Smit & Zoon promises sustainable tanning solutions
With a long-established background in retannage, fatliquoring and syntans, Smit & Zoon, a seventh-generation, family-owned business based in the Netherlands, has strengthened its portfolio of products over recent years. In 2017 it acquired further wet-end and finishing proficiency with Codyeco, giving access to more fashion-based markets. In its latest technology launch, it has introduced new sustainable leather tanning solutions that it claims can be a gamechanger for the leather industry. World Leather spoke to Smit & Zoon chief executive, Hans van Haarst, about this development.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2020
Smit & Zoon promises sustainable tanning solutions
With a long-established background in retannage, fatliquoring and syntans, Smit & Zoon, a seventh-generation, family-owned business based in the Netherlands, has strengthened its portfolio of products over recent years. In 2017 it acquired further wet-end and finishing proficiency with Codyeco, giving access to more fashion-based markets. In its latest technology launch, it has introduced new sustainable leather tanning solutions that it claims can be a gamechanger for the leather industry. World Leather spoke to Smit & Zoon chief executive, Hans van Haarst, about this development.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2020
Antibacterial properties of leathers, natural tannins and their interactions with shoe bacteria
Tannins are high molecular weight polyphenols, naturally synthesised by plants to defend themselves
against biotic and abiotic stress factors. Their role as antioxidant, antibiotic and antibacterial agents has
been known for many years among agriculture, animal nutrition, pharma, and cosmetics industries. If
tannins can also perform antibacterial activity in vegetable-tanned leather, this effect could be very
interesting for all the applications in which the leather, when it comes into contact with sweat and
bacteria, becomes a solution to reduce hyperhidrosis (excessive sweating) and bromhidrosis
(unpleasant odour).
The goal of the study was the assessment of the antibacterial activity of vegetable tanned leathers with
natural tannins to produce articles in direct contact with human skin and, therefore, their effect on
sweat, bacterial growth and metabolite production. Currently, in the European Union, it is prohibited to
claim tannins as antibacterial substances. In view of the scientific evidence presented, Silvateam has
started the authorisation process for the registration of tannins as antibacterial active substances, in
accordance with the Regulation (EU) N.528/2012 concerning making them available on the market and
the use of biocidal products.
World Leather - Jun/July 2020
Leather in the automotive interior of the future
Lectra’s automotive conference in March had as its main focus how the significant changes
this industry is going through – which include the development of electric-powered vehicles
and the advancements in autonomous driving features – will change the way automotive
interiors are designed and made. Opinions were divided on what the impact will be on
leather’s position in this sector.
World Leather - Apr/May 2019
Lexus-inspired sports shoe
A new handmade shoe from sports brand Norman Walsh takes its
inspiration from automotive brand Lexus, including its use of
upholstery leather in the upper.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2018
Challenges in China around VOCs and leather’s smell
New legislation in China imposes strict limits on emissions in car interiors, changing the requirements
original equipment manufacturers face when testing automotive leather. In turn, this will have an impact
on automotive leather manufacturers. Leather chemicals company Lanxess has shared details of some
of the work it has done to help tanners respond effectively.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2018
Billy Tannery bangs the drum for goat leather
Set up in 2017 to put to good use goatskins that would otherwise have been
wasted, Billy Tannery’s latest project is a sneaker made from its vegetable-tanned
kid leather.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2018
Leather is key to ‘Ten Best Interiors’
WardsAuto’s 2018 list of the best vehicle interiors includes cars, jeeps and
cross-over vehicles from North American, Asian and European brands, but
what they have in common is their use of leather as a preferred material.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2018
A bright future for Lear
The chief executive of automotive seating developer Lear Corporation, Ray
Scott, feels the company is well placed to capitalise on the opportunities
presented by existing and emerging trends in the automotive industry.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2018
Consistent quality
Not everything about being the biggest tanning group in the world is
easy, JBS Couros states, but it is pleased to be able to offer furniture
companies consistency in the quality of its finished upholstery leathers.
World Leather - Jun/July 2018
Cortina’s secret weapon
Cortina Leather has built a strong partnership with Crypton, a provider of stain-, moisture- and odourresistant
solutions, and helped it adapt its technology to work on leather. Cortina has served the furniture
market for 115 years, but this breakthrough has enhanced the popularity of its easy-clean leathers among
furniture companies, especially those making product for use in high-traffic public spaces.
World Leather - Jun/July 2018
Live and let live
Even if market demand went through the roof, there are too few hides in the world for leather to be the
only material of choice for all the footwear, seats, clothes, bags and belts that people buy and use. Other
materials are a must, and always have been. A consensus may be starting to build in the leather industry
that it is fair enough to try to live side by side with alternative materials, but only if they treat leather with
the respect it deserves.
World Leather - Jun/July 2018
Unavoidable impact
Furniture manufacturers have a wide range of materials options available to
them. While no upholstery fabric is free from environmental impact, leather
comes out well in a comparison against synthetic and natural fibres.
World Leather - Jun/July 2018
In a different league
A decision to stop supplying leather for footwear and move into furniture was a matter of economic
necessity for Moore & Giles. A quarter of a century on, the US Virginia-based stockist of high-end
upholstery leather has cemented a prominent place for itself in the furniture market. It is now playing its
part in educating new generations of furniture brands and designers in the beauty and benefits of leather.
World Leather - Jun/July 2018
Furniture that lasts a lifetime
Well known automotive leather manufacturer Boxmark has had a successful first year
serving the North American furniture upholstