear groups are reporting has come mostly from casual shoes made from canvas.
World Leather - Apr/May 2016
Downloadable PDF Metamorphosis
The recent narrative continues to emphasise the cause and effect of high hide prices: it is the move to alternative substrates of major shoe brand, which feeds assumptions that leather has become overpriced for the marketplace. The demands of the ‘athleisure’ trend have not helped; the growth big footwear groups are reporting has come mostly from casual shoes made from canvas.
World Leather - Apr/May 2016
Downloadable PDF Metamorphosis
The recent narrative continues to emphasise the cause and effect of high hide prices: it is the move to alternative substrates of major shoe brand, which feeds assumptions that leather has become overpriced for the marketplace. The demands of the ‘athleisure’ trend have not helped; the growth big footwear groups are reporting has come mostly from casual shoes made from canvas.
World Leather - Apr/May 2016
Downloadable PDF Sensible or senseless standards - that is the question
The world is changing and the requirements of consumers change accordingly, not just for the product itself, which is dictated by ‘big fashion’ anyway, but also for the materials that go into the product and how it is made. We often talk about what is generally referred to in a wider sense as corporate social responsibility (CSR). This encompasses traceability, animal welfare, proper treatment of workers, environmental impact and safety of the product. With regards to leather, this is obviously very much related to the chemicals that are used in tannage, finishing and production.
World Leather - Apr/May 2016
Downloadable PDF Sensible or senseless standards - that is the question
The world is changing and the requirements of consumers change accordingly, not just for the product itself, which is dictated by ‘big fashion’ anyway, but also for the materials that go into the product and how it is made. We often talk about what is generally referred to in a wider sense as corporate social responsibility (CSR). This encompasses traceability, animal welfare, proper treatment of workers, environmental impact and safety of the product. With regards to leather, this is obviously very much related to the chemicals that are used in tannage, finishing and production.
World Leather - Apr/May 2016
Downloadable PDF Sensible or senseless standards - that is the question
The world is changing and the requirements of consumers change accordingly, not just for the product itself, which is dictated by ‘big fashion’ anyway, but also for the materials that go into the product and how it is made. We often talk about what is generally referred to in a wider sense as corporate social responsibility (CSR). This encompasses traceability, animal welfare, proper treatment of workers, environmental impact and safety of the product. With regards to leather, this is obviously very much related to the chemicals that are used in tannage, finishing and production.
World Leather - Apr/May 2016
Downloadable PDF U-turn in car concepts
Stahl has lent its know-how to a driverless car design by Swiss company Rinspeed that showcases innovative technologies and debuts glow-in-the-dark leather.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2016
Downloadable PDF U-turn in car concepts
Stahl has lent its know-how to a driverless car design by Swiss company Rinspeed that showcases innovative technologies and debuts glow-in-the-dark leather.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2016
Downloadable PDF Sobriety
Regular leatherbiz columnist David Peters makes it clear that, while last year was one of the best in a long time for automotive tanners (some of whom are likely to have to expand production), a malaise continues to hang over the leather industry as a whole because of the move towards synthetic materials among many footwear producers.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2016
Downloadable PDF Sobriety
Regular leatherbiz columnist David Peters makes it clear that, while last year was one of the best in a long time for automotive tanners (some of whom are likely to have to expand production), a malaise continues to hang over the leather industry as a whole because of the move towards synthetic materials among many footwear producers.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2016
Downloadable PDF RSL, ZDHC and the brands
Leather chemicals manufacturer Lanxess ran a successful two-day seminar in Cologne in January, offering representatives of a wide range of finished product brands detailed information and in-depth discussion on the subject of how restricted substance lists are affecting the production of leather.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2016
Downloadable PDF Somalia’s growing livestock sector reports record exports
With help from the FAO, the country will focus on its leather industry to add more value domestically.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2016
Downloadable PDF Somalia’s growing livestock sector reports record exports
With help from the FAO, the country will focus on its leather industry to add more value domestically.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2016
Downloadable PDF India sets an ambitious goal
The Indian government has the leather sector an ambitious target of increasing turnover to $27 billion by 2020, up from around $12 billion last year, of which $6.5 billion came from exports
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2016
Downloadable PDF India sets an ambitious goal
The Indian government has the leather sector an ambitious target of increasing turnover to $27 billion by 2020, up from around $12 billion last year, of which $6.5 billion came from exports
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2016
Downloadable PDF Bangladesh: a view from the ground
We are delighted to welcome as a new, regular columnist well known industry commentator Sam Setter, who will be writing exclusively in World Leather from now on.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2016
Downloadable PDF Power play
Irish designer Úna Burke uses vegetable-tanned leather to create eye-catching sculptures and accessories that have earned her an army of celebrity fans.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2015
Downloadable PDF Power play
Irish designer Úna Burke uses vegetable-tanned leather to create eye-catching sculptures and accessories that have earned her an army of celebrity fans.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2015
Downloadable PDF Predictions for 2016
It’s customary for commentators to offer predictions at the start of a new year. Regular leatherbiz columnist David Peters did just that in the blog section of World Leather’s partner website at the end of 2015. This is an edited version of his account of what is likely to happen in the hide and leather industry in the course of this year and launches a new, regular comment section in World Leather.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2015
Downloadable PDF The future of European leather
COTANCE, the leather industry’s representative body to the European Commission, spent 2015 looking in detail at what the European leather industry might look like in 2025. Working with its “social partner”, trade union organisation industriAll, it held four seminars in four different countries. Each seminar examined a different aspect of the industry of the future. This article offers a summary of the main themes to emerge from the discussions.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2015
Downloadable PDF Time for testing to have one voice
Testing body SGS wants to bring a new initiative called Tiered Testing to the leather and footwear sector. It insists that suppliers’ necessity to comply with regulations and restricted substance lists (RSLs) is only going to intensify in years to come. As there is nowhere to hide, it wants companies at all stages of the supply chain to share the compliance burden.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2015
Downloadable PDF Haglöfs extends sustainability aims
The brand has set the bar high so there can be no accusations of greenwashing, and has introduced a set of criteria for footwear to carry its Take Care label.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2015
Downloadable PDF Haglöfs extends sustainability aims
The brand has set the bar high so there can be no accusations of greenwashing, and has introduced a set of criteria for footwear to carry its Take Care label.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2015
Downloadable PDF Regional Commentary: China 2015
The China Leather Industry Association is positive about the industry’s future despite slowing growth; footwear consultant Peter Mangione tells us what effects the Trans-Pacific Partnership might have on shoe trade; and chemicals company Biosk explains a ‘revolutionary’ process for managing wastewater.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2015
Downloadable PDF Regional Commentary: China 2015
The China Leather Industry Association is positive about the industry’s future despite slowing growth; footwear consultant Peter Mangione tells us what effects the Trans-Pacific Partnership might have on shoe trade; and chemicals company Biosk explains a ‘revolutionary’ process for managing wastewater.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2015
Downloadable PDF Global industry meets for Milan congress
On behalf of the International Council of Tanners (ICT), Italy’s tanning industry association, UNIC, organised an industry congress in Milan in September. Under the title Trends And Future Challenges, the event attracted some 400 delegates from around the world.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2015
Downloadable PDF Kangaroos and alligators
L­­­isa Sorrell makes probably the most striking cowboy boots that money can buy, and yet this came about purely by chance.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2015
Downloadable PDF Kangaroos and alligators
L­­­isa Sorrell makes probably the most striking cowboy boots that money can buy, and yet this came about purely by chance.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2015
Downloadable PDF Why US hide export figures were wrong for years
All markets need information and one of the most frequently updated sources of information in the global leather industry is the data on cattle slaughter and hide trade that the US issues. For years, however, the statistics relating to the volume of hides and skins US packers and traders export have been flawed. This article examines where those numbers went wrong and what the US Hide, Skin and Leather Association has done to put matters on a firmer footing.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2015
Downloadable PDF Why US hide export figures were wrong for years
All markets need information and one of the most frequently updated sources of information in the global leather industry is the data on cattle slaughter and hide trade that the US issues. For years, however, the statistics relating to the volume of hides and skins US packers and traders export have been flawed. This article examines where those numbers went wrong and what the US Hide, Skin and Leather Association has done to put matters on a firmer footing.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2015
Downloadable PDF Wrap artists
With projections that the automotive industry will consume an increasing volume of leather in the next five years, its suppliers everywhere will have to be ready. Faurecia’s specialist leather cutting plant in Slovakia believes Europe will remain a key part of the automotive supply picture and that it will be able to respond quickly.
World Leather - June/July 2015
Downloadable PDF Wrap artists
With projections that the automotive industry will consume an increasing volume of leather in the next five years, its suppliers everywhere will have to be ready. Faurecia’s specialist leather cutting plant in Slovakia believes Europe will remain a key part of the automotive supply picture and that it will be able to respond quickly.
World Leather - June/July 2015
Downloadable PDF Leather companies hope to capitalise on ‘Made in Britain’ ethos
A raft of UK-based finished goods start-ups suggest demand is there – but can the tanning industry benefit, or does business go elsewhere?
World Leather - June/July 2015
Downloadable PDF Fashion school project keeps young designers in touch with Tuscany
Industry body the Consorzio Vera Pelle Italiana Conciata al Vegetale became concerned about a lack of knowledge of Tuscany’s vegetable-tanned leather among designers and, four years ago, launched a special project to bring students and teachers from design schools around the world to the region for one week each spring in the hope of increasing awareness and appreciation of the local leather industry’s trademark product.
World Leather - June/July 2015
Downloadable PDF Fashion school project keeps young designers in touch with Tuscany
Industry body the Consorzio Vera Pelle Italiana Conciata al Vegetale became concerned about a lack of knowledge of Tuscany’s vegetable-tanned leather among designers and, four years ago, launched a special project to bring students and teachers from design schools around the world to the region for one week each spring in the hope of increasing awareness and appreciation of the local leather industry’s trademark product.
World Leather - June/July 2015
Downloadable PDF Boot brand identifies with Terracare leather
When high-end Swedish outdoor footwear brand Lundhags heard about Terracare leather from Josef Heinen, it identified immediately with the concept it aims to put across. You can make high-quality leather and care for the environment at the same time, and you can take pride in putting this message across to retailers and consumers.
World Leather - Apr/May 2015
Downloadable PDF Revision of the Quality Management System ISO 9001:2015
by Ulrich Wegner, Head of the Certification Body, TÜV SÜD Management Service GmbH, Germany. The revised ISO 9001 offers more flexibility regarding process documentation as a part of the management system. This applies to the documentation of management, strategy and core processes as well as support processes such as maintenance and qualification of persons.
World Leather - Apr/May 2015
Downloadable PDF Dutch boost for Mongolia’s leather sector
A new project brings together tanners, chemicals, finished goods manufacturers and brands in a bid to create a transparent, sustainable supply chain in a re-emerging industry. Fashion designer Hans Ubbink has put his weight behind the initiative, which is hoped might become a blueprint for others.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2015
Downloadable PDF Dutch boost for Mongolia’s leather sector
A new project brings together tanners, chemicals, finished goods manufacturers and brands in a bid to create a transparent, sustainable supply chain in a re-emerging industry. Fashion designer Hans Ubbink has put his weight behind the initiative, which is hoped might become a blueprint for others.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2015
Downloadable PDF Beast to Beauty: Out of the ordinary
Practically all the leather in the world comes from animals raised for meat: cows, sheep, pigs and goats. There are exceptions and some of them make the industry substantially more colourful.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2014
Downloadable PDF Beast to Beauty: Out of the ordinary
Practically all the leather in the world comes from animals raised for meat: cows, sheep, pigs and goats. There are exceptions and some of them make the industry substantially more colourful.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2014
Downloadable PDF Luxury in the leather industry
London-based designer Bill Amberg, a renowned champion of leather, was one of the speakers at the 2014 Sustainability Forum, organised by Brazilian Tanning Industry Association, CICB, in Novo Hamburgo. This opinion piece is based on the talk he gave at the event.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2014
Downloadable PDF Committed to calf
Paris-based leathergoods brand Maison Thomas is small enough to feel the pain of recent reductions in the availability and increase in price of calfskins and calf leather, but its commitment to the material it has chosen for its high-end bags and purses remains unshaken.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2014
Downloadable PDF All China Leather Exhibition 2014
This year’s All China Leather Exhibition (ACLE) takes place in Shanghai from September 3 until September 5, drawing exhibitors and visitors from all parts of the global leather industry.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2014
Downloadable PDF Maasai Project is the pride of Pikolinos
A chance encounter between a Maasai tribal leader and the founder of a Spanish aid agency led to footwear brand Pikolinios embarking on an inspiring corporate social responsibility project.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2014
Downloadable PDF The value of adding value
Three years ago, UK-based tanning group Pittards made no gloves, even though it has been a globally renowned supplier of gloving leather for decades. A desire to make maximum value of the sheep and bovine leather it is producing at its tannery in Ethiopia led to the setting up of its own finished product factory in the African country’s capital, Addis Ababa.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2014
Downloadable PDF Nakara holds its head high in the face of unfair criticism
A tannery in Namibia has reached agreement with its workforce following a short-lived labour dispute that became international news in July.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2014
Downloadable PDF Beast to Beauty: The scourge of counterfeiting
The fifth Beast to Beauty conference, was held in London, and addressed how cheap imitations, false labelling and fraud has a profound impact on leathergoods companies, their supply chains and consumers.
World Leather - June/July 2014
Downloadable PDF Beast to Beauty: The scourge of counterfeiting
The fifth Beast to Beauty conference, was held in London, and addressed how cheap imitations, false labelling and fraud has a profound impact on leathergoods companies, their supply chains and consumers.
World Leather - June/July 2014
Downloadable PDF Regional Commentary China: China’s roller coaster
World Leather’s Market Intelligence reports over the last six months have described in detail “one of the most confusing periods for the global hides, skins and tanning industry” that we can remember. Record hide prices until March have been curbed by the elimination of tanning capacity in Hebei province, where the Chinese government has shut down a number of tanneries deemed too polluting. The knock-on effects are rumbling through the market.
