World Leather
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items found in FINISHING: Retanning, dyeing and fatliquoring; Drying & pre-finishing; Leather Finishing.
The eco-friendly future of the spraying machine
For any transformation of leather there is always energy use and consumption. It is the responsibility of the manufacturing companies, those who produce and design the machinery, to make the process not only economically advantageous but also virtuous and
World Leather - Jun/July 2020
Nemomilling system – application technology for crust or finished leathers
Started in 1957 as a family company, Dermochimica has found its place in the leather industry as a producer of chemical solutions for the entire leather process. Built on the principles of sustainable innovation, quality and service, the Nemomilling syste
World Leather - Apr/May 2020
ECOTAN: efficiency made simple
Ecotan is Erretre’s new option for automated spray machines. A spray booth that achieves excellent results, designed to take into account the finer details but also the bigger picture with regards the most important requirements of leather finish coating
World Leather - Apr/May 2020
Taking retanning to the next level with a new innovative amphoteric polymer
A new product from Lanxess can be what the company calls a tool for increasing the efficiency of the overall retanning process, saving products, improving fixation and reducing environmental load.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2019
Flesh-side resin coating
Gemata’s 30 years of experience in the production of complete finishing lines, comprising roller machines, drying tunnels and spray booths, offers precision and reliability. Adding to this, Starface is a new, patented roller-coating machine specifically d
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2019
Hot off the press
Evolution Tech, a relatively new entrant to the leather world, is bringing its low temperature, pre-heating roller press to the world of embossing. World Leather spoke to Evolution Tech’s Antonello Marchino about the machine and the technology employed.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2019
On the lookout for excellence with spray booths
With a solid history of roller-coating machines, Gemata has been producing machinery for leather finishing since 1972. With recent innovations, such as finishing lines complete with spray-booth and drying-tunnels fitted with heat-recovery and energy-savin
World Leather - Jun/July 2019
Radio frequency drying
Cartigliano is no stranger to leather drying. For nearly 60 years, the company has specialised in making machinery for drying and conditioning leather. At the Tanning Tech exhibition in February, World Leather was given a demonstration of its new radio fr
World Leather - Apr/May 2019
Hides go to waste
Demand for high-quality leather remains strong, but no one in the global industry can be in any doubt that lower-value material is harder to sell than at any time in living memory. As a result, what we thought would never happen has come to pass: hides re
World Leather - Apr/May 2019
Challenges in China around VOCs and leather’s smell
New legislation in China imposes strict limits on emissions in car interiors, changing the requirements original equipment manufacturers face when testing automotive leather. In turn, this will have an impact on automotive leather manufacturers. Leather c
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2018
Mainstream shoes are not coming back
Received wisdom in the leather industry is that the price of hides always moves in a cycle from cheap to expensive and back again. Prices reached historically high levels in 2014 and 2015 and shoe companies drastically reduced the volume of leather they w
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2018
Lexus-inspired sports shoe
A new handmade shoe from sports brand Norman Walsh takes its inspiration from automotive brand Lexus, including its use of upholstery leather in the upper.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2018
Tannery to perfection
Dr Toni Polato, president of Italian tannery machinery manufacturer Cartigliano, explains how contract drying has helped its facility in Mexico become an important player in the automotive leather market.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2018
Tannery to perfection
Dr Toni Polato, president of Italian tannery machinery manufacturer Cartigliano, explains how contract drying has helped its facility in Mexico become an important player in the automotive leather market.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2018
Consistency is key
The chief executive of tannery machinery manufacturer Bergi, Mauro Bergozza, says the company’s latest ironing and embossing machine, SuperVario, can be especially effective for automotive leather manufacturers.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2018
Options on anti-soiling
Consumers are becoming more and more demanding and want protection in their car interiors against soiling from everyday items such as denim jeans and coffee. OEMs are picking and choosing what type of protection they want their automotive leathers to have
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2018
Live and let live
Even if market demand went through the roof, there are too few hides in the world for leather to be the only material of choice for all the footwear, seats, clothes, bags and belts that people buy and use. Other materials are a must, and always have been.
World Leather - Jun/July 2018
Waterproofing innovation
Lanxess has introduced a self-emulsifying polymer that it says can help tanners produce leather with high levels of waterproofness from variable raw material.
World Leather - Apr/May 2018
Innovation and research in leather finishing using release paper
Machinery manufacturer Gemata has taken steps to bring its release paper application technology up to date.
World Leather - Apr/May 2018
New technology requires hard work
New machines from Cartigliano take time to be developed.
World Leather - Apr/May 2018
New technology requires hard work
New machines from Cartigliano take time to be developed.
World Leather - Apr/May 2018
A wearable technology for leather products
Evolution Leather Consulting, a start-up from Turkey but based in London, has patented a process for producing photoluminescent leather and is working with a tanner to develop a new range called GloTech Leather.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2018
Arzignano — an area of modern tannery machinery development
In his farewell article for World Leather, machinery expert Walter Landmann gives an account of the rise of the tanning machinery sector in Arzignano in northern Italy, with a particular focus on some of the new or updated machines that Bergi has brought
World Leather - Apr/May 2017
Focus upon intelligent milling drums
Trissino in Italian Vicenza province is home to Revomec Srl, a newly established engineering business now concentrating on designing and manufacturing a family of milling drums.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2017
Studies on the determination of thickness, mass per unit area and the apparent density of leather
A method to verify and determine precision data from the procedures for determining thickness (ISO 2589), apparent density and mass per unit area of leather (ISO 2420) was used in an inter-laboratory test of leather samples. This study was on behalf of a
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2017
New Italian finishing equipment from Gemata
Roller coating takes a fresh approach and reciprocating spraying system functions have been newly developed by Gemata.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2016
New Italian finishing equipment from Gemata
Roller coating takes a fresh approach and reciprocating spraying system functions have been newly developed by Gemata.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2016
Challenges facing fatliquors today
• The development, production and selling of fatliquors is no longer a simple process. • Challenges arise for tanneries and chemical companies alike as more lists of chemicals of concern to both the environment or to human health are established. • Innova
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2016
Challenges facing fatliquors today
• The development, production and selling of fatliquors is no longer a simple process. • Challenges arise for tanneries and chemical companies alike as more lists of chemicals of concern to both the environment or to human health are established. • Innova
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2016
Milling drum opens up new possibilities
Erretre’s latest version of the Ambra milling drum will give tanners the chance to make leathers with a feel and special effects that would have been impossible without the new technology, according to leather chemicals developer Stahl.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2016
Milling drum opens up new possibilities
Erretre’s latest version of the Ambra milling drum will give tanners the chance to make leathers with a feel and special effects that would have been impossible without the new technology, according to leather chemicals developer Stahl.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2016
The mechanisms of leather drying
The management of physical properties such as flexibility, looseness, texture, area and strength has been a focus of leather manufacture for over a century. Papers and book chapters covering the quality and conditions during drying have appeared on a regu
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2016
The mechanisms of leather drying
The management of physical properties such as flexibility, looseness, texture, area and strength has been a focus of leather manufacture for over a century. Papers and book chapters covering the quality and conditions during drying have appeared on a regu
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2016
Italian machinery builder Aletti leads in design and performance
Important technical development based upon the general success of wet buffing encouraged Aletti to now manufacture its well-known belt buffer (Velox) capable of both dry and wet buffing.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2016
Italian machinery builder Aletti leads in design and performance
Important technical development based upon the general success of wet buffing encouraged Aletti to now manufacture its well-known belt buffer (Velox) capable of both dry and wet buffing.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2016
Newly developed leather sprayingmachines bring robotics on board
French company Mercier Turner takes a bold step by marrying latest technology with 1950’s design of reciprocating spraying machines.
World Leather - June/July 2016
Studies on the determination of soiling and cleaning behaviour of leather. Part 1: Inter-laboratory test on soiling and cleaning behaviour of leather
A main task of the VGCT Commission “Leather Testing and Assessment” is the detailed examination for the determination of physical and colour fastness properties of leather, especially in terms of procedures. The intention is to detect performance characte
World Leather - Apr/May 2016
Robotics in leather making?
Italian machine builder Emmezeta brings it a step nearer.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2015
Robotics in leather making?
Italian machine builder Emmezeta brings it a step nearer.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2015
Tannery machinery design takes advantage of engineering developments
World Leather reviews recently redesigned machines in the Bergi range.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2015
Particles and potential losses
Within leather making there has always been a loss in value due to contamination arising from the presence of dust and particles. These problems can become apparent after dyeing operations where colour contamination can become obvious. Effects become inc
World Leather - Apr/May 2015
Tanning Tech 2015 in Milan
Despite some initial doubts the decision to move this fair from the highly successful Bologna venue to the Milan Rho exhibition complex attracted substantial support from Italian and international visitors.
World Leather - Apr/May 2015
Leading tanneries prove integral link in the automotive chain
It’s not easy to cope with the demands of car makers, which request high quality, flexibility and large volumes at competitive costs, but tanners work hard to stay one step ahead by using innovative techniques and developing more effective working methods
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2015
Innovation in drying: Cell Rotaring Conditioning
Toggle and vacuum drying are today the two most important methods of drying used by the tanner, with the former resulting in higher area yield and greater stiffness while the latter produces increased toughness with softness in the leather.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2014
Innovation in drying: Cell Rotaring Conditioning
Toggle and vacuum drying are today the two most important methods of drying used by the tanner, with the former resulting in higher area yield and greater stiffness while the latter produces increased toughness with softness in the leather.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2014
Leather as part of a sustainable lifestyle
Many companies in the luxury sector are committed to advancing good social, environmental, and animal welfare practices, including sustainable sourcing practices. And because many of these companies offer footwear, clothing and accessories made from leath
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2014
The Eternal Nude
The article covers part of a series of photographs taken at Joao Carvalho's studio in Gouxaria, Alcanena, Portugal 2013.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2014
A cultural revolution
Life sciences company SCD Probiotics has long encouraged companies using its technology platform to be creative. One customer in India decided to try the products, which are based on the actions of beneficial microbes, in tanning processes to great effect
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2014
Phthalate-free plasticisers in nitrocellulose (NC) and cellulose acetobutyrate (CAB) systems
Lacquers are formulated to provide the finished leather with the required level of gloss and feel. Nitrocellulose (NC) and, to a lesser extent, cellulose acetobutyrate (CAB) lacquers are widely used.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2010
Phthalate-free plasticisers in nitrocellulose (NC) and cellulose acetobutyrate (CAB) systems
Lacquers are formulated to provide the finished leather with the required level of gloss and feel. Nitrocellulose (NC) and, to a lesser extent, cellulose acetobutyrate (CAB) lacquers are widely used.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2010
Sustainable leather finishing free of NMP and with reduced VOC
N-Methylpyrrolidone (NMP) was a popular solvent used in leather finishing for a considerable time. Mainly, it eased the production of binders and the application on leather, hence it was helpful in achieving good performance.
World Leather - Jun/Jul 2010
Increasing the thermal behaviour of leather using a modified chrome hydrolysate
A low cost and easily manufactured product based on chrome leather hydroylsate has been developed that is very effective as a fire retarding agent. This product can be applied in the same manner as a retanning agent and shows good leather making possibili
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2010
Effect of care products on leather properties
Upholstery leathers for furniture and automotive uses are subjected to intensive wear conditions. Cleaning and care at regular time intervals are therefore necessary, or at least highly recommended. The choice of a suitable care product for the respective
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2010
X-Biomer: A new way forward in retanning chemistry
Sustainability is no longer an option, and it requires willingness to change and to think in new ways. For this reason traditional operations in the leather industry have to be challenged now, and a holistic perspective helps to direct the leather industr
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2014
A water-based coating system for lower-grade leather and splits
This environmentally sound coating system, known as Hydro PU Coating, is based on modern NMP- and NEP-free polyurethane (PU) polymers. It has been developed and fine-tuned over the past five years and is now in use at various manufacturing sites.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2014
Spray finishing by computer
Erretre have developed a rotary spraying machine equipped to control unwanted emissions whilst also creating a high performance product.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2014
Spray finishing by computer
Erretre have developed a rotary spraying machine equipped to control unwanted emissions whilst also creating a high performance product.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2014
VOC-free leathers: A moving target
Emissions of Volatile Organic Compounds from leather originated as a discussion in the automotive industry, triggered by so-called "Fogging", a physical effect. Nowadays the focus is increasingly on smell and toxicological aspects of VOC emissions. This c
World Leather - June/July 2014
Usage of vegetable tanning products beyond tanning
The use of vegetable tanning agents within leather making is well known for both tanning and the distinctive colours that these products provide. But these historic and present day uses of these natural products are not just restricted to the leather sect
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2013
Positive impact on communities
Raw materials development projects in Italy and Latin America by specialty leather chemicals manufacturer Silvateam have had important social impacts and represent good examples of corporate social responsibility in practice.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2013
More versatility in pre-finishing machinery
Bergi, in particular, well established over a period of nearly fifty years in the development and manufacture of buffing, setting, dedusting and polishing machinery and then for its rollcoaters and rotary presses, is building new features into such equipm
World Leather - Apr/May 2014
More versatility in pre-finishing machinery
Bergi, in particular, well established over a period of nearly fifty years in the development and manufacture of buffing, setting, dedusting and polishing machinery and then for its rollcoaters and rotary presses, is building new features into such equipm
World Leather - Apr/May 2014
Adding value to leather goods
Both customers and consumers need to be fully satisfied with services and products that they receive. For many customers in the higher-value leather product sector the uniqueness within the design of the product is paramount.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2013
Caviar and exotic sturgeon leather
The sturgeon is one of the most ancient and valuable fish in the world. They live exclusively in the northern hemisphere, North America, Europe and Asia and belong to one of the oldest families of bony fishes. Sturgeons are diadromous fish that spend most
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2013
Less is more
Over the past 10 years the quality of the hide surface has lessened dramatically and continues to present major challenges to the tanneries in finding methods to convert low-grade raw material into high-quality, naturallooking finished leather.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2013
Less is more
Over the past 10 years the quality of the hide surface has lessened dramatically and continues to present major challenges to the tanneries in finding methods to convert low-grade raw material into high-quality, naturallooking finished leather.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2013
In short supply
High-end Italian brands have a well earned reputation, alongside their French and other counterparts, of leading the luxury leathergoods industry. It’s a demanding market, and the tanners who supply the biggest and best have to work hard to keep meeting t
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2013
X-Lite - Aesthetic lightweight leather
Several important trends have been observed in the tanning industry during recent years. One of those is the reduction in both availability and quality of hides, leading to a greater demand for leather “upgrading”. Another increasing trend, especially reg
World Leather - June/July 2013
X-Lite - Aesthetic lightweight leather
Several important trends have been observed in the tanning industry during recent years. One of those is the reduction in both availability and quality of hides, leading to a greater demand for leather “upgrading”. Another increasing trend, especially reg
World Leather - June/July 2013
Wheel of fortune
A specialist in leather for steering wheels, Andreas Kindermann, is convinced that increasing affluence in China will lead to a much higher proportion of cars there having leather-covered steering wheels.