World Leather - June/July 2014
Downloadable PDF Regional Commentary China: China’s roller coaster
World Leather’s Market Intelligence reports over the last six months have described in detail “one of the most confusing periods for the global hides, skins and tanning industry” that we can remember. Record hide prices until March have been curbed by the elimination of tanning capacity in Hebei province, where the Chinese government has shut down a number of tanneries deemed too polluting. The knock-on effects are rumbling through the market.
World Leather - June/July 2014
Downloadable PDF After Latin America, the world
Colombian entrepreneur Mario Hernández launched his own clothing and leathergoods manufacturing company in the 1970s, but took a decision in 1997 to stop making good products for others and to put his own name on them. He steadily built up a chain of more than 100 stockists across the globe and has more than 60 own-brand stores. He now seeks global recognition as the Latin American luxury leathergoods brand ‘por excelencia’ and to open stores all over the world.
World Leather - Apr/May 2014
Downloadable PDF After Latin America, the world
Colombian entrepreneur Mario Hernández launched his own clothing and leathergoods manufacturing company in the 1970s, but took a decision in 1997 to stop making good products for others and to put his own name on them. He steadily built up a chain of more than 100 stockists across the globe and has more than 60 own-brand stores. He now seeks global recognition as the Latin American luxury leathergoods brand ‘por excelencia’ and to open stores all over the world.
World Leather - Apr/May 2014
Downloadable PDF Brazil’s leather sector gathers momentum
The US warns of the impact of declining herd sizes while South America weighs up shifting trade policies and hide shortages.
World Leather - Apr/May 2014
Downloadable PDF Brazil’s leather sector gathers momentum
The US warns of the impact of declining herd sizes while South America weighs up shifting trade policies and hide shortages.
World Leather - Apr/May 2014
Downloadable PDF Beast to Beauty: Manti
Manti Fashion Accessories is proud of its Kolkata roots and is making an increasing impression on export markets, but it says it has concerns about being able to continue to tap into the talent and expertise of the local workforce.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2014
Downloadable PDF Climate protection and leather
In recent years, the commitment of a company to climate protection has developed into a central competitive factor.The Verband der Deutschen Lederindustrie (Association of the German Leather Industry) recognised the need for a certification of an energy-efficient manufacturing process at a very early stage. In cooperation with the Forschungsgemeinschaft Leder and I-T-G GmbH Gomaringen, the ECO2L label for the documentation of a qualified CCF, and an energy oriented corporate policy was developed.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2014
Downloadable PDF Hide to High Street
The second edition of the UK-based conference.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2013
Downloadable PDF Hide to High Street
The second edition of the UK-based conference.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2013
Downloadable PDF Regional commentary: Europe
With the EC addressing the ‘problem of labelling’ and COTANCE calling for changes in skin trading, the industry is in a state of consultation about the optimal way forward.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2013
Downloadable PDF Regional commentary: Europe
With the EC addressing the ‘problem of labelling’ and COTANCE calling for changes in skin trading, the industry is in a state of consultation about the optimal way forward.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2013
Downloadable PDF Tanning Tech 2013
Ever more focus upon leather production engineering
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2013
Downloadable PDF Sustainability: Getting the numbers right
Many companies in all parts of the leather industry are looking at the age profile of their employees. In many instances they have a large cohort of employees who will retire between now and 2020. The demographic challenge being faced by many companies with large numbers of these people and the ongoing restructuring in the industry are just two of the current challenges creating the need for more well trained staff throughout the leather sector.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2013
Downloadable PDF Real tanneries, real life
The fourth Tannery of the Year Global Awards programme is about to start; the first of the new reports will appear in the next issue of World Leather (December 2013-January 2014). During the first three editions, we have had the privilege of seeing at very close hand the life and work of the 29 finalist tanneries in all parts of the world. This paper highlights just one example from each of their many initiatives showing corporate social responsibility (CSR) in action.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2013
Downloadable PDF Sustainable leather
Sustainability and climate change are critical issues facing the world leather industry. Energy, chemicals, salt, water and waste will all become more critical for tanners and all industries.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2013
Downloadable PDF Sustainable leather
Sustainability and climate change are critical issues facing the world leather industry. Energy, chemicals, salt, water and waste will all become more critical for tanners and all industries.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2013
Downloadable PDF Beast to Beauty conference 2013
The fourth Beast to Beauty event had ‘Eco and Creativity by Design’ as its theme. It brought together representatives from the whole leather supply chain, from tanner to designer, and culminated in a debate on the topic of the moment: leather’s carbon footprint.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2013
Downloadable PDF By royal appointment
Although it has seen its raw material costs rise almost 50% in the past three years, British leathergoods brand Ettinger is experiencing substantial growth and believes the key to its success is embracing its heritage.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2013
Downloadable PDF Personalisation drives Rolls-Royce's profits
The British luxury carmaker has seen substantial growth in the number of customers requesting customised interiors over the past few years, and now almost all vehicles encompass some kind of bespoke element.
World Leather - June/July 2013
Downloadable PDF Personalisation drives Rolls-Royce's profits
The British luxury carmaker has seen substantial growth in the number of customers requesting customised interiors over the past few years, and now almost all vehicles encompass some kind of bespoke element.
World Leather - June/July 2013
Downloadable PDF Events round-up
2nd Freiberg Leather Days: Leather up to date and 116th SLTC conference; 116th Annual conference of the Society of Leather Technologists and Chemists (SLTC); Awards of prizes and certificates, The University of Northampton, Institute for Creative Leather Technologies (ICLT); the 32nd Congress of the International Union of Leather Technologists and Chemists (IULTCS); and Beast to Beauty conference
World Leather - June/July 2013
Downloadable PDF Events round-up
2nd Freiberg Leather Days: Leather up to date and 116th SLTC conference; 116th Annual conference of the Society of Leather Technologists and Chemists (SLTC); Awards of prizes and certificates, The University of Northampton, Institute for Creative Leather Technologies (ICLT); the 32nd Congress of the International Union of Leather Technologists and Chemists (IULTCS); and Beast to Beauty conference
World Leather - June/July 2013
Downloadable PDF Events round-up
2nd Freiberg Leather Days: Leather up to date and 116th SLTC conference; 116th Annual conference of the Society of Leather Technologists and Chemists (SLTC); Awards of prizes and certificates, The University of Northampton, Institute for Creative Leather Technologies (ICLT); the 32nd Congress of the International Union of Leather Technologists and Chemists (IULTCS); and Beast to Beauty conference
World Leather - June/July 2013
Downloadable PDF Battle for a cutting edge continues
Laser-cutting technology providers Gerber Scientific and Lectra have both given detailed insights into their visions for the future. As both companies include car seat manufacturers and automotive tanneries who supply them among their customers, what these companies have to say is of importance to this niche part of the leather industry.
World Leather - June/July 2013
Downloadable PDF Consumers want leather
A recent study carried out by Eagle Ottawa suggests wealthy consumers care deeply about having leather upholstery in their cars. Its senior technical director in China, Geoffrey Thams, believes this has important consequences for the leather industry.
World Leather - June/July 2013
Downloadable PDF Consumers want leather
A recent study carried out by Eagle Ottawa suggests wealthy consumers care deeply about having leather upholstery in their cars. Its senior technical director in China, Geoffrey Thams, believes this has important consequences for the leather industry.
World Leather - June/July 2013
Downloadable PDF Achieving anti-soiling properties with automotive leathers
Stahl illustrates the complexity of designing an anti-soil and anti-stain finish that works for all the different test methods and for all different types of soiling and staining.
World Leather - June/July 2013
Downloadable PDF Syntans: improved performance for automotive leathers
The development of syntans for the use in automotive leather has been driven by two major technical requirements: improved light fastness properties and low residual monomer concentration - such as phenol and formaldehyde - within these products. As a result of chemical developments, both of these requirements can finally be met. By Jochen Ammenn, BASF, Germany.
World Leather - June/July 2013
Downloadable PDF Migration of colour into water-based finishes
For the tannery supplying the automotive and upholstery markets, an important characteristic of the dyed leather is the stability of the colour when exposed to various extremes of temperature and humidity. This applies not only to the dyed crust leather but especially to the leathers with a finishing coat, as found in the car interior. By Campbell Page, Markus Hess and Gloria Diaz TFL Ledertechnik, Germany.
World Leather - June/July 2013
Downloadable PDF Wheel of fortune
A specialist in leather for steering wheels, Andreas Kindermann, is convinced that increasing affluence in China will lead to a much higher proportion of cars there having leather-covered steering wheels.
World Leather - June/July 2013
Downloadable PDF The fall and rise of labels of origin in the EU
An unexpected turn of events in Brussels at the start of 2013 has meant the European Commission may have to backtrack on a decision to allow importers of shoes and other goods to hide the country of origin from consumers.
World Leather - Apr/May 2013
Downloadable PDF Life on the Ocean Wave
UK-based design house Redman Whiteley Dixon has created the interiors for some of the world’s largest, and most stylish, superyachts. For multi-millionaire owners, only the best will do – and that includes a liberal swathing of the finest-quality leather.
World Leather - Apr/May 2013
Downloadable PDF Beauty that’s skin deep
Leather artisans demonstrate the vast skill, time and patience that go into creating bespoke products by hand.
World Leather - Apr/May 2013
Downloadable PDF Beauty that’s skin deep
Leather artisans demonstrate the vast skill, time and patience that go into creating bespoke products by hand.
World Leather - Apr/May 2013
Downloadable PDF Water abstraction, salinity and tanneries: The Ranipet CEPT, a complete solution
A combination of reverse osmosis (RO) and evaporation/condensation has ensured that 95% of the volume of effluent entering the Ranipet CETP plant is returned to the tanners as high quality water for reuse in a massive closed loop. No liquid is discharged from the plant, and the operation has almost completely stopped the abstraction/use of potable water for leather manufacture in the district
World Leather - Apr/May 2013
Downloadable PDF Asia Update
A round-up of news and updates from all parts of Asia (excluding China) provides information on current leather supply chain issues.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2013
Downloadable PDF Leather seats on the metro
When Dubai’s Road and Transport Authority launched its metro service in 2009, it decided to put leather on the seats in its Gold Class. Even for short journeys by public transport, it wanted passengers to have access to a touch of luxury.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2013
Downloadable PDF Leather seats on the metro
When Dubai’s Road and Transport Authority launched its metro service in 2009, it decided to put leather on the seats in its Gold Class. Even for short journeys by public transport, it wanted passengers to have access to a touch of luxury.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2013
Downloadable PDF Colourfastness and ageing of leather to artificial light at high temperatures
In view of the increasingly important role of leather for many vehicle manufacturers, the testing of heat-light resistance has been examined in detail as part of an inter-laboratory round robin test, with a particular focus on the influence of humidity, the use of various lighting apparatus and the visual assessment of the results in comparison with a colorimetric instrumental assessment.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2012
Downloadable PDF Regional commentary: Africa
A growing middle class and more disposable income means luxury companies are eyeing the continent – although many are unsure of the best tactics for growth.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2012
Downloadable PDF Skills council plots path ahead
Exactly a year after its foundation, a special skills group comprising representatives of the textile, clothing and leather industries in Europe, has come up with seven recommendations for what the European Commission, national governments, education providers and manufacturers in the sector can do to enhance skills, preserve traditional know-how and create new jobs.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2012
Downloadable PDF Something special
A custom tailoring operation for customers who want something extra special in their new Porsche cars employs 35 skilled craftspeople, all with a deep knowledge of high-end leather, in Zuffenhausen, near the automotive brand’s headquarters in Stuttgart.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2012
Downloadable PDF Perplexed by Puma
The ongoing focus in the industry on carbon footprint and sustainability makes it imperative for us to consider comments in the later part of 2012 from one of the world’s most prominent athletic footwear brands, Puma, on the environmental impact of shoes with leather uppers.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2012
Downloadable PDF Relationships in the formation of hexavalent chrome: Part 2
Investigations regarding the manufacture of leather articles were carried out by the Test & Research Institute Pirmasens, where the potential influence of adhesives and heat on the formation of Chrome (VI) in leather and shoes were investigated.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2012
Downloadable PDF Innovation Part 2: Co-products and solids management
An analysis of good practice with a broad overview of how co-products associated with leather manufacture and other solids are managed.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2012
Downloadable PDF Redeveloping the economy: The footwear sector
The footwear industry is not immune to economic uncertainty and many major brands faced with ever higher factory gate prices from their principal supplier, China, coupled to greatly increased freight costs are being forced to rethink their sourcing policy.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2012
Downloadable PDF Redeveloping the economy: The leather industry
The combination of raw materials at source, business opportunity, possible non-frozen investments and apprenticeship schemes must offer a better and more sustainable future for the leather sector and young people, as well as the broader redeveloping economy.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2012
Downloadable PDF A love of fashion and a love for China
Visitors to Shanghai’s most famous thoroughfare, The Bund, will have noticed a local name among the stellar boutiques. Shiatzy Chen continues to expand across China and internationally thanks to its ability to combine Chinese culture and beauty with western fashion techniques and craftsmanship.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2012
Downloadable PDF Regional commentary: China
A growing population and thirst for luxury goods mean the Chinese market is a key focus for leathergoods and footwear companies. The government has responded with policies that aim to restructure the tanning industry, which it hopes will better position it to respond to internal needs and keep its leather exporting industry competitive
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2012
Downloadable PDF Regional commentary: China
A growing population and thirst for luxury goods mean the Chinese market is a key focus for leathergoods and footwear companies. The government has responded with policies that aim to restructure the tanning industry, which it hopes will better position it to respond to internal needs and keep its leather exporting industry competitive
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2012
Downloadable PDF The Americas: IULTCS vice-president says Latin America has a big part to play in global industry
This round-up of news and updates from all parts of the Americas serves to give insight into current leather supply chain issues in this part of the world.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2012
Downloadable PDF Beast to beauty: Leather garments for the stars
After years of designing bespoke leather jackets and jeans for discerning Hollywood celebrities, California-based fashion designer Mychael Darwin has lost nothing of his love for working with leather.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2012
Downloadable PDF Influence of humidity and temperature on leather
The effect of change in the dimensional stability of leather can be significant when subjected to changes in temperature and relative humidity. The results of the determination of these dimensional changes can vary from one laboratory to another for the same sample of leather. In order to limit possible errors, the causes attributable to the testing procedure were investigated within the framework of inter-laboratory trials.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2012
Downloadable PDF Leather lends itself to luxury
The automotive industry is a healthy market for tanners at the moment, and the higher up the luxury pyramid we look, the stronger the car companies’ commitment to leather seems to be, with iconic English brand Bentley Motors one of the best examples.
World Leather - June/July 2012
Downloadable PDF Biological nitrogen elimination with simultaneous biological sulfide oxidation
Cleaning tannery wastewater has never been a trivial task, especially for those leather manufacturers who directly discharge into surface waters. Because of the dramatic savings in water consumption that have been achieved over recent decades by Bader, the wastewater is usually highly concentrated, especially with nitrogen compounds. However, a targeted denitrification process combined with simultaneous sulfide oxidation allows the company to eliminate the nitrogen compounds from the wastewater by at least 70% and at a reasonable cost.
World Leather - June/July 2012
Downloadable PDF FILK launches a convention for the leather and tanning industry
A report on the inaugural conference organised by the Research Institute for Leather and Plastic Sheeting in Germany
World Leather - June/July 2012
Downloadable PDF Europe: luxury cars and leathergoods represent the big hope
With debt piled upon debt, austerity measures, bail-outs, concerns about social unrest and threats to the survival of the euro and even the European Union, no one can pretend the European economy is going through anything other than a crisis. We certainly live in interesting times, but, at least at the luxury end of the market, the leather sector is still enjoying strong demand.
World Leather - June/July 2012
Downloadable PDF Society of Leather Technologists and Chemists
A round-up of the SLTC 115th annual conference
World Leather - June/July 2012
Downloadable PDF Conference report: Society of Leather Technologists and Chemists South Africa
A round-up of the 61st Annual convention of the South African branch of the SLTC in Kwa-Zulu-Natal.
World Leather - June/July 2012
Downloadable PDF Beast to beauty: Leather brings Gaultier designs to life
Jean Paul Gaultier has been one of the stellar names of haute couture for more than 35 years. Between 2003 and 2010, he was design director of women’s ready-to-wear for luxury brand Hermes, with Hermes eventually owning a 45% stake in the Gaultier brand. The relationship ended when Hermes sold that part of its business, but as this article reveals, seven years at Hermes left the designer with a deep love of leather, which still influences his work today.
World Leather - Apr/May 2012
Downloadable PDF Only the best will do
Gaitonde is a name with great renown, not just in India, but in the international footwear industry. We take a look at the company, from humble beginnings in the 1920s through to its current production and direction.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2012
Downloadable PDF Deck the walls
Leather wall panels are the latest thing to hit the luxury interiors market. Designer Genevieve Bennett uses thick leather hides to make beautiful floral and geometric pieces for the high-end home.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2012
Downloadable PDF State of the global footwear industry
As tanners look ahead to what 2012 might bring, we review the situation in different parts of the world of the footwear industry, which is still the biggest consumer of leather.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2011
Downloadable PDF Patrick Cox is back with a bang
Italian footwear brand Geox asked former high-profile shoe designer Patrick Cox if he knew anyone it could work with to build up its presence in the UK market. It didn’t have to look too far.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2011
Downloadable PDF Raw deal
Weather events and the world economy are putting pressure on tanners in The Americas. Hide prices are high, material is scarce, in spite of drought conditions in some regions pushing cattle towards the abattoirs early.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2011
Downloadable PDF Buyer's view: Spending spree
Tanners producing leather for aircraft upholstery have a series of stringent standards to meet and demanding customers to satisfy, but a key moment in the aircraft industry’s economic cycle could be approaching and, with the emphasis on making aeroplanes as sustainable as possible, longer-lasting leather seats may be about to enjoy a new surge in popularity.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2011
Downloadable PDF Regional commentary: The Americas
Weather events and the world economy are putting pressure on tanners in The Americas. Hide prices are high, material is scarce, in spite of drought conditions in some regions pushing cattle towards the abattoirs early.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2011
Downloadable PDF Northampton celebrates leather heritage
A series of recent events in and around Northampton paid tribute to the city’s status as the UK’s principal centre for leather teaching and training.
World Leather - Jun/Jul 2011
Downloadable PDF BMW warns South African leather suppliers
High-end automotive brand BMW has warned suppliers to its Rosslyn plant in South Africa, including tanners, that it will look outside the country for alternative sources of material and components if performance does not improve.
World Leather - Jun/Jul 2011
Downloadable PDF BMW warns South African leather suppliers
High-end automotive brand BMW has warned suppliers to its Rosslyn plant in South Africa, including tanners, that it will look outside the country for alternative sources of material and components if performance does not improve.
World Leather - Jun/Jul 2011
Downloadable PDF Ups and downs for Africa
Africa’s wealth in natural resources is attracting admirers and investors from all parts of the world. Hides and skins are among the raw materials coveted. In the case of Kenya, the government wants to set up new tanneries and create jobs and added value. Chinese investors are making their mark in other parts of the continent.
World Leather - Jun/Jul 2011
Downloadable PDF A void within the global leather sector: Closure of Lederinstitut Gerberschule Reutlingen
Over the last 20 years many organisations that performed fundamental research into issues faced by the leather industry have ceased to exist, but LGR continued to cover this vital role. Now it, too, is to close.
World Leather - Jun/Jul 2011
Downloadable PDF A void within the global leather sector: Closure of Lederinstitut Gerberschule Reutlingen
Over the last 20 years many organisations that performed fundamental research into issues faced by the leather industry have ceased to exist, but LGR continued to cover this vital role. Now it, too, is to close.
World Leather - Jun/Jul 2011
Downloadable PDF Buyer’s View: Close to home
Luxury leathergoods brands are flying high, but they need to keep paying attention to how their products are made and not just what they look like on the catwalk. Bottega Veneta is achieving a good balance between the two. Growing impressively across the global market, the company is staying unfailingly faithful to its roots in the Veneto region of northern Italy
World Leather - Apr/May 2011
Downloadable PDF Regional Commentary: China - The lap of luxury
China is now officially the second biggest economy in the world and is on course to be the third biggest for luxury goods within the next five years. Growth in the consumption of leathergoods, shoes and cars and furniture with leather upholstery is strong.
World Leather - Apr/May 2011
Downloadable PDF Hair styling
The two entrepreneurs from São Paulo who founded specialist leather design consultancy 4 Stagioni have toured major exhibitions this spring to show off their Sagarana collection of leathergoods. The bags in the collection combine the panache of Brazil’s biggest city with elements of the country’s wilder side.
World Leather - Apr/May 2011
Downloadable PDF Stepping out
Warm tones of brown, khaki, camel and deep red are all key colours for the autumn-winter 2011 women’s footwear season. We can also expect to see some interesting contrasts, says expert Claudia Schulz.
World Leather - Apr/May 2011
Downloadable PDF The Royal Wedding: leather highlights
The royal wedding in April was surely the biggest fashion event of 2011, and with this in mind, we consider some of the shoes, bags and gloves worn by the guests.
World Leather - Apr/May 2011
Downloadable PDF Buyer’s view: organically grown
The transition from ‘eco’ to ‘organic’ is one that a number of consumer products appear to be attempting. But can the same be said for leather, and if so, what are the benefits of ‘organic leather’?
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2011
Downloadable PDF Bill Amberg’s passion for leather remains undiminished
Few ambassadors for leather are as passionate about using the material in his products as luxury handmade leathergoods designer Bill Amberg.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2011
Downloadable PDF Bill Amberg’s passion for leather remains undiminished
Few ambassadors for leather are as passionate about using the material in his products as luxury handmade leathergoods designer Bill Amberg.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2011
Downloadable PDF Stone age inspiration
In 1991, the mummified body of a man was found in the Otzal Alps above Austria. He was carbon dated to 3,300 BC and the shoes the shoes he was wearing are the inspiration behind a new footwear brand.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2011
Downloadable PDF Regional Commentary: Asia, excluding China
A series of news-led articles that combine to give an up-to-date snapshot of the situation in the leather industry across the region.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2011
Downloadable PDF China announces change at ACLE
The focus at the 2010 All China Leather Exhibition in Shanghai in September was very much on the host nation, with the announcement of important future changes to the leather production industry in China.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2010
Downloadable PDF There is nothing new in high-heel shoes
The Bata Shoe Museum in Toronto has just concluded an exhibition that looked in the closest possible detail at the development of the high-heel shoe from its origins in the chopines that became all the rage among affluent women in Renaissance Italy and Spain to the moment when it became a footwear choice for women only.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2010
Downloadable PDF Special team reviews its leather sourcing policy
Footwear experts are working in a special unit at Toronto’s Sunnybrook Health Sciences Centre to make customised shoes for patients. One of the team’s biggest problems is finding the right leather at the right price.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2010
Downloadable PDF Special team reviews its leather sourcing policy
Footwear experts are working in a special unit at Toronto’s Sunnybrook Health Sciences Centre to make customised shoes for patients. One of the team’s biggest problems is finding the right leather at the right price.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2010
Downloadable PDF In defence of the good name of leather
Competition is healthy because it concentrates the mind, but why should the leather industry have to put up with companies promoting synthetic substitutes by misusing and abusing the good name that leather has spent thousands of years building up?
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2010
Downloadable PDF Kotai, a tannery with an unusual take on leather
The Taiwanese tannery uses chemical-free dyes including one derived from leaves taken from a special tree in the mountain areas of Taiwan.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2010
Downloadable PDF Magical leathergoods at the Harry Potter exhibition
Warner Bros had special leathergoods and footwear considerations to take into account when setting up its itinerant Harry Potter: The Exhibition event.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2010
Downloadable PDF In with the old as well as the new
Germany-based Otto Kessler has always looked for ways of bringing a modern touch to the ancient art of glove making.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2010
Downloadable PDF In with the old as well as the new
Germany-based Otto Kessler has always looked for ways of bringing a modern touch to the ancient art of glove making.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2010
Downloadable PDF SLTC Conference 2010
Six papers were presented in at the 113th annual conference of the UK’s Society of Leather Technologists and Chemists, “Tanning the Toyota way”.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2010
Downloadable PDF Combining Heritage and Business
The Tusting family has a long and continuing association with the UK leather industry but, as the tanneries of England disappeared in recent decades, the family decided to use its heritage to develop a new business model.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2010
Downloadable PDF Beast to Beauty conference 2010
Industry experts from all stages of the leather supply chain took to the stand to share their insights with delegates, but the main focus throughout was on producing leather in a more sustainable way.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2010
Downloadable PDF Beast to Beauty conference 2010
Industry experts from all stages of the leather supply chain took to the stand to share their insights with delegates, but the main focus throughout was on producing leather in a more sustainable way.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2010
Downloadable PDF Green shoots
The Scottish Leather Group has opened a new thermal energy plant at Bridge of Weir, while Ecco has enhanced its reputation for sustainable business development by launching a new Flesh to Fuel programme, in which it uses biofuel from fleshings to lower its carbon footprint. Both are examples of new green initiatives in the leather industry.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2010
Downloadable PDF Green shoots
The Scottish Leather Group has opened a new thermal energy plant at Bridge of Weir, while Ecco has enhanced its reputation for sustainable business development by launching a new Flesh to Fuel programme, in which it uses biofuel from fleshings to lower its carbon footprint. Both are examples of new green initiatives in the leather industry.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2010
Downloadable PDF Positive outlook for Europe’s luxury brands
The economic downturn has had a much greater impact on the manufacturing sector than governments across the globe would care to admit. However, while many economies in Europe are still struggling, or have hit new stumbling blocks, European leather and leathergoods manufacturers are experiencing something of a reprieve.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2010
Downloadable PDF Positive outlook for Europe’s luxury brands
The economic downturn has had a much greater impact on the manufacturing sector than governments across the globe would care to admit. However, while many economies in Europe are still struggling, or have hit new stumbling blocks, European leather and leathergoods manufacturers are experiencing something of a reprieve.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2010
Downloadable PDF Anti-dumping: the beginning of the end
Manufacturers in Europe have long complained that their counterparts in China and Vietnam receive help that allows them to put a lower export price on the shoes they make than the price consumers pay for the same products in their domestic markets.
World Leather - Jun/Jul 2010
Downloadable PDF The deerest of designs
Designer Jo Kettle uses springbok skins for her collection of bags, belts and cushions.
World Leather - Jun/Jul 2010
Downloadable PDF Developing African opportunities
The geographical focus in this issue is on Africa, looking at recent developments in the leather industry in five countries across the continent.
World Leather - Jun/Jul 2010
Downloadable PDF Medieval leathermaking lives on in Afghanistan
A significant proportion of Pakistan’s raw material supply comes from the war-torn country. Traders and hide/skin merchants salt, sort and select for export to Lahore, Karachi, Sialkot or Kasur by the truckload.
World Leather - Apr/May 2010
Downloadable PDF Anti-dumping extended for 15 months
The European Union has decided to extend anti-dumping duties on imports of leather shoes from China and Vietnam.
World Leather - Apr/May 2010
Downloadable PDF Anti-dumping extended for 15 months
The European Union has decided to extend anti-dumping duties on imports of leather shoes from China and Vietnam.
World Leather - Apr/May 2010
Downloadable PDF Anti-dumping extended for 15 months
The European Union has decided to extend anti-dumping duties on imports of leather shoes from China and Vietnam.
World Leather - Apr/May 2010
Downloadable PDF Raw material developments down under
Despite the intense focus in recent months on developments in raw material supply in the Americas, the importance of Australia and New Zealand to hide traders and tanners around the world is far from diminished.
World Leather - Apr/May 2010
Downloadable PDF Raw material developments down under
Despite the intense focus in recent months on developments in raw material supply in the Americas, the importance of Australia and New Zealand to hide traders and tanners around the world is far from diminished.
World Leather - Apr/May 2010
Downloadable PDF The old ways are best
Children’s footwear brand Kavat is still producing shoes in Kumla, Sweden’s traditional home of footwear manufacture, with the founder’s granddaughters now heavily involved in leading the company. A focus on traditional methods and local materials is opening up new markets all over northern Europe.
World Leather - Apr/May 2010
Downloadable PDF The old ways are best
Children’s footwear brand Kavat is still producing shoes in Kumla, Sweden’s traditional home of footwear manufacture, with the founder’s granddaughters now heavily involved in leading the company. A focus on traditional methods and local materials is opening up new markets all over northern Europe.