World Leather - June/July 2013
Migration of colour into water-based finishes
For the tannery supplying the automotive and upholstery markets, an important characteristic of the dyed leather is the stability of the colour when exposed to various extremes of temperature and humidity. This applies not only to the dyed crust leather b
World Leather - June/July 2013
Migration of colour into water-based finishes
For the tannery supplying the automotive and upholstery markets, an important characteristic of the dyed leather is the stability of the colour when exposed to various extremes of temperature and humidity. This applies not only to the dyed crust leather b
World Leather - June/July 2013
Syntans: improved performance for automotive leathers
The development of syntans for the use in automotive leather has been driven by two major technical requirements: improved light fastness properties and low residual monomer concentration - such as phenol and formaldehyde - within these products. As a res
World Leather - June/July 2013
Syntans: improved performance for automotive leathers
The development of syntans for the use in automotive leather has been driven by two major technical requirements: improved light fastness properties and low residual monomer concentration - such as phenol and formaldehyde - within these products. As a res
World Leather - June/July 2013
Achieving anti-soiling properties with automotive leathers
Stahl illustrates the complexity of designing an anti-soil and anti-stain finish that works for all the different test methods and for all different types of soiling and staining.
World Leather - June/July 2013
Squeaky clean without the squeak
Chemicals applied to automotive leather at the finishing stage to make it stain-resistant have often produced an unacceptably loud squeak-effect as an unintended consequence. Italian leather chemicals manufacturer GSC has worked on a quieter solution to t
World Leather - June/July 2013
Link-Lock: an explanation of the chemical stabilisation of collagen
Chemical modifications of collagen, of the type known in the leather tanning industry, can raise the denaturation temperature, from 60ºC in its natural state, up to 130ºC. There are only a few chemical reactions known to be capable of achieving the highest values and these have long been assumed to be unrelated.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2010
Kotai, a tannery with an unusual take on leather
The Taiwanese tannery uses chemical-free dyes including one derived from leaves taken from a special tree in the mountain areas of Taiwan.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2010
Chemical production to suit the tanner
Chemicals provider Yorchem believes demand is high for chemical solutions made in the smaller quantities that tanners often need but cannot easily get. With carefully planned growth, the company is ready to make a bigger impression on the global leather industry.
World Leather - Apr/May 2010
The advantage of EasyWhite Tan leathers in retanning, dyeing and fatliquoring processes
Initially, EasyWhite Tan was developed for use in the manufacture of automotive leather. But during the early stages of development it became clear that its chrome-like character also made it suitable for use in a very wide range of articles, including shoe upper, garment, upholstery and vegetable type leathers.The advantage of EasyWhite Tan leathers in retanning, dyeing and fatliquoring processes
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2012
Leather topcoats with anti-soiling and non-squeak properties
In the last few years upholstery and automotive interior designers have increasingly selected leathers in light colours such as white, beige or grey. At the same time, they have chosen to use more leathers with a very high degree of matting. These leathers provide the modern and elegant look designers strive for.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2012
Cartigliano “Just In Time” technology: Part 3
In the final part of the series, we look at the conditioner and the final staker.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2013
Cartigliano “just in time” technology. Part 2
This article highlights feeder, vacuum dryer and second wet stretching operations of the line.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2012
Wet-Wet
A new development in the process simplification employing the “WET-WET” system Gemata roller coater finishing lines
World Leather - June/July 2012
Roller coater wash-dryer
A mechanical device available optionally on new Gemata Topstar roller coating machines and which also lends itself to be retrofitted to such existing machines.
World Leather - June/July 2012
Sustainability through the leather production chain
Sponsored by Clariant, this feature looks at the development of solutions that simplify the production of finished leather while limiting the burden on people, the environment and resources.
World Leather - Apr/May 2012
High-fastness fatliquors from sustainable resources
New fatliquors based on renewable raw materials have been developed that provide outstanding light and heat fastness performance together with excellent softening effects. This paper gives an overview of the chemistry of fatliquors, and compares the techn
World Leather - Apr/May 2012
Machines in the Tannery: Innovators & Research – Olcina Group
Spanish drum maker Olcina Group, the developer of the Cangilones drum system, has created Cangilones Next technology, the most revolutionary breakthrough in wet end processing in recent times.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2012
Machines in the Tannery: Innovators & Research – Cartigliano
The background to the samm/setting and the wet stretching processes.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2012
The advantage of EasyWhite Tan leathers in retanning, dyeing and fatliquoring processes
Initially, EasyWhite Tan was developed for use in the manufacture of automotive leather. But during the early stages of development it became clear that its chrome-like character also made it suitable for use in a very wide range of articles, including shoe upper, garment, upholstery and vegetable type leathers.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2011
Colour Communication
Isaac Newton made a study of colour starting at the age of 23 in 1666 and developed the Newton colour circle, published in his book Opticks in 1704. He developed the first scientific and practically appropriate colour space as presented in Panel 1.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2011
Innovation Part 2: Co-products and solids management
Twenty world-standard tanneries have opened their doors for in-depth study as part of the Tannery of the Year Awards 2009 and 2011 programme. Considerable technical information has been published following these visits. Recycling and regeneration practic
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2011
Leather topcoats with anti-soiling and non-squeak properties
In the last few years upholstery and automotive interior designers have increasingly selected leathers in light colours such as white, beige or grey. At the same time, they have chosen to use more leathers with a very high degree of matting. These leather