World Leather - Apr/May 2010
Downloadable PDF From Formula One to fashion
Italian brand Dal Dosso was established in 1974 by designer Franco Dal Dosso. The brand initially focused on producing gloves for Formula One drivers, but has since diversified into other sports as well as into the fashion market.
World Leather - Apr/May 2010
Downloadable PDF From Formula One to fashion
Italian brand Dal Dosso was established in 1974 by designer Franco Dal Dosso. The brand initially focused on producing gloves for Formula One drivers, but has since diversified into other sports as well as into the fashion market.
World Leather - Apr/May 2010
Downloadable PDF From Formula One to fashion
Italian brand Dal Dosso was established in 1974 by designer Franco Dal Dosso. The brand initially focused on producing gloves for Formula One drivers, but has since diversified into other sports as well as into the fashion market.
World Leather - Apr/May 2010
Downloadable PDF From Formula One to fashion
Italian brand Dal Dosso was established in 1974 by designer Franco Dal Dosso. The brand initially focused on producing gloves for Formula One drivers, but has since diversified into other sports as well as into the fashion market.
World Leather - Apr/May 2010
Downloadable PDF The global footwear industry
This report aims to give an up-to-date picture of the state of the industry at the close of 2009, with in-depth reports and analysis of what is happening in a number of the most important footwear producing countries in the world.
World Leather - Apr/May 2010
Downloadable PDF The global footwear industry
This report aims to give an up-to-date picture of the state of the industry at the close of 2009, with in-depth reports and analysis of what is happening in a number of the most important footwear producing countries in the world.
World Leather - Apr/May 2010
Downloadable PDF Bringing Brazil up to date
Brazilian footwear designer Sarah Chofakian on her inspirations.
World Leather - Apr/May 2010
Downloadable PDF Bringing Brazil up to date
Brazilian footwear designer Sarah Chofakian on her inspirations.
World Leather - Apr/May 2010
Downloadable PDF Leather Working Group prepares to take next steps
Five years on since the LWG came into existence, influential members believe the organisation is ready to become more targeted, to welcome involvement of other leather industry organisations and of more brands outside the footwear sector.
World Leather - Apr/May 2010
Downloadable PDF Leather Working Group prepares to take next steps
Five years on since the LWG came into existence, influential members believe the organisation is ready to become more targeted, to welcome involvement of other leather industry organisations and of more brands outside the footwear sector.
World Leather - Apr/May 2010
Downloadable PDF Tannery of the Year Awards goes far beyond benchmarking
A review of the first Tannery of the Year Awards Programme, offering a recap of what the initiative stands for, what the criteria are for tanneries across the world to become finalists and an extensive report of the first Gala Dinner in Hong Kong on March 29 at which the winners of the 2009 competition were announced.
World Leather - Apr/May 2010
Downloadable PDF Catching up with Coach
While its reach is ever broader, Coach is determined to maintain its classic American identity and style.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2010
Downloadable PDF A role to play
The new head of leather at specialty chemicals company Lanxess, Dr Markus Eckert, explains how leather plays an integral part in his company’s overall business. In an exclusive interview with World Leather, he says his company will continue to optimise its product portfolio and service offering to the industry.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2010
Downloadable PDF More leather in 2010
Dutch furniture manufacturer Leolux has decided that leather will feature more prominently in its 2010 collections.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2010
Downloadable PDF Regional Commentary: Asia, excluding China
Details of recent developments in the leather industry in various countries across this crucial region.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2010
Downloadable PDF Second conference builds on Beast to Beauty’s success
What was discussed at the second Beast to Beauty Conference
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2009
Downloadable PDF Second conference builds on Beast to Beauty’s success
What was discussed at the second Beast to Beauty Conference
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2009
Downloadable PDF Power vacuum in Nigeria
Hope remains for the livestock and tanning sectors in the Nigerian state of Kano in spite of serious set-backs in the form of energy and water shortages.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2009
Downloadable PDF Power vacuum in Nigeria
Hope remains for the livestock and tanning sectors in the Nigerian state of Kano in spite of serious set-backs in the form of energy and water shortages.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2009
Downloadable PDF The Buyer's View: Audi celebrates a century of leather
In 2009, German carmaker Audi celebrated 100 years of using leather in its cars.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2009
Downloadable PDF The Buyer's View: Audi celebrates a century of leather
In 2009, German carmaker Audi celebrated 100 years of using leather in its cars.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2009
Downloadable PDF The Buyer's View: Patricia Viera
Brazilian designer Patricia de Magalhães Viera’s devotion to using the material in creative and innovative ways has earned her the title of Empress of Leather. In spite of her regal nickname, she showed herself to be down-to-earth and seriously passionate about her work and the leather fashion collections she producesduring a presentation at APLF in Hong Kong in April.
World Leather - Jun/Jul 2009
Downloadable PDF School shoe plan lends leather industry a hand
Governments across the world are hatching plans to preserve jobs on home soil and boost domestic economies, with financial institutions and automotive companies the main beneficiaries so far. In the US, President Barack Obama has won approval for a stimulus plan worth $787 billion, which, he says, will “save or create 3.5 million jobs”.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2009
Downloadable PDF Regional Commentary - China: Picture changes
Tanneries and footwear factories have closed in high numbers in China over the course of the last 12 months. In some cases, companies have been unable to keep up with the government’s demands for better environmental or workforce management. In others, the pressures have been purely economic. In any case, the China Leather Industry Association argues here that the development will be a positive one in the end, a classic case of less being more.
World Leather - 08 - Dec/Jan 2008
Downloadable PDF Regional Commentary - China: Picture changes
Tanneries and footwear factories have closed in high numbers in China over the course of the last 12 months. In some cases, companies have been unable to keep up with the government’s demands for better environmental or workforce management. In others, the pressures have been purely economic. In any case, the China Leather Industry Association argues here that the development will be a positive one in the end, a classic case of less being more.
World Leather - 08 - Dec/Jan 2008
Downloadable PDF The Buyer's View: Leather helps ‘old slipper’ win award
The role leather plays in setting the right tone for Monaco’s Hotelier of the Year, Fredrik Aspegrén.
World Leather - 08 - Dec/Jan 2008
Downloadable PDF The Buyer's View: Leather helps ‘old slipper’ win award
The role leather plays in setting the right tone for Monaco’s Hotelier of the Year, Fredrik Aspegrén.
World Leather - 08 - Dec/Jan 2008
Downloadable PDF Spain: A sign of the times
The tanning industry in Spain is working hard to meet the needs of extensive domestic footwear, upholstery and fashion industries, but at the same time, it is striving to develop new business in new markets.
World Leather - 07 - Nov 2008
Downloadable PDF Picture changes in China
Tanneries and footwear factories have closed in high numbers in China over the course of the last 12 months. In some cases, companies have been unable to keep up with the government’s demands for better environmental or workforce management. In others, the pressures have been purely economic. In any case, the China Leather Industry Association argues here that the development will be a positive one in the end, a classic case of less being more.
World Leather - 07 - Nov 2008
Downloadable PDF The advantages of a focus on footwear
Vietnam’s leather sector has had a very mixed year, with the upholstery sector almost struggling to survive, while the leathergoods and footwear segments continue their rapid ascent. Fortunately for the industry in Vietnam, its focus is firmly slanted towards the last of these, footwear. And in spite of the ongoing debate about European Union (EU) anti-dumping measures against imports of leather shoes from Vietnam, the signs are positive.
World Leather - 07 - Nov 2008
Downloadable PDF Australian cattle sector suffers severe drought
The Australian cattle industry has suffered a tumultuous start to the year, with serious drought to contend with as well as rising feed costs and currency pressures. However, while some tanners are lamenting the combination of unfortunate circumstances, others believe the worst may soon be over and that business is starting to look up.
World Leather - 07 - Nov 2008
Downloadable PDF The beginning and the end of the leather industry
Consolidation in the tanning sector in the United States continued in 2007, confirming the country’s status in the modern-day leather sector as important—hugely important—but only at the beginning and end of the supply chain. No one can touch the US for footwear consumption. Even if 45% of the 2.4 billion pairs of shoes US consumers buy annually fall into the ‘athletic’ category, and contain little or no leather, the nonsports footwear market in the country was worth almost $30 billion in 2006, according to figures compiled by analyst firm the NPD Group.
World Leather - 07 - Nov 2008
Downloadable PDF Africa: local leather industries have huge footwear demand to meet
When Dr Samuel Kiruthu talks about the leather industry in Africa, one of the first things he likes to point out is the size of the continent, which he thinks people underestimate. A combination of China, the United States, Argentina and western Europe—yes, all of them together—would comfortably fit into Africa’s land-mass. With all this space available, it’s no surprise to learn that a substantial proportion—around 12%—of the world’s cattle population is in Africa. Just two countries, Sudan and Ethiopia, have 35% of Africa’s total between them. However, in spite of what Dr Kiruthu calls these “numerous livestock resources”, Africa at the moment supplies only 4.5% of the world’s hide supply. There is, therefore, a disconnect between livestock owners and the leather industry.
World Leather - 07 - Nov 2008
Downloadable PDF Value Proposition
If the South American leather industry were football, Brazil would be, well, Brazil. A bit like the national football team—which in spite of breathtaking resources, including Ronaldinho, Kaká and Gilberto Silva, failed to reach the most recent FIFA World Cup Final—the leather sector in the region’s largest economy has enjoyed easier times than it is experiencing at the moment.
World Leather - 07 - Nov 2008
Downloadable PDF A tough choice for Arzignano
The two great tanning clusters in northern Italy share a rivalry that, for Italy at least, seems fairly free of passion and venom. After all, the two centres do different things by completely different methods and for separate target markets, making it difficult to compare them. Nevertheless, with the leather upholstery market–the main focus of Arzignano, the bigger of the two clusters–coming under intense pressure, it looks as though only the smartest tanners will thrive in future.
World Leather - 07 - Nov 2008
Downloadable PDF Regional commentary — Vietnam
Vietnam’s leather sector has had a very mixed year, with the upholstery sector almost struggling to survive, while the leathergoods and footwear segments continue their rapid ascent. Fortunately, its focus is firmly slanted towards the last of these, footwear. And in spite of the ongoing debate about European Union anti-dumping measures against imports of leather shoes from Vietnam, the signs are positive.
World Leather - 06 - Oct 2008
Downloadable PDF Benchmarking: Part 1
Benchmarking: a process by which a business systematically measures itself against a better performing business, and then adopts and adapts any functions or procedures shown to be more effective.
World Leather - 06 - Oct 2008
Downloadable PDF Ecco expands integrated supply chain concept to China
The Danish footwear company’s preference to co-locate its tanneries with its footwear production plants, led to the launch of a new tannery in Xiamen, China, in September 2008.
World Leather - 06 - Oct 2008
Downloadable PDF Ecco expands integrated supply chain concept to China
The Danish footwear company’s preference to co-locate its tanneries with its footwear production plants, led to the launch of a new tannery in Xiamen, China, in September 2008.
World Leather - 06 - Oct 2008
Downloadable PDF Tico Torres brings back the rock with Birkenstock
A new collaborative shoe range from Bon Jovi drummer Tico Torres and German sandal brand Birkenstock Orthopädie launched at GDS in September 2008.
World Leather - 06 - Oct 2008
Downloadable PDF ‘Unique’ green suede in big demand
The president of Bernardo Fashions talks about the supplier relationship at the core of his company’s new eco-friendly suede jacket offering.
World Leather - 05 - Aug/Sept 2008
Downloadable PDF Class act
London-based manufacturer John Lobb appears happy to offer something that, by definition, is not indispensable: shoes for the luxury end of the market.
World Leather - 04 - June/July 2008
Downloadable PDF From an industrial training course to PhD research: a clear and unique pathway
The University of Northampton and LGR in Reutlingen combine forces
World Leather - 04 - June/July 2008
Downloadable PDF SLTC: South Africa Section
The 58th annual convention of the SLTC, South African Section was held 5-6 June 2008, near to Johannesburg. Approximately 70 delegates attended the meeting, mainly from South Africa and adjacent countries, but delegates were also present from Germany, UK and Brazil.
World Leather - 04 - June/July 2008
Downloadable PDF Value proposition
Brazil’s leather industry faces big challenges, but there was lots of enthusiasm at the Fimec exhibition in Novo Hamburgo in April.
World Leather - 03 - May 2008
Downloadable PDF Leather flies high as air travellers lap up luxury
Singapore Airlines is using leather in a special way to offer "a class beyond first" on selected flights.
World Leather - 03 - May 2008
Downloadable PDF Companies act to keep chromium VI out
The problem of chromium VI does not appear to go away, and is being taken very seriously by fashion groups, especially those selling children's footwear. When health matters – and especially children's health – are considerations, any concerns of the consumer will be driven by what is perceived as opposed to any technical debate. This article is based on a presentation given in World Footwear Jan/’Feb 2008, and is a timely reminder to the industry that vigilance remains of extreme importance.
World Leather - 03 - May 2008
Downloadable PDF Beauty is pain? Not in Denmark
Beautiful shoes without pain from Danish designer Helene Steensby.
World Leather - 03 - May 2008
Downloadable PDF SWOT analysis of the leather, footwear and leather goods industry in Bangladesh
The leather sector - that is leather, leather footwear and leather-goods manufacture–is perceived as one of the important economic sectors in Bangladesh. An important feature is that the businesses in this sector are privately owned, with only a few units belonging to multinational companies. The majority of these enterprises are small, and employ fewer than 50 persons. Wet blue leather produced by the tanneries is generally sold in the local market, while a considerable volume of crust and finished leather, footwear and leather goods are exported.
World Leather - 01 - Feb/Mar 2008
Downloadable PDF Elements in the Leather Industry (Part 2)
The elements of the periodic table have a diverse and interesting history. This article will attempt to bring some richness to the elements that are used or are present in the manufacture of leather or the treatment of its waste. This is not intended to be an exhaustive academic indulgence but more of an interesting interlude.
World Leather - 01 - Feb/Mar 2008
Downloadable PDF Elements in the Leather Industry (Part 2)
The elements of the periodic table have a diverse and interesting history. This article will attempt to bring some richness to the elements that are used or are present in the manufacture of leather or the treatment of its waste. This is not intended to be an exhaustive academic indulgence but more of an interesting interlude.
World Leather - 01 - Feb/Mar 2008
Downloadable PDF From an industrial training course to PhD research: a clear and unique pathway
In an historic series of events held at the University of Northampton and at Leathersellers Hall in London, the Lederinstitut Gerberschule Reutlingen - the German Leather School - finalised a major agreement of cooperation with the UK university. The most obvious outcome is that Lederinstitut Gerberschule Reutlingen (LGR) graduates will be able to transfer to the UK and join the final year at the University of Northampton to obtain the prestigious B.Sc. in Materials Technology (Leather). It is also hoped that there will be many positive outcomes in other directions of the relationship related to teaching and research.
World Leather - 01 - Feb/Mar 2008
Downloadable PDF Labour survey of the leather, footwear and leather goods industry in Bangladesh
The leather sector - that is leather manufacture, leather footwear manufacture, and the leather goods industry - is perceived as one of the most important economic sectors in Bangladesh. An important feature is that the businesses in this sector are privately owned, with only a few units belonging to multinational companies. Detailed information was published as a SWOT analysis in World Leather, April 2008. Based on a sample survey, this second study deals with information about employees of all categories (managerial, skilled, and unskilled). It provides detail on age, income, working hours, and training within the sector.
World Leather - 01 - Feb/Mar 2008
Downloadable PDF Ted Lapidus launches in India
Concord Brands, a Dubai-based group that runs an export, buying and design business across the Middle East, Hong Kong and India, is determined to make its mark on the retail boom that is just taking off in India. The man behind this vision is Shridhar Sarma, chief executive of Concord in India, and one important step he has taken so far has been to secure the rights to high-end, Paris-based brand Ted Lapidus for India and a number of other South Asian countries.
World Leather - 01 - Feb/Mar 2008
Downloadable PDF Regional Commentary - China: only the strongest will survive
The Chinese leather industry seems certain to enter a new phase in 2008, which may lead to consolidation among smaller players in the sector and force larger firms to improve their waste management and, perhaps, increase their prices if they want to stay in business.
World Leather - 08 - Dec/Jan 2007
Downloadable PDF Music, love, life: three reasons why these crocodiles shed no tears
A rare breed of crocodile, the crocodylus moreletii’s numbers had reduced to levels bordering on the endangered before the leather industry stepped in to help with preservation initiatives. That may sound strange, but through a joint venture involving investors, the state protection agency for crocodiles, Cocomex, and Eduardo Huber, an artisan in leatherwork, a new brand of leathergoods made exclusively from the hides of Morelet crocodiles, Cocolé, has been formed.
World Leather - 08 - Dec/Jan 2007
Downloadable PDF Look of leather: Veg-tanned leather proves attractive
It’s 11 years since Rafi Balouzian, a California-based specialist leathergoods designer and retailer, started Cydwoq. What is special about the shoes, boots, bags, belts and other goods he produces is that they are all made from leather he classes as “environmentally-friendly”.
World Leather - 08 - Dec/Jan 2007
Downloadable PDF The power of gloves
Bernd Michael Ostwald regards himself not as a fashion designer but as a craftsman. Under the name of OWA Moden, he runs one shop—or showroom—in his home city, Nuremberg, but also takes the bags and gloves he creates to trade fairs such as GDS in Düsseldorf and Mipel in Milan.
World Leather - 08 - Dec/Jan 2007
Downloadable PDF REACH me: Where we are today
Dr Alois Puntener from the Association of Swiss Leather Chemists and Technologists provides an update on the impact of the REACH legislation.
World Leather - 08 - Dec/Jan 2007
Downloadable PDF Special report: Fossil finds there’s more to success than the weak dollar
Towards the end of 2007, Texas-based accessories brand Fossil announced impressive third-quarter results, with leathergoods, and especially women’s handbags, making an increasing contribution to the company’s success. Most pleasing of all for the management team were the advances Fossil has made in the non-US market.
World Leather - 08 - Dec/Jan 2007
Downloadable PDF Test methods in brief: Number 11
Colour fastness of leather to water spotting - EN ISO 15700 / IUF 420
World Leather - 08 - Dec/Jan 2007
Downloadable PDF The Buyer’s View: The sweet smell of success
Tanneries, like all suppliers, are searching for extra ways to add value to their products in the hope that this will help them find new customers and keep on board the ones they have already. Nova Empresa, a Portuguese company, caused something of a stir at the Lineapelle exhibition in Bologna in the autumn with its new idea, Fragrant Leather.
World Leather - 08 - Dec/Jan 2007
Downloadable PDF Footwear fairs offer autumn cheer
With the footwear industry still swallowing up by far the greatest proportion of the leather that tanners produce around the world (47%), Europe’s main autumn footwear fairs are an important opportunity to take the sector’s pulse. The September shows this year—GDS in Düsseldorf, Micam in Milan and Modacalzado in Madrid—certainly appear to have achieved pass-marks.
World Leather - 07 - Nov 2007
Downloadable PDF Bigger and bolder bags and belts
The autumn edition of Lineapelle in Bologna included interesting developments in patent and patterned leathers and was a paradise for bag and belt designers.
World Leather - 07 - Nov 2007
Downloadable PDF The Cape fits for Hamburg couple
Travel certainly broadens the mind but—in some cases at least, among the more entrepreneurial—it can also spark serious business ideas. Kapworks is a case in point. Enthused and inspired by a trip to Cape Town five years ago, Marcus Jonas and Anke Voelker went home to Hamburg and decided to launch a company, importing finished handbags in bovine and exotic leathers from the South Africa they had fallen in love with.
World Leather - 07 - Nov 2007
Downloadable PDF Prevent Leather Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina
The need for a new tannery within the ASA-Prevent Group was conceived in 2003, with work on the new venture beginning in October 2004. This new tannery is now well-established in the town of Visoko located some 25km outside the capitol Sarajevo and was custom-built for the conversion of up to 2,000 hides per day into automotive leathers.
World Leather - 07 - Nov 2007
Downloadable PDF Regional Commentary: Japan and Australia
Leather is losing out in Japan’s intra-Asian export boom while Kangaroo leather is on the up in Australia.
World Leather - 07 - Nov 2007
Downloadable PDF The 110th Annual SLTC conference 2007
The 110th annual conference of the Society of Leather Technologists and Chemists was held in Chester UK on Saturday September 29, 2007, the event being attended by 77 people from the leather and associated industries. In total eight technical papers were presented including The Atkin Memorial lecture, “The beamhouse, foundation for leather making—experience during 50 years”, given by John Basford.
World Leather - 07 - Nov 2007
Downloadable PDF Make the message clearer: leather is wonderful
In the October issue of World Leather we published the first part of our report from this autumn’s inaugural International Leather Forum. The event in Paris, which attracted leather professionals from all parts of the world, consisted of four roundtable discussions. Having published our report on the first discussion—on the subject of training in the leather industry—last time, this follow up article offers a full account of the other three.
World Leather - 07 - Nov 2007
Downloadable PDF Test methods in brief: Number 9
Colour fastness of leather to rubbing
World Leather - 07 - Nov 2007
Downloadable PDF Buyer’s View: High hopes for new European venture
A recent reminder of current economic volatility came at the start of November with the results for the third quarter of the year of Tandy Leather Factory (TLF). The Fort Worth-based company is an eclectic leather industry operator with retail and wholesale operations across the US as well as in five Canadian provinces, selling leather, leathergoods, tools for leatherworking, buckles and other adornments for leather belts and dyes for colouring leather.
World Leather - 07 - Nov 2007
Downloadable PDF The determination of chromium (VI): Standardisation status
The co-existence of two different procedures for determining hexavalent chromium in leather across Europe has placed this hazardous substance once more in the midst of controversy.
World Leather - 06 - Oct 2007
Downloadable PDF Indonesia — long on potential
Indonesia has played a modest role in the world economy since its independence from the Netherlands in the 1940s, and its importance has been considerably less than its size, resources, and geographic position would seem to warrant.
World Leather - 06 - Oct 2007
Downloadable PDF Technology: The International School of Tanning Technology (ISTT), South Africa
Situated in Grahamstown, close to the southern tip of Africa is a leather school with an excellent pedigree. Established in 1999 it now provides much of the educational needs for the Southern African Development Community (SADC) including countries such as Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe and Kenya.
World Leather - 06 - Oct 2007
Downloadable PDF Technology: The International School of Tanning Technology (ISTT), South Africa
Situated in Grahamstown, close to the southern tip of Africa is a leather school with an excellent pedigree. Established in 1999 it now provides much of the educational needs for the Southern African Development Community (SADC) including countries such as Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe and Kenya.
World Leather - 06 - Oct 2007
Downloadable PDF Look of Leather: Good news for tanners as ‘slim the silhouette’ obsession kicks in
According to Aldo Premoli, a trend consultant working closely with the Italian National Footwear Institute (ANCI), the demand for boots will continue into the spring/summer 2008 season. Yes, boots— including long boots — in summer. Whatever next?
World Leather - 06 - Oct 2007
Downloadable PDF Look of Leather: Opera theme strikes the right note
A collection of 25 special pairs of shoes, the Carmen’s Shoes exhibition that first went on display in Milan in 2005 before going to Tokyo in 2006, won a third airing in Düsseldorf in September as the centre-piece of an evening reception.
World Leather - 06 - Oct 2007
Downloadable PDF Special report: Why the leather industry needs to attract and keep high-quality people
The first International Leather Forum, an initiative that came from the outgoing president of the International Union of Leather Technicians and Chemists (IULTCS), Marc Folachier, took place in Paris in September, where some interesting opinions where voiced.
World Leather - 06 - Oct 2007
Downloadable PDF The Buyer’s View: BMW
High hide consumption takes BMW’s leather sourcing global.
World Leather - 06 - Oct 2007
Downloadable PDF Profile — Bally: From revolution to evolution
The Industrial Revolution in Europe and the Western world in the 19th century changed the economic and manufacturing landscape beyond recognition. Pioneers in sectors such as coal, iron and steel, electricity, chemicals, machinery, and the transport industry were the first to make their fortunes. They were soon joined by entrepreneurs in industries such as textiles, leather and footwear who established strong positions in the international market. One such company was Switzerland’s Bally shoe factory.
World Leather - 05 - Aug/Sept 2007
Downloadable PDF The 57th SLTC South Africa Section annual conference
The 57th SLTC (South Africa Section) annual convention was held in the picturesque Kwazulu-Natal Midlands in June. In an effort to encourage the attendance of tanners the conference was held later in the year than usual and the content of the presentations was reviewed. This move by the committee was highly successful and attracted a total of 78 delegates representing a number of leather-associated industries and at least 14 tanneries.
World Leather - 05 - Aug/Sept 2007
Downloadable PDF XXIX IULTCS congress and 103rd ALCA annual meeting
Washington DC was the venue for the joint IULTCS congress and ALCA annual meeting in June, the first time that these two events had been held together. Attended by more than 220 people from 22 different countries it was a major international event, during which no less than 31 technical papers were presented.
World Leather - 05 - Aug/Sept 2007
Downloadable PDF Southern Europe: Something to defend
Southern Europe has had a leather industry for at least two millennia, as the discovery of an ancient tannery in Rome this summer indicates. These centuries of tradition have produced an industry that is intensely proud of what it has achieved. And, as proud people often do, they have reacted defensively to the threat to their strength, their dominance and their future that has arrived in recent years from Asia.
World Leather - 05 - Aug/Sept 2007
Downloadable PDF Out with the old and in with the new
Bright, vivid psychedelic and metallic colours at Bread and Butter in Barcelona were a fresh addition to the dirty, ‘second hand’ and ‘used’ look we have all got used to.
World Leather - 05 - Aug/Sept 2007
Downloadable PDF Look of Leather: Flight paths of colour
Diane Becker, fashion and colour consultant at the Vera Pelle Italiana Conciata al Vegetale, has collaborated with Paolo Russo to develop the themes for autumn/winter 2008/09.
World Leather - 05 - Aug/Sept 2007
Downloadable PDF Look of Leather: Tanners and designers combine in classy catalogue
The Spanish Tanners’ Confederation, Acexpiel, recently launched a new autumn/winter catalogue, Inspiration 2008, showing the work of eight tanners and six top designers from all parts of the country.
World Leather - 05 - Aug/Sept 2007
Downloadable PDF Lloyd shoes: Quality shoes - Made in Germany
Founded in 1888 as H.F Meyer in Bremen, Lloyd shoes has quietly been establishing a reputation as a supplier of high quality men’s shoes, that are most certainly ‘Made in Germany’. The company continues to defy popular wisdom by choosing to manufacture its products in Germany whilst so many others in the field have relocated to the Far East.
World Leather - 04 - June/July 2007
Downloadable PDF Foreign currency: Managing the risk
Whenever a company or an individual enters into an agreement to trade in goods or services that are priced in a foreign currency, there is an exposure to the risk of the volatile foreign exchange market.
World Leather - 04 - June/July 2007
Downloadable PDF Georgina Goodman: Love those shoes
The UK appears to produce more than its fair share of influential footwear designers who are making waves both at home and in the global markets. Among them is Georgina Goodman who, in just a few years, has established an international reputation for creating seriously glamorous shoes.
World Leather - 04 - June/July 2007
Downloadable PDF The Middle East: New leaders and economies, new jobs, new life
A younger generation of political and business leaders across the Middle East is beginning to emerge. The countries in this part of the world and their economies are on the brink of enormous change, and the opportunities for makers, buyers and sellers of leather and leathergoods are certain to increase.
World Leather - 04 - June/July 2007
Downloadable PDF Test methods in brief: Number 10
Colour fastness of leather to water.
World Leather - 04 - June/July 2007
Downloadable PDF Look of Leather: Brewing up a storm at Le Cuir à Paris
The materials and colours for winter 2009 trends at Le Cuir à Paris in September will capture the very essence of the weather and the feelings it evokes through colours and materials which are layered and piled.
World Leather - 04 - June/July 2007
Downloadable PDF Look of Leather: The strength of opposites
Chemical company TFL has recently released its Colour Trends & Fashion Inspirations for the leather industry for autumn/winter 2008/2009.