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2011
Back to Basics: A Framework for Leather Manufacture
The effects of forces applied within leather finishing.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2009
The automatic movement of leathers after dyeing
The movement of leathers following retannage and dyeing has always been problematical. Each day there are a various dyeings taking place, hence the risk of staining between different loads – both from splashing and from contaminated containers.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2009
Back to Basics: A Framework for Leather Manufacture
Pre-finishing and Finishing Essay 25, Part 3: Spray Techniques
World Leather - 06 - Oct 2008
Back to Basics: A Framework for Leather Manufacture
Pre-finishing and Finishing Essay 25, Part 3: Spray Techniques
World Leather - 06 - Oct 2008
Pre-finishing and Finishing Part 6: Finish drying
There is more technology in finishing drying than generally perceived. In the recent past the flashing off of the solvents contained in finishing products was relatively simple. Drying temperature could be kept on the low side and the exposure of the leather to the heat was generally short enough not to affect properties and characteristics.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2009
Pre-finishing and Finishing Part 6: Finish drying
There is more technology in finishing drying than generally perceived. In the recent past the flashing off of the solvents contained in finishing products was relatively simple. Drying temperature could be kept on the low side and the exposure of the leather to the heat was generally short enough not to affect properties and characteristics.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2009
Producing soft leather, consistently
With a reduced availability of the traditional oils used for fatliquoring, lecithin has become an important raw material for all leathers, particularly ones that need extra softness. Lecithin, a vegetable oil, has been incorporated into fatliquors comparatively recently. It is now difficult to imagine how we could produce the required buttery feel without this product. However, lecithin fatliquors are different to normally used oils, as they need more carefully controlled emulsification.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2009
Back to Basics: A Framework for Leather Manufacture
Pre-finishing and Finishing Part 7: Plating/Glazing/Embossing/Polishing
World Leather - Jun/Jul 2009
Back to Basics: A Framework for Leather Manufacture
Pre-finishing and Finishing Part 7: Plating/Glazing/Embossing/Polishing
World Leather - Jun/Jul 2009
Back to Basics: A Framework for Leather Manufacture
Pre-finishing and Finishing Part 5: Curtain Coating
World Leather - 08 - Dec/Jan 2008
Aqueous finishing of waterproof shoe upper leathers and waterproof pull-ups
The end consumer’s requirements for shoe upper leather are in a state of steady development. Footwear used for outdoor activities — such as hiking, climbing or trekking, and sports and golf shoes — needs to be waterproof; such properties are also demanded by high quality casual and so called mainstream fashion footwear. Because the price level for these products is higher than for standard articles, waterproof leathers are commercially of high interest. Waterproofing a leather definitely adds value.
World Leather - 08 - Dec/Jan 2008
Pre-finishing and finishing: Part 1. Buffing
Buffing is a pre-finishing operation designed to ready the leather surface for the application of finishing products, and to determine specific appearance as well as certain surface characteristics. It is a process of abrasion to refine the grain or to re
World Leather - 04 - June/July 2008
Back to Basics: A framework for leather manufacture
Leather drying and conditioning: Conditioning - Staking - Milling
World Leather - 02 - April 2008
Back to basics: A framework for leather manufacture
Leather drying and conditioning: Radiation drying
World Leather - 01 - Feb/Mar 2008
Fatliquors and fatliquoring: Part 2
The history of leather-making, the development and functions of fatliquoring and the definition of a fatliquor were discussed in Part 1 of this paper, published in World Leather October 2007. Part 2 continues the overview of this complex subject, providin
World Leather - 01 - Feb/Mar 2008
Pre-finishing and Finishing Part 2: Padding Techniques
The application of finishing products by means of padding may be carried out manually, possibly with some mechanical assistance or with automatic or semi automatic machinery.
World Leather - 01 - Feb/Mar 2008
Pre-finishing and Finishing Part 2: Padding Techniques
The application of finishing products by means of padding may be carried out manually, possibly with some mechanical assistance or with automatic or semi automatic machinery.
World Leather - 01 - Feb/Mar 2008
Adhesion and leather finishing
Over and above the choice of binders, pigments and other finishing auxiliaries, the integrity of the finish is highly dependent upon the adhesion of the finish to the substrate, the coalescence of each finishing application within that film, and the inter
World Leather - 01 - Feb/Mar 2008
The manufacture and control of water-resistant leather
Many factors must be taken into account when manufacturing water-resistant leathers. This includes both the raw materials selection, and the processing to the finished state. Care must be taken to ensure that the achievements gained by careful materials procurement and leather manufacturing techniques are not diminished by inappropriate works practices.
World Leather - 01 - Feb/Mar 2008
Pre-finishing and finishing: Part 1 Buffing
Buffing is a pre-finishing operation designed to ready the leather surface for the application of finishing products, and to determine specific appearance as well as certain surface characteristics. It is a process of abrasion to refine the grain or to remove part of it. The flesh side of leather may also be buffed, cleaning the flesh and helping to achieve uniform substance. Historically, experienced leather workers were needed to manually present the leather pieces to abrasive wheels. Modern methods use complex rotary machines which can produce precise results. Only limited operator skill and experience is required to feed such machines but extensive knowhow is needed to set their work parameters to produce the desired results.
World Leather - 01 - Feb/Mar 2008
Leather drying and conditioning: Conditioning - Staking - Milling
The conditioning of leather is the process of bringing its moisture content to the level required for the staking operation. Raising the moisture content brings back fibre structure elasticity and allows the fibres to move freely against each other. Repeated multidirectional tension and bending forces as applied in staking can then make the leather soft and supple. Depending upon the characteristics of the leather there is an upper limit upon the reintroduced moisture level. This is because any subsequent drying to equilibrium condition may lead to renewed hardening or “seizing” of the fibres, and to losing the desired softness. Conditioning is a consequence of the need to “dry out” dyed leathers completely if an acceptable uniformity of water content across the leather is to be obtained.