World Leather - 04 - June/July 2007
Downloadable PDF Setting an agenda for leather
After 38 years in the industry, the president of the International Union of Leather Technologists and Chemists Societies (IULTCS), Marc Folachier, believes he is entitled to make a few hard-hitting statements.
World Leather - 03 - May 2007
Downloadable PDF Book review: Faux Real
Faux Real is a new work by Robert Kanigel that provides a fascinating insight into the world of leather.
World Leather - 03 - May 2007
Downloadable PDF Formaldehyde analysis: Test methods and results
There have been recent changes in the understanding of the toxicity of formaldehyde, and a proposed change in the testing method. With the realisation that the greatest risk to human health comes from airborne formaldehyde, test methods are now tending to change to reflect this.
World Leather - 03 - May 2007
Downloadable PDF Regional commentary: Northern Europe
Germany recovers as niche markets light the way further north.
World Leather - 03 - May 2007
Downloadable PDF Buyer’s View: Fox Creek Leather
In spite of the mass exodus of manufacturing offshore, there are still successful leather garment makers fighting to maintain the ‘Made in America’ dream. One such company is Fox Creek Leather.
World Leather - 03 - May 2007
Downloadable PDF Buyer's view: Erva
You can resist the temptation to grow too big too quickly, but when film stars start appearing in magazines with your products, it soon becomes impossible for you to avoid the attention of the big buyers. This has been the experience of Erva, a Barcelona-based design company specialising in leather handbags.
World Leather - 02 - April 2007
Downloadable PDF Fashion: Fur stands out at SIMM
The resurgence that fur has enjoyed over the past few seasons seems set to stay if the designs on show at SIMM, held in Madrid in late February, are anything to go by.
World Leather - 02 - April 2007
Downloadable PDF Fashion: leather turns heads at Tranoi
The former home of the Paris Stock Exchange once again played host to the Tranoi exhibition at the start of March, allowing designers from all over the world to showcase their forthcoming autumn/winter collections.
World Leather - 02 - April 2007
Downloadable PDF Business training: Traditional skills come back into fashion
Established in the 1970s, UK luxury leather goods company Mulberry has become a globally-recognised brand. As demand for its leather bags has increased so have its production levels, which has made finding sufficient workers with the required leather-making skills a problem.
World Leather - 02 - April 2007
Downloadable PDF Regional commentary: South America
Whilst the leather industry may be one of the oldest trades on the South American continent, it seems clear that, these days, the vast majority of the activity is in the hands of only a few of the 12 countries in the region.
World Leather - 02 - April 2007
Downloadable PDF Regional commentary: North America and Mexico
Whilst much attention has been focused on the unification of relations in Europe in recent years, the progression of trade ties in the North American Free Trade Area has expanded significantly to create what could easily be called a single market.
World Leather - 01 - Feb/Mar 2007
Downloadable PDF Herman Miller - Your seat now showing at the Smithsonian
When the founder of Herman Miller Inc, DJ De Pree, acquired the Star Furniture Company in Zeeland, Michigan, USA, it is unlikely that anyone could have predicted the path the company would follow over the next 80 years.
World Leather - 01 - Feb/Mar 2007
Downloadable PDF Back to Basics: A framework for leather manufacture. Essay 17, Part 2
Dry, flat and extended leathers: The role of strain within the drying cycle; and the effects of stress within the drying cycle.
World Leather - 01 - Feb/Mar 2007
Downloadable PDF Technology: A problem shared is a problem solved
Problem solving within the leather industry.
World Leather - 01 - Feb/Mar 2007
Downloadable PDF Technology: A problem shared is a problem solved
Problem solving within the leather industry.
World Leather - 01 - Feb/Mar 2007
Downloadable PDF The changing world of exhibitions
The arrival of new technology has fundamentally undermined the international exhibition landscape, yet it is the same technology that provides the solution to the needs of global business in a way that trade shows can no longer match.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2006
Downloadable PDF Adapting to changing times
‘External’ changes have had a huge impact on the leather industry, and have led to many traditional leather producers struggling for survival. In spite of this, the institutions that continue to represent the tanneries that remain are unwilling to allow the industry in the traditional leather-making regions to merely become a page in the history books.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2006
Downloadable PDF Mongolia: Stepping up its leather industry
For many years Mongolians processed hides and skins from goat, sheep, horse, cow and camel using traditional methods, and this met the needs of the country. At the time of independence from China in the early 1920s, documents show that the quantity of leather being made by these methods was one million sheep skins, 700,000 kid skins, 60,000 cow hides, 50,000 horse hides and 6,000 camel hides per year.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2006
Downloadable PDF REACH, a ground-breaking EU regulation
The status of REACH today.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2006
Downloadable PDF Russia steps up to the challenge
Many economists think that only the USA and Japan will remain in the current top six economies worldwide by 2050. The others will be replaced by Russia, China, India and Brazil (the BRIC economies). There is every reason to think that the leather industry in Russia is slowly but steadily gearing up to play its role in that economic dominance.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2006
Downloadable PDF Regional commentary: The Maghreb and Egypt
As the rush to globalisation continues, the last few years have not been easy for the North African leather industry.
World Leather - Nov 2006
Downloadable PDF History: Turning the climate clock back
As archaeologists continue to discover 'icemen' and leather artefacts from thousands of years ago as the glaciers recede... is climate change really something new?
World Leather - Nov 2006
Downloadable PDF Creating a coaching culture in businesses
Life Coaching has been getting a mixed press lately, yet is used a lot in top companies and organisations. It has had a longer recognition in the USA than in the rest of the world where a level of scepticism is still to be found. It has relevance to companies of any size, throughout the leather industry chain. Dr Des Rice believes it is worth delving a little deeper.
World Leather - Nov 2006
Downloadable PDF History: The origin of the species
A precise knowledge of the raw material is essential for the art — or science — of leather-making and it is acknowledged that bovine hides are the most important part in the story of leather manufacture.
World Leather - Nov 2006
Downloadable PDF Is your boss addicted to hierarchy?
In today’s management world hierarchy is the only form of career structure for many employees but, for young people in these dynamic and changing times this will not work. So says Gerard Fairtlough who was CEO of Shell Chemicals and founder of the biopharmaceuticals company Celltech.
World Leather - Oct 2006
Downloadable PDF Test methods Number 7: Colour fastness of leather to migration into plasticised PVC
The colour fastness in respect of migration into plasticised poly vinyl chloride — PVC — is the transfer of colour from leather to white plasticised PVC at 50°C.
World Leather - Oct 2006
Downloadable PDF Test method Number 8: Colour fastness of leather to perspiration
The fastness of colour of leather to perspiration means its resistance to the prolonged action of an artificial perspiration solution.
World Leather - Oct 2006
Downloadable PDF Buyer's view: Berghaus
There may well be a myriad of synthetic materials now available to manufacturers of footwear for outdoor activities, but UK-based outdoor clothing and equipment manufacturer Berghaus still believes that leather has a firm footing in the mountaineering and outdoor market place.
World Leather - Oct 2006
Downloadable PDF The Pacific Rim – edging towards success or demise?
During the 1990s industrialists were warned that the 21st Century was to be the ‘Pacific Century’ and that the growth of China would lead to a realignment in trade routes and a new balance of importance of trade for the many countries bordering the Pacific. Many new trade routes have been set up as other Pacific countries have established new business with China, whilst others have sought alternate partners to balance the risks of China monopolising the industry.
World Leather - Oct 2006
Downloadable PDF Buyer's view: Patagonia
Environmentally-friendly leather takes a step into the outdoors with the emphasis on ISO 14001.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2006
Downloadable PDF Buyer's view: Patagonia
Environmentally-friendly leather takes a step into the outdoors with the emphasis on ISO 14001.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2006
Downloadable PDF China - the 21st century phenomenon
Between 1997 and 2004, the country's gross domestic product grew by a staggering 83% to almost $1,665 billion. The impact on the world's leather industry has been equally as staggering.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2006
Downloadable PDF Personal opinion: Launching the International Leather Forum
By Marc Folachier
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2006
Downloadable PDF A practical evaluation of replacement white retanning syntans
This study presents the findings from an evaluation made on commercial replacement syntans.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2006
Downloadable PDF Technology profile: Joseph Clayton & Sons
Clayton of Chesterfield is one of the few remaining tanners in the UK, so what is the secret to its continued success and expansion?
World Leather - June/July 2006
Downloadable PDF Technology profile: Joseph Clayton & Sons
Clayton of Chesterfield is one of the few remaining tanners in the UK, so what is the secret to its continued success and expansion?
World Leather - June/July 2006
Downloadable PDF IULTCS II Euro-Congress, Istanbul
The second IULTCS Euro-Congress was held in Istanbul, Turkey on May 24-27, 2006.
World Leather - June/July 2006
Downloadable PDF Microbiological testing of leather
Growing competition from lower cost countries in the Far East has forced the predominantly small- and medium-sized enterprises that comprise Europe's footwear industry to adopt innovative features and optimise comfort. One area to receive increased attention is the microbial resistance of upper leathers and, as a consequence, the test methods used to ensure their quality in this respect.
World Leather - June/July 2006
Downloadable PDF The properties of leather: strength and stretch
Strength and stretch across the skin area and the effect of splitting.
World Leather - June/July 2006
Downloadable PDF Regional commentary: South East Asia
Neighbours face diverse challenges in the global marketplace as countries such as Indonesia, Malaysia and Vietnam find themselves squeezed between the immense growth of China and the emergence of the Indian subcontinent.
World Leather - June/July 2006
Downloadable PDF A salt-free pickling regime for hides and skins
This paper describes a series of pilot studies to investigate salt-free pickling systems based on phenol sulfonic acid preparations on hides, sheepskins pelts, and woolsheep leading to the successful commercialisation of the findings.
World Leather - June/July 2006
Downloadable PDF Markets: Supply and demand
Supply and demand:Time to look at long-term strategies
World Leather - June/July 2006
Downloadable PDF The Machine Minder: Vallero International - Drumming up business around the world
Vallero International can trace the foundation of the family business back to 1847. But although having over 150 years of experience in the working of wood is a priceless asset, the company knows it cannot rest on its laurels and has now developed a range of stainless steel processing vessels to complement its wooden drums.
World Leather - June/July 2006
Downloadable PDF Regional survey: Challenging times for Europe
Challenging and changing times for Europe. Meanwhile, Europe's neighbour Albania sees footwear production soar.
World Leather - May 2006
Downloadable PDF A green frame of mind in the workshop?
Now even the cynical amongst us are beginning to suspect that there is more to the 'green' movement than just faddiness.
World Leather - May 2006
Downloadable PDF Bags of appeal from top to toe
The continuing trend for leather bags, accessories and footwear was highlighted once again at the recent exhibitions showcasing collections for autumn/winter 2007/2007.
World Leather - May 2006
Downloadable PDF Winter is set to be a warm one
In spite of certain groups criticising the use of fur in fashion, it seems that consumer interest in fur clothing and accessories continues to grow.
World Leather - May 2006
Downloadable PDF Control and traceability - yesterday's control but today's necessity
Over the last 20 years we have seen many different formats for tracing leather through the tannery and the Gibson Bass Hide System is now a well-recognised means of effectively stamping an identidfier on a hide or skin.
World Leather - May 2006
Downloadable PDF The Machine Minder: NCT
NCT advances further towards the fully automated tannery.
World Leather - May 2006
Downloadable PDF Test methods in brief: Number 5
Colour fastness of leather to machine washing.
World Leather - May 2006
Downloadable PDF Test methods in brief: Number 6
Colour fastness of small samples to dry cleaning solutions.
World Leather - May 2006
Downloadable PDF Back to Basics: A framework for leather manufacture. Essay 12
Reciprocating multi-roller machines: The fleshing machine in operation.
World Leather - April 2006
Downloadable PDF Business Profile: Feltre - bulk management
Fast moving leather: bulk management with individual treatment.
World Leather - April 2006
Downloadable PDF Profile: Stahl invests in China
As Stahl enters its 51st year, its new facility in China is set to come on stream.
World Leather - April 2006
Downloadable PDF Enhancing commom effluent treatment with a reed bed system
Since the introduction of reed beds in India in 1997, a number of reed beds using SP. Trema have been set up and investigated for both secondary and tertiary treatment.
World Leather - April 2006
Downloadable PDF The potential of silicates in leather production. Part 2
Benefits with new chemical procedures, and the development of a new commodity.
World Leather - April 2006
Downloadable PDF Regional survey: USA and Mexico
Consuming concerns in the USA, the US alligator industry rides the storm; Mexico - trying to retain a foothold.
World Leather - April 2006
Downloadable PDF Vegetable tannage of heavy leathers
Over and above the type of skin or hide, the characteristics of vegetable tanned heavy leathers are highly dependent on the nature of the vegetable tanning material selected; the percentage of tannin offered; and the levels of acids and salts in the tannage.
World Leather - April 2006
Downloadable PDF The resistance of wet-white pre-tanning systems to mould growth
The resistance of wet-white pre-tanning systems to mould growth when supported by various fungicides
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2006
Downloadable PDF Buyer's view: Swaine Adeney Brigg
The 250 year old UK-based company has developed over many years from umbrella and whipmaking to carve itself a niche in the luxury leathergoods market.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2006
Downloadable PDF Back to Basics: A framework for leather manufacture. Essay 11
Although there is considerable information available on the construction of machines in the tannery, there is very little detail available on the engineering principles involved. Moreover, there is even less information available concerning the way that forces are absorbed by hides and skins under different conditions, and the outcomes from these interactions.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2006
Downloadable PDF Otzi died with his boots on
In 1991 a deep frozen corpse was discovered at 3,210 metres on top of a mountain on the border between Austria and Italy. He has been nicknamed Otzi and has been the subject of intense scientific research. The ancient footwear fascinated Petr Hlavacek from Zlin's Thomas Bata University who has reconstructed Otzi's boots.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2006
Downloadable PDF Recycling - a new source of innovation
After decades of defending its environmental position, the leather industry has seen dialogue change. Corporate social responsibility requires tanners to start thinking about what happens to all the products and articles as they end their useful life. Instead of just safe disposal the argument has now shifted to how to recycle them.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2006
Downloadable PDF The scientific detective: Test methods and their importance fior specifications
How do you find the right balance between over specification and ensuring the correct quality level?
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2006
Downloadable PDF Regional survey: South America
Brazil, a country of mixed fortunes; Argentina's leathergoods sector rises from the ashes; Colombia: Contraband and quality.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2006
Downloadable PDF The Machine Minder: Recycling containers
Leather production requires a broad range of liquid chemicals — tanning and bating compounds, fatliquors, a whole host of specialised finishing compounds, both solvent and waterbased. Management’s main concern is to make sure that stocks are ordered and delivered on time, but out in the backyard of the factory we are confronted with an aspect that is generally ignored — the “empties”.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2006
Downloadable PDF Country commentary: India, Pakistan and Bangladesh
India is now a source for 10% of the global leather requirement; Pakistan has set a $1 billion export target; and the leather industry in Bangladesh is moving forward. An overview of the industry in these three countries highlights the significance of the subcontinent in the global leather sector.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2005
Downloadable PDF CSIRO Leather Research Centre closes after 40 years' service to the industry
Established in 1965, the CSIRO Leather Research Group had a highly successful research and commercial record until it closed its doors for the last time in June 2005 due to a contraction in the number of Australian manufacturers.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2005
Downloadable PDF Test methods Number 3: Colour fastness of leather to light: Xenon lamp
An explanation of the method used to determine the resistance of the colour of leather to the action of a standard artificial light source.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2005
Downloadable PDF Test methods Number 4: Colour fastness of leather to mild washing
An explanation of the testing methods concerning the colour fastness of leather to mild washing.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2005
Downloadable PDF TFL at 10
A profile of chemicals group TFL, which is celebrating its 10th anniversary and is building on a long tradition.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2005
Downloadable PDF Anaerobic digestion of tannery sludge: Lowering salinity to reduce sludge volume
An investigation was performed to minimise the volume of tannery sludges by bio-degradation. To overcome the inhibiting effects caused by inorganic solubles used in leather manufacture, a novel technique was employed to reduce the salts content of these sludges. This article looks at the success of this investigation.
World Leather - Nov 2005
Downloadable PDF Anaerobic digestion of tannery sludge: Lowering salinity to reduce sludge volume
An investigation was performed to minimise the volume of tannery sludges by bio-degradation. To overcome the inhibiting effects caused by inorganic solubles used in leather manufacture, a novel technique was employed to reduce the salts content of these sludges. This article looks at the success of this investigation.
World Leather - Nov 2005
Downloadable PDF Optimum chrome tanning of hides and modified Thrublu process for lime-split hides
Chrome tanning for a long time enjoyed a unique position amongst tanners and almost 90% of leather produced is chrome tanned. A number of studies have been published suggesting that Chromium(III) itself may be toxic at higher levels and Chromium(VI) is a known carcinogen. So, tanners have to consider how best to modify their tanning process for better exhaustion of chrome and look for alternative means to minimise the impact of tanning on the environment.
World Leather - Nov 2005
Downloadable PDF The real cost of a kilo of salt
The following paper provides an overview of a different approach to tanning. The technique is managed in the ‘non-swelling’ pH zone, and thus eliminates the need for salt within the conventional acid pickle. The fibre stabilisation provided – somewhat similar to a pretannage with glutaraldehyde – allows strong leather characteristics, such as those provided by conventional chrome tannage, to be developed within a main tanning or retanning stage.
World Leather - Nov 2005
Downloadable PDF Country commentary: Russia and the CIS countries
The fall of the Berlin Wall was a seminal moment in the ushering in of a new global economy. No area was more affected than Russia and those countries that used to form the Soviet Union. A decade and a half later the very name Soviet Union sounds like ancient history, and yet the changes which started then still appear to have a long way to go.
World Leather - Nov 2005
Downloadable PDF The effects of salinity on the treatment of tannery effluents and sludges
Within the biological treatment of tannery effluent, the general approach uses aerobic bacteria maintained in suspension to digest nutrients within the effluent. Soluble effluent components that have a high oxygen demand are converted into a fine suspension of bacterial clusters and are removed as solids. However, systems that rely on anaerobic bacterial action can also be usefully employed to remove components that otherwise would produce a high oxygen demand in the effluent.
World Leather - Nov 2005
Downloadable PDF “Same place next year…”
Business-to-business marketing in the leather industry has evolved a pattern that generally places marketing as a peripheral activity and trade shows at the centre. Yet, with so many trade shows in the calendar, in so many countries, the role of the trade show in the marketing and communications mix is being questioned in many sectors.
World Leather - Nov 2005
Downloadable PDF Buyer’s view: Lantal
Travel has become an integral part of modern life and whilst people may think about routes, prices, times and even the most comfortable clothing to wear, the type of seat they are going to sit in is probably never even considered. Fortunately, Lantal Textiles has spent years optimising the comfort and design of transport upholstery fabrics so that the seat we spend hours in does not become an issue.
World Leather - Nov 2005
Downloadable PDF Land Rover: The iconic brand
Land Rover has become so well known it has become an iconic brand that stands for ‘go-anywhere’ capability coupled with luxury and a ‘country’ style. At Land Rover upholstery leather is a natural product which adds to the vehicle interior that extra special touch, feel and ambience which cannot be written into a specification.
World Leather - Oct 2005
Downloadable PDF Country commentary: Italy
Anyone reading Market Intelligence in our sister publication World Leather Business Week will know that the leather industry is not a happy place right now. As a result, the positive aspects of the footwear industry at retail do not appear to be moving easily through to the tanneries. Shoemakers have felt this wind of change and footwear imports from China into Italy have soared to such an extent that Italian shoemakers made a symbolic journey to Brussels early in the summer to hand in their keys.
World Leather - Oct 2005
Downloadable PDF Münzing goes for growth: 175 years on
Older than Bayer or BASF and still 100% family owned, Münzing Chemie GmbH remains rooted in same location where it was founded nearly two centuries ago. Its technologies have evolved but yet retain an uncanny resemblance to the procedures and the advanced thinking of the founder. Leveraging these technologies into the 21st century has been the responsibility of the sixth generation and the young Michael Münzing seems well prepared to show that the time of successful family companies is back in the ascendancy.
World Leather - Oct 2005
Downloadable PDF Münzing goes for growth: 175 years on
Older than Bayer or BASF and still 100% family owned, Münzing Chemie GmbH remains rooted in same location where it was founded nearly two centuries ago. Its technologies have evolved but yet retain an uncanny resemblance to the procedures and the advanced thinking of the founder. Leveraging these technologies into the 21st century has been the responsibility of the sixth generation and the young Michael Münzing seems well prepared to show that the time of successful family companies is back in the ascendancy.
World Leather - Oct 2005
Downloadable PDF Removing phospholipids from hides: Looking back on a “New perspective on wet processing”
The paper "New perspective on wet processing" was published in World Leather October/November 1993, in which the advantages offered by the removal of phospholipids were discussed. Given that the value of raw hides and leather selling prices - strongly influenced by area and quality - are so important to the tanner, perhaps it's time to re-evaluate this technology.
World Leather - Oct 2005
Downloadable PDF South of the Sahara
This feature looks at an area that has real possibilities in terms of finished leather and footwear, Sub-Saharan Africa. It has seen considerable changes in its leather-based industries in the past few years and is the area seen as having the most long-term potential due to its raw material resources.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2005
Downloadable PDF Difficult times for Brazilian exporters
Brazilian exporters are becoming dispirited due to an overvalued Real, so what effect is it having on the footwear industry?
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2005
Downloadable PDF Colorimetry in the finishing process
Worldwide-web-supported system for colorimetry and colour formulation can be used to complement expertise in colour standardisation and formulation. This means in practice that there is no longer any need to send data or colour samples halfway round the world by post or courier to ensure that a recipe gives exactly the right shade.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2005
Downloadable PDF Business management: Fair trade and human rights
The international political agenda in recent months has been focused on debt relief for poorer nations, G8 summits and the impact of WTO decisions on imports and exports. However, as production continues to move away from the 'developed' world to the 'developing' world, global players need to focus on a different aspect of globalisation: social responsibility.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2005
Downloadable PDF Business technology: A prize-winning tannery
While tanners in other European nations have often been heard to complain about the onerous burdens placed on them to meet EU and national environmental legislation, Hulshof, one of Holland’s tanners, seems to revel in meeting the challenge. In fact, the company appears to be setting the standards for others to follow.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2005
Downloadable PDF Personal opinion: REACH
The European Union’s proposed REACH Regulation continues to cause concern to the leather industry and its suppliers in the chemical sector. Recent personal meetings with many leaders in the European chemical industry and major European tanners would confirm that the dangers of REACH are real. On their behalf, we felt it appropriate to send the following letter to the Prime Minister of the UK, as the country that currently holds the presidency of the EU.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2005
Downloadable PDF Personal opinion: REACH
The European Union’s proposed REACH Regulation continues to cause concern to the leather industry and its suppliers in the chemical sector. Recent personal meetings with many leaders in the European chemical industry and major European tanners would confirm that the dangers of REACH are real. On their behalf, we felt it appropriate to send the following letter to the Prime Minister of the UK, as the country that currently holds the presidency of the EU.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2005
Downloadable PDF Formaldehyde-free leather – a realistic objective?
There is an increasing demand for “formaldehyde-free” leather. No legal regulation presently exists for this chemical in the EU, but in many areas of application the amount of formaldehyde contained in leather is limited by technical specifications or eco-labels.
World Leather - June/July 2005
Downloadable PDF A practical evaluation of acrylic resins
This study describes a method for evaluating commercial acrylic resins as used in retannage. By means of in-house tests, this technique can prove useful to tanneries in the selection of resin retanning agents that, from a cost-effectiveness point of view, best suit their purposes.
World Leather - June/July 2005
Downloadable PDF Buyer’s view: Loewe
The Gran Vía, Madrid’s most glamorous street, boasts a rich array of international fashion houses. The Loewe store blends subtly into this setting of opulence and style yet represents a brand that stands for elements dear to the Spanish conscience: tradition, royalty and superb quality in the country’s much cherished flagship material - leather.
World Leather - June/July 2005
Downloadable PDF Country commentary: China
The rate at which the Chinese leather industry continues to grow is also either alarming or a boon, depending on where one stands. The 2004 figures were themselves an increase of 19% over 2003, with that year’s export figure coming in at $27 billion, itself an 18% jump on the previous year. China’s share of global footwear production alone is now over 50 per cent, and they have over 80 per cent of the US market in both leather and non-leather footwear.
World Leather - May 2005
Downloadable PDF Conflicting test methods
The European Committee for Standardisation (CEN) is responsible for the generation of harmonised standards for member states within the European Union. Since its establishment, many national standards like BS, DIN, NF and
World Leather - April 2005
Downloadable PDF Country commentary: Spain
A healthy footwear industry needs an equally strong supply side and a supply of good quality leather is paramount. Despite the trends currently sweeping the world of footwear in general and the impact they have had on Spain in particular, the country’s industry must still be considered as being fairly robust.
World Leather - April 2005
Downloadable PDF The automotive sector: Heated seats
For the last 15 years one of the major growth areas for the leather industry, and one providing a protective niche for western tanners, has been in automotive upholstery.
World Leather - April 2005
Downloadable PDF Business management: Supply chain logistics
It is not surprising that we see transportation businesses now being defined as ‘logistics’. The management of huge volumes of inventory all around the world and their on-time delivery to multiple destinations through multiple channels are now such key elements in the financial success of any business.
World Leather - April 2005
Downloadable PDF Corrected or non-corrected grain? FILK-QMA-1201 — a method to evaluate finished leather
The main objective of grain correction of leathers is to remove surface defects. If the defects are slight, then buffing can be very light, so that only a small amount of the grain is removed by abrasion.
World Leather - April 2005
Downloadable PDF Buyer’s View: Roseal Leathers
This edition of the Buyer's View is different to our usual type of story in that it is not concerned with a company that is mainly involved in the manufacture of finished articles. The company does however form a vital part of the manufacturing chain running from abattoir to tanner through to manufacturer, retailer and finally consumer.
World Leather - April 2005
Downloadable PDF Country commentary: India
Indian leather exports passed the $2 billion mark last year and with a target of $4 billion by 2010, the leather industry is gearing up to expand its capacity.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2005
Downloadable PDF A practical evaluation of dyestuffs
In recent years, following increases in the price of raw materials and chemicals, the competition of new markets such as China and India, and the introduction of ever stricter laws on pollution and environmental impact, it has become
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2005
Downloadable PDF Buyer’s view: TVR
TVR is one of the leading British sports car manufacturers and is unique among companies of its size in that it designs and manufactures in-house its own range of engines to power its spectacular range of sports cars. World Leather was given a fascinating insight into the world of hand built, high performance specialist sports cars.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2005
Downloadable PDF Buyer’s view: Sandstorm
The UK-based company has launched a range of canvas and leather safari-style bags that are true to the company's 'Out of Africa' roots.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2004
Downloadable PDF Country Commentary: Indonesia
There is still a long way to go for the Indonesian tanning industry to regain the stature it enjoyed before the Asian crisis of the late 1990s.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2004
Downloadable PDF Hafde: Cutting the celebratory cake at 100
Ethiopia’s highland sheep, currently numbered at about 20 million, provide the raw material universally considered best for fine gloving and garment leather because of the smooth grain and great strength at light weights.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2004
Downloadable PDF The determination of Cr(VI) by test method IUC18/CEN/TS14495
The publication of the test method CEN/TS 14495(1)(identical to IUC 18) last year—which focused on the determination of Cr(VI) in leather—became the subject of discussion in Germany and across the whole of Europe.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2004
Downloadable PDF Country commentary: Thailand
Times are hard for the leather and shoe trades but increasingly, tanneries are producing upholstery leather and manufacturing the end product as this sector is less affected by fashion and whims.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2004
Downloadable PDF Country commentary: Vietnam
Things are changing in Vietnam. Many leading footwear manufacturers, including Nike, Reebok, adidas, Diadora, Timberland and Clarks have some production capacity in the country and footwear production is rising. Leather manufacture is on the increase too.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2004
Downloadable PDF At the cutting edge: clothing leathers
There are two quite different outlets for leather clothing, where, in addition to good tensile strength and resistance to tearing, very specific properties for protection are required. One area of use requires high protection against abrasion, the other a high level of heat and flame resistance.