World Leather - 01 - Feb/Mar 2008
Leather drying and conditioning:Radiation drying
Two types of radiation drying have been adopted: • High frequency for removing moisture and water based finish drying • Infrared for finish drying A third type, microwave generated radiation, was developed for leather drying but proved to be uneconomical and impractical for the purpose.
World Leather - 01 - Feb/Mar 2008
Fatliquors and fatliquoring:a brief insight Part 2
The history of leather-making, the development and functions of fatliquoring and the definition of a fatliquor were discussed in Part 1 of this paper, published in World Leather October 2007. Part 2 continues the overview of this complex subject, providing insight into the fatliquoring process, and the avoidance of problems within applications.
World Leather - 01 - Feb/Mar 2008
Companies act to keep chromium VI out
The problem of chromium VI does not appear to go away, and is being taken very seriously by fashion groups, especially those selling children's footwear. When health matters – and especially children's health – are considerations, any concerns of the cons
World Leather - 03 - May 2008
Back to Basics: A Framework for Leather Manufacture - Essay 22
Leather drying and conditioning: Paste drying
World Leather - 08 - Dec/Jan 2007
The structural upgrading of leather: A new micro-sphere application
The use of thermo-expandable microspheres in the retanning process for structural upgrading of collagen is a technology that opens up completely new possibilities. These opportunities include improvement in leather quality, and in turn achieve higher yields in terms of area utilisation with a more regular surface appearance.
World Leather - 07 - Nov 2007
Back to Basics: A Framework for Leather Manufacture — Essay 21
Leather drying and conditioning: Vacuum drying
World Leather - 07 - Nov 2007
Back to Basics: A Framework for Leather Manufacture – Essay 20
Leather drying and conditioning: Toggle drying
World Leather - 06 - Oct 2007
Fatliquors and fatliquoring: a brief insight Part 1
Part 1 of this paper discusses the history of leather-making, the development and functions of fatliquoring and the definition of a fatliquor.
World Leather - 06 - Oct 2007
Back to Basics: A Framework for Leather Manufacture - Essay 19
Leather drying and conditioning
World Leather - 05 - Aug/Sept 2007
Back to Basics: A Framework for Leather Manufacture - Essay 19
Leather drying and conditioning
World Leather - 05 - Aug/Sept 2007
The application of modern biotechnology methods and the manufacture of quality leathers
The increased use of biotechnology methods by leading chemical supply companies is impacting the way that leather is produced today. Changes have resulted in improvements to the repeatability of processing, reductions in cost, and a decrease in the environmental footprint along with improvements in leather quality.
World Leather - 05 - Aug/Sept 2007
Back to Basics: A framework for leather manufacture. Essay 18
Leather drying and conditioning: The physics of drying.
World Leather - 04 - June/July 2007
Back to Basics - A framework for leather manufacture: Essay 17 Part 4
Dry, flat and extended leathers: Part 4. From the wet state to dry pre-finished condition
World Leather - 03 - May 2007
Zero formaldehyde resin retanning agents
Loosely applied definitions are a problem in the industry and there are many products that provide neither selective filling nor have this chemistry base.
World Leather - 02 - April 2007
Back to Basics: A framework for leather manufacture
Dry, flat and extended leathers - Part 3. Developing the properties of first-time dried leathers.
World Leather - 02 - April 2007
Back to Basics: A framework for leather manufacture. Essay 17, Part 2
Dry, flat and extended leathers: The role of strain within the drying cycle; and the effects of stress within the drying cycle.
World Leather - 01 - Feb/Mar 2007
Solar reflective (cool) leather
A new technology for leather has been developed to reduce the build up of solar heat and provide the level of comfort consumers expect from a natural product.
World Leather - 01 - Feb/Mar 2007
The hydrophobing of chrome-free leather
Nowadays, hydrophobic qualities in high quality leather are demanded for many fields of application. These properties range from the so-called ‘pearl’ effect through to ‘waterproofness’, as given by classical impregnation. However, requirements for good waterproofing include water resistance throughout the whole leather cross-section and reduced water uptake. These characteristics have to remain durable under static and dynamic conditions whilst at the same time the leathers should show reasonable water vapour permeability. This is to ensure a high wearing comfort for shoe upper leathers and sitting comfort for upholstery leather.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2006
Fatliquoring: the heart of the wet end
Fatliquoring is carried out to impart softness and flexibility to leather by adding lubricating products during wet end processing. The fatty matter introduced into the skin acts as lubricant, and helps the fibres to slide against each other. The process also improves the physical and mechanical properties of the leather.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2006
The theory and practice of fatliquoring
Fatliquoring is an important step in the process of leather manufacture, as it is intended to lubricate the leather fibres. This results in softness and pliability and, at the same time, improves the mechanical properties of leathers.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2006
Neutralisation: the key to successful retannage, dyeing and fatliquoring
The main purpose of the neutralisation process in the production of chrome-tanned leathers is to reduce the acidity throughout the hide or skin structure. This is to enable the retanning, dyeing and fatliquoring processes to be carried out successfully. I
World Leather - Oct 2006
A new generation of washable leather
Reactive dyes for wet blue and wet white.