World Leather - Nov 2004
Downloadable PDF Regional Commentary: The EU
After over forty years of Soviet ‘velvet occupation’ Poland, the Czech Republic, Slovakia, Hungary, Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia have joined the EU. Footwear and leather production in Poland, the Czech Republic, Slovakia and Hungary is much smaller in terms of quantity, but has greatly improved as far as quality is concerned. This only partly is due to the influence of high quality imported goods from the West.
World Leather - Nov 2004
Downloadable PDF Meet in Africa
Meet in Africa has grown from an exploratory meeting and educational format to a full-blooded trade fair, and each time the reports get more positive. With 270 exhibitors and just over 2,000 visitors this October’s presentation did not need a huge space, fitting essentially into the underground car park of the UNECA building. Yet, like the early days of the Hong Kong show, leather trade diehards know that meetings in car parks can be very productive.
World Leather - Nov 2004
Downloadable PDF Meet in Africa
Meet in Africa has grown from an exploratory meeting and educational format to a full-blooded trade fair, and each time the reports get more positive. With 270 exhibitors and just over 2,000 visitors this October’s presentation did not need a huge space, fitting essentially into the underground car park of the UNECA building. Yet, like the early days of the Hong Kong show, leather trade diehards know that meetings in car parks can be very productive.
World Leather - Nov 2004
Downloadable PDF Buyer’s view: Leathercare Renovations
Leathercare Renovations rapidly established a reputation amongst the prestige car suppliers of the North West of England. It was an arrangement that worked well for nearly 14 years during which time the company expanded into furniture, boats and aircraft, as well as car restoration. In 2002, to everyone’s shock, Connolly Leather was no more and Leathercare Renovations is now proud to carry on the tradition of “Connollising” leather interiors.
World Leather - Nov 2004
Downloadable PDF Country commentary: Italy
Mario Polegato, founder and CEO of GEOX footwear, took part in the TFL Forum at Lineapelle/TanningTech. He argued that industry in Italy and the rest of Europe might be able to fight for fair competition against low cost manufacturing companies, but will no longer be able to obtain any form of trade protection.
World Leather - Oct 2004
Downloadable PDF Country commentary: Italy
Figures published by the Consorzio Vera Pelle Italiana Conciata al Vegetale (Italian Vegetable Tanned Leather Consortium) show a drop of 17% in the value of vegetable leather produced in 2003 compared with 2002.
World Leather - Oct 2004
Downloadable PDF Country commentary: Italy
As more and more sectors of Italian industry come under threat from external competitors, the country has seen a move towards promoting the concept of Made in Italy.
World Leather - Oct 2004
Downloadable PDF Country commentary: Italy
One way to make sure that people look closely at your company is to get it mentioned prominently in the annual reports of other major international retailers and businesses. Natuzzi is already recognised as the world’s largest furniture maker, and its importance is underscored by being in the annual reports of both Sears and Richina Pacific.
World Leather - Oct 2004
Downloadable PDF Country commentary: Italy
World production of footwear moved up to 12.4 billion pairs in 2003, and annual growth of 1.5%. Hidden behind this figure are declines in production in all markets except Asia and South America. Africa and North America saw a 13% decline and Europe, both east and west, declined by 9%. With Italy by far Europe’s leader in all things to do with footwear, these are difficult times.
World Leather - Oct 2004
Downloadable PDF Germany’s Lederinstitut Gerberschule Reutlingen
There are very few institutes which may claim to be unique in the world, but the Lederinstitut Gerberschule Reutlingen (LGR) is considered one of those.
World Leather - Oct 2004
Downloadable PDF Buyer’s view: Berluti
Towards the end of the 19th century Paris became a world centre for fashion, architecture and style. Footwear maker Berlutti established itself in the the “Golden Triangle”; bounded by the Avenue des Champs Elysées, Avenue George V and Avenue Montaigne, is still the place to shop for the very highest quality and luxury articles.
World Leather - Oct 2004
Downloadable PDF Regional Survey: Africa; False dawn or real sunlight?
Vision for Africa: ‘A world in which African leather and leather products are seen by local consumers and by consumers in developed countries as having the best quality, design and value for money’.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2004
Downloadable PDF Leather conservation in Africa
Some people get all the luck. The phone rings and someone says: “You remember the gilt leather frieze in the Drawing Room? Well, we’ve just come to the end of a large restoration project and there is some money left…”
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2004
Downloadable PDF Leather conservation in Africa
Some people get all the luck. The phone rings and someone says: “You remember the gilt leather frieze in the Drawing Room? Well, we’ve just come to the end of a large restoration project and there is some money left…”
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2004
Downloadable PDF Profile: Südleder at 25; Success in a difficult climate
Not many, if any, brand new tannery operations have taken root in Western Europe in the closing quarter of the 20th century. Against the odds, Südleder GmbH & Co has. Several German leather and hide businesses, seeing an existing and rising
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2004
Downloadable PDF Buyer’s View: Marks & Spencer; More global than British
Reading national newspapers in the United Kingdom recently would have one thinking that Marks & Spencer is a very British company. To many small shareholders it is but the perception
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2004
Downloadable PDF Country commentary: Australia
China is casting a shadow over the Australian leather industry, and while some are benefiting from having a neighbour growing so strongly, others are being forced to become more innovative, more desperate and more adaptable to survive.
World Leather - June/July 2004
Downloadable PDF At the cutting edge: gloving leathers
There are three main areas where special properties are demanded of gloving leathers: industrial gloves, fire fighters' gloves and gloves that protect against thermal risks.
World Leather - June/July 2004
Downloadable PDF Country commentary: New Zealand
Despite flooding in February 2004 that it is estimated to cost to the rural sector NZ$160-180 million, tanneries in the country are increasing capacity. Also, the move away from dependence on high-priced Australian raw material has seen an improvement in profitability and ensured the future of the woolskin tanning industry.
World Leather - June/July 2004
Downloadable PDF In reaction to REACh: the chemical industry, the Bush administration and the European efforts to regulate chemicals
This report examines how the Bush administration responded to a landmark effort by the European Union to reduce the risks of chemical exposure.
World Leather - June/July 2004
Downloadable PDF Buyer’s view: Northern Suede
Manchester-based Northern Suede is a successful leather clothing business that maintains the link with the traditional tailoring traditions of northern English city.
World Leather - June/July 2004
Downloadable PDF Country commentary: Turkey
Over the years, Turkey has steadily insinuated itself into a major position in the world’s leather industry without ever quite achieving the high profile of India, Brazil or, more recently, China.
World Leather - June/July 2004
Downloadable PDF British School of Leather Technology; building on a 600-year heritage
The British School of Leather Technology was formed in 1978 by the merging of two dedicated colleges.
World Leather - May 2004
Downloadable PDF Country commentary: China
After decades of straight-line growth and an assumption that the only foreseeable route for the future was further expansion, the January 2004 figures published by the China Leather Industry Association came as a shock.
World Leather - May 2004
Downloadable PDF Ostashkov Tannery, Russia
Under the ownership of Russian entrepreneur Leonid Parfenov and the Australian industrial group Victor Smorgon, Ostashkov Tannery is one of the leading manufacturers of finished and semi finished leathers in the territories of the former USSR. At full capacity the tannery is capable of processing 120 tons of raw hides per day, with an annual output in excess of 45 million square feet of leather.
World Leather - May 2004
Downloadable PDF Zhejiang Shouwang: Four million garments a year and now moving into sofas
China’s Zhejiang Shouwang Group, a privately owned company, claims to be the largest production base of leather and fur garments in the world.
World Leather - May 2004
Downloadable PDF Buyer’s view: Jane Saunders & Manning
World Leather recently visited a company with an extra special requirement for supplying exactly what its customers really need. It would probably not place itself in the luxury category but, as a manufacturer of orthopaedic footwear and appliances, the products it supplies have an enormous impact on the lives of its customers.
World Leather - May 2004
Downloadable PDF Study and restoration of leather shoes from 18th Century burials
In 1991, when the pavement of the parish church of Sant Baldiri in Sant Boi de Llobregat, Barcelona, was replaced, three 18th Century graves were revealed. In one tomb a pair of leather shoes was found; the following article describes the results of the analysis and restoration of the shoes.
World Leather - April 2004
Downloadable PDF Back to Basics: Environmental - Part 5 of 10
Nitrogen is contained in several different components in tannery effluent and sometimes there is a need to differentiate between these sources.
World Leather - April 2004
Downloadable PDF Country commentary: Brazil
Brazil has the second largest commercial bovine herd in the world with over 175 million cattle and is therefore one of the main hide suppliers with around 15% of the total global hide offer.
World Leather - April 2004
Downloadable PDF Country commentary: Argentina
During the 1990’s crisis, Argentina’s tanning industry built a strong sector, technologically up-to-date and capable of producing crust and finished leather to the highest standards.
World Leather - April 2004
Downloadable PDF Back to Basics: Environmental - Part 4 of 10
Components within waste-waters, their characteristics and environmental effects.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2004
Downloadable PDF Country commentary: Mexico
The Mexican leather sector became important for the local economy when the footwear industry was born and, therefore, it is intimately linked to shoe production.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2004
Downloadable PDF The unavoidable implications of REACH on the leather industry
Dr Schmidt-Sonnenschein of Bayer Chemicals discusses issues raised in connection to REACH (Registration, Authorisation and Restrictions of Chemicals EU Chemicals Policy).
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2004
Downloadable PDF Back to Basics: Environmental - Part 3 of 10
Components within waste waters, their characteristics and environmental effects.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2003
Downloadable PDF Country commentary: France
The French leather industry in total comprises some 548 concerns dealing with all aspects of raw materials, leather production and leather manufacture. It employed about 33,000 people in 2002 and produced a turnover of E3.5 billion, approximately 7% down on 2001.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2003
Downloadable PDF False hexavalent chromium determinations
Considerable discussion and research has taken place into the potential weaknesses and accuracy of the diphenylcarbazide determination of hexavalent chromium in leather. Despite these reservations, the general attitude has been to accept that hexavalent chromium - as determined by diphenylcarbazide methods - is real and hazardous.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2003
Downloadable PDF False hexavalent chromium determinations
Considerable discussion and research has taken place into the potential weaknesses and accuracy of the diphenylcarbazide determination of hexavalent chromium in leather. Despite these reservations, the general attitude has been to accept that hexavalent chromium - as determined by diphenylcarbazide methods - is real and hazardous.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2003
Downloadable PDF Star-burst: measurement of tear and deformation
A new test method for shoe upper leathers has been developed that can measure the tear and deformation properties of a leather in a single test piece. Known as Star-burst, this technique offers practical benefits in terms of both speed and cost.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2003
Downloadable PDF Buyer’s view: Bata
Bata is a name that has resonated around the world for more than 100 years, so it would be unlikely that, in looking at the footwear company today, one could avoid its extraordinary history.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2003
Downloadable PDF Buyer’s view: Trio-Line
World Leather takes a look at Danish furniture on a visit to one of the country’s leading furniture makers, Trio-Line of Haarby on the island of Fyn.
World Leather - Nov 2003
Downloadable PDF Country commentary: Poland
The profitability of the Polish leather sector is improving. It appears as if the market reforms are working and although the production of leather continues to decline, it is still profitable.
World Leather - Nov 2003
Downloadable PDF Weight = area?
Within the leather making sector the preference for hide purchases based on area instead of weight have been the subject of debate and investigation. However, neither measurement by weight nor area provides a truly accurate yardstick for predicting either yields or costings.
World Leather - Nov 2003
Downloadable PDF Country commentary: Italy
Italian leather making, its suppliers and its customers, have taken the blows and the lingering effects of BSE and 9/11, the war in the Middle East, the rapid growth of footwear and leather goods exports from China and most recently SARS, on the chin.
World Leather - Oct 2003
Downloadable PDF Buyer’s view: J & M Davidson
We take a look at the story behind the UK-based leathergoods and fashion retailer.
World Leather - Oct 2003
Downloadable PDF Country commentary: Korea
These are not easy times for South Korea’s tanneries. Like every other advanced economy, Korea faces intense competition from low-cost production platforms. Unfortunately for Korea it shares a border with the giant of low-cost producers – China.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2003
Downloadable PDF Country commentary: USA
Twenty years ago, tanners were being urged to globalise. Unfortunately, most of them had little idea what globalisation was, but nevertheless a few tried it. Today the industry has changed tremendously – and globalisation is not the word they are thinking about. It’s survival.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2003
Downloadable PDF Buyer’s View: Sakari Sauso
With winter temperatures in the north of the country reaching as low as -20°C and with up to 51 days without the winter sun rising above
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2003
Downloadable PDF Buyer’s view: SATRA
When it was founded 80 years ago in Kettering, then one of the UK’s shoe and leather clusters, SATRA was almost entirely concerned with footwear testing and research. Today, it has evolved into an international membership organisation serving several consumer product industries – including footwear, apparel, fabric care, safety products and furniture.
World Leather - June/July 2003
Downloadable PDF Country commentary: Russia
Twelve years after the implosion of the old Soviet Union in December 1991, Russia is still struggling to establish a modern marketeconomy, modernise its industrial base and maintain strong economic growth.
World Leather - June/July 2003
Downloadable PDF Country commentary: Turkey
About 80% of Turkish leather production revolves around processing double-face into finished garments.
World Leather - June/July 2003
Downloadable PDF Natural and artificial ageing of upholstery leather
A problem for any manufacturer is that a guarantee period for the product must be taken into account although the precise conditions of use are unknown. Test methods are therefore required which simulate the conditions of use, and the changes which occur naturally over a number of years
World Leather - June/July 2003
Downloadable PDF Country commentary: Indonesia
Generally speaking, the Indonesian economy is still not in good shape but there have been signs of recovery of late.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2002
Downloadable PDF Country commentary: Argentina
New markets and possibilities have been opened up to Argentina’s footwear and leathergoods sectors, and manufacturers’ associations are now organising trade missions and participation both in local and international fairs and other relevant events.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2002
Downloadable PDF Porvair: addressing the footwear sector
During the late 1960s, Porvair used technology based on polyurethane to create a new material at 2.0-3.0mm for use in shoe uppers.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2002
Downloadable PDF Buyer’s view: The culture of excellence
Switzerland's de Sede is considered among the finest furniture companies and uses only the highest quality materials and manufacturing techniques.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2002