World Leather - Oct 2006
Automobile leather manufacture: Part 2
Practical considerations for the production of wet white.
World Leather - Oct 2006
A practical evaluation of replacement white retanning syntans
This study presents the findings from an evaluation made on commercial replacement syntans.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2006
The Machine Minder: Drying efficiently in the finishing department
As far as its external appearance goes, the drying tunnel of today is much the same as the drying tunnel of 20 or 30 years ago. but, although these are simple machines, they are by no means unsophisticated.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2006
Technologies to improve the useful area of leather
The manufacturing of leather is facing diverse challenges including pressure from the eco-toxicity point of view, in the form of stringent new regulations. The measures necessary to deal with these issues add to the cost pressure that tanners are experien
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2006
Technologies to improve the useful area of leather
The manufacturing of leather is facing diverse challenges including pressure from the eco-toxicity point of view, in the form of stringent new regulations. The measures necessary to deal with these issues add to the cost pressure that tanners are experien
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2006
Technologies to improve the useful area of leather
The manufacturing of leather is facing diverse challenges including pressure from the eco-toxicity point of view, in the form of stringent new regulations. The measures necessary to deal with these issues add to the cost pressure that tanners are experien
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2006
VOCs in the tanning sector
The solvents used during finishing operations represent the main source of Volatile Organic Carbons (VOC) for tanneries.
World Leather - May 2006
Improving the quality and performance of shoe upper leathers
The quality and available style rages of shoes made almost anywhere in the world has steadily improved over the years. Peter Jessop from Stahl discusses the products available to improve the leather used for shoe uppers.
World Leather - May 2006
Otzi died with his boots on
In 1991 a deep frozen corpse was discovered at 3,210 metres on top of a mountain on the border between Austria and Italy. He has been nicknamed Otzi and has been the subject of intense scientific research. The ancient footwear fascinated Petr Hlavacek from Zlin's Thomas Bata University who has reconstructed Otzi's boots.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2006
The use of micro-balls for low density finishing
A look at the use of micro-balls for low density finishing and better aesthetics for embossed leather.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2005
Upgrading - keeping leather's elegance
A look at different possibilies for upgrading leather.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2005
Buyer’s view: Lantal
Travel has become an integral part of modern life and whilst people may think about routes, prices, times and even the most comfortable clothing to wear, the type of seat they are going to sit in is probably never even considered. Fortunately, Lantal Text
World Leather - Nov 2005
The real cost of a kilo of salt
The following paper provides an overview of a different approach to tanning. The technique is managed in the ‘non-swelling’ pH zone, and thus eliminates the need for salt within the conventional acid pickle. The fibre stabilisation provided – somewhat sim
World Leather - Nov 2005
Optimum chrome tanning of hides and modified Thrublu process for lime-split hides
Chrome tanning for a long time enjoyed a unique position amongst tanners and almost 90% of leather produced is chrome tanned. A number of studies have been published suggesting that Chromium(III) itself may be toxic at higher levels and Chromium(VI) is a
World Leather - Nov 2005
Back to Basics: Modifying the skin structure & Hides and skins and mechanical forces
Essay 1: Before first-time drying and the formation of a flat stable substrate, the conversion of hides and skins into leather can be viewed as two distinct stages: the removal of unwanted skin components and the location of specific materials within the
World Leather - Nov 2005
Back to Basics: Modifying the skin structure & Hides and skins and mechanical forces
Essay 1: Before first-time drying and the formation of a flat stable substrate, the conversion of hides and skins into leather can be viewed as two distinct stages: the removal of unwanted skin components and the location of specific materials within the
World Leather - Nov 2005
The milling drum – from blunt instrument to sophisticated process vessel
There are several areas in tannery machinery where the application of modern technology seems to have been an over-elaboration. The milling drum, however, is a real exception, where the application of modern sensors, control technology and automated handl
World Leather - Oct 2005
How to make perfect patent leather
When demand is strong, as is the case today, tanners and finishing units that have the expertise to produce leather finished with a well proven patent coating system will have experienced and overcome the many application and performance difficulties that
World Leather - Oct 2005
Hides and skins: Physical change and effects within chemical processing
The forces applied to skins in wet chemical processing relate to the type of processing vessel and its internal configuration. These forces can be viewed as constant when processing at uniform loadings, float levels, speed of rotation and time. We take a look how the way these forces act will vary as the skin physically changes.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2005
Hides and skins: Physical change and effects within chemical processing
The forces applied to skins in wet chemical processing relate to the type of processing vessel and its internal configuration. These forces can be viewed as constant when processing at uniform loadings, float levels, speed of rotation and time. We take a look how the way these forces act will vary as the skin physically changes.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2005
Hides and skins: Physical change and effects within chemical processing
The forces applied to skins in wet chemical processing relate to the type of processing vessel and its internal configuration. These forces can be viewed as constant when processing at uniform loadings, float levels, speed of rotation and time. We take a look how the way these forces act will vary as the skin physically changes.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2005
Hides and skins: Temperature and physical change
This article takes a look at the profound influence temperature has on the physical properties of hides and skins within every stage of leather manufacture.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2005
Hides and skins: Temperature and physical change
This article takes a look at the profound influence temperature has on the physical properties of hides and skins within every stage of leather manufacture.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2005
Hides and skins: Temperature and physical change
This article takes a look at the profound influence temperature has on the physical properties of hides and skins within every stage of leather manufacture.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2005
The influence of first time drying on the characteristics and performance of leather
In leather making, the influence of strain within first time drying is very significant. The effects are readily observed in practice, but the rationale is less easy to define. This article presents findings from a series of structured investigations into factors that are involved in drying, and how these relate to leather behaviour and characteristics.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2005
The influence of first time drying on the characteristics and performance of leather
In leather making, the influence of strain within first time drying is very significant. The effects are readily observed in practice, but the rationale is less easy to define. This article presents findings from a series of structured investigations into factors that are involved in drying, and how these relate to leather behaviour and characteristics.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2005
Colorimetry in the finishing process
Worldwide-web-supported system for colorimetry and colour formulation can be used to complement expertise in colour standardisation and formulation. This means in practice that there is no longer any need to send data or colour samples halfway round the w
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2005
Colorimetry in the finishing process
Worldwide-web-supported system for colorimetry and colour formulation can be used to complement expertise in colour standardisation and formulation. This means in practice that there is no longer any need to send data or colour samples halfway round the w
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2005
Innovations for the upgrading of automotive leathers
Advances in technology enable higher quality finished products based on hides that are not of the best quality. There are two main factors that have meant that the upgrade of leather is now even more critical to the leather manufacturer, and indeed, canno
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2005
Innovations for the upgrading of automotive leathers
Advances in technology enable higher quality finished products based on hides that are not of the best quality. There are two main factors that have meant that the upgrade of leather is now even more critical to the leather manufacturer, and indeed, canno
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2005
A practical evaluation of acrylic resins
This study describes a method for evaluating commercial acrylic resins as used in retannage. By means of in-house tests, this technique can prove useful to tanneries in the selection of resin retanning agents that, from a cost-effectiveness point of view,
World Leather - June/July 2005
Corrected or non-corrected grain? FILK-QMA-1201 — a method to evaluate finished leather
The main objective of grain correction of leathers is to remove surface defects. If the defects are slight, then buffing can be very light, so that only a small amount of the grain is removed by abrasion.
World Leather - April 2005
Choosing the correct base coat resin
Before developing a new finished leather, the tanner needs a great deal of information about the characteristics of the finished product if the leather is to match requirements completely and profitably.
World Leather - April 2005
A practical evaluation of dyestuffs
In recent years, following increases in the price of raw materials and chemicals, the competition of new markets such as China and India, and the introduction of ever stricter laws on pollution and environmental impact, it has become
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2005
Finishing waterproof leather
Interest in waterproof leather originated from the military. Soldiers are required to be active in all kinds of terrain and weather conditions and so the boots they wear must be sufficiently waterproof to protect their feet even in the wettest of environm
World Leather - Oct 2004
Bating: gaining area while retaining cutting values
It is almost 100 years since Otto Röhm introduced the first industrial application of an enzymatic product. This was the bating process of animal hides within leather production, the enzymes being derived from pancreatic glands. This can be seen
World Leather - Oct 2004
Leather conservation in Africa
Some people get all the luck. The phone rings and someone says: “You remember the gilt leather frieze in the Drawing Room? Well, we’ve just come to the end of a large restoration project and there is some money left…”
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2004
The evolution of garment leathers
The demand for leather clothing seems to have diminished in recent years. Whether this is due to market saturation during its heyday, or people becoming bored with the comparatively small range of colours and styles and limited end use applications, or a
World Leather - May 2004
Leathers for leathergoods
Ask people to name a leathergoods article and they will most likely answer “handbag” or “wallet”, but when you start digging you realise just how many different products there are.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2004
The benefits of silicones in leather finishing
Silicon is a natural substance, constituting 27.7% of the earth’s crust. It can be converted into an array of silicon based polymers called silicones. Many of these silicone polymers are of interest to the leather industry, in both wet end chemistry and f
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2004
Microscopical studies in leather manufacture. Part 4 of 4: Finishing
The coatings produced in leather finishing are generally resin polymers or protein based applied using water as the medium. These finishes also contain other components such as pigments, dyes and matting agents to adjust the appearance of the leather.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2004
Back to basics: Part 7 of 9. Retanning, dyeing and softening
It is not possible to build the exact properties required into the leathers during the tanning operation. This applies in particular to chrome leathers, so it is common practice to develop the leather character by further wet processing of the shaved good
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2002
Where does leather finishing really begin?
Tanners need to select the liming, tannage and retannage that will produce leather to the required specification and finishers make a compatible finish that provides the surface enhancement, selection improvement and degree of surface protection the custo
World Leather - Oct 2003
The application and properties of high tech aqueous top coats
There is an increasing interest in water-based top coat systems in the leather industry. Traditionally, NC and organic CAB lacquers have been the product groups requiring the greatest amount of organic solvents and are therefore the primary target for sol
World Leather - Oct 2003
Microscopical studies in leather manufacture - Part 3 of 4: Post tanning
The post tanning processes largely dictate the physical characteristics of a leather such as strength, softness extensibility and colour.
World Leather - Oct 2003
Natural and artificial ageing of upholstery leather
A problem for any manufacturer is that a guarantee period for the product must be taken into account although the precise conditions of use are unknown. Test methods are therefore required which simulate the conditions of use, and the changes which occur
World Leather - June/July 2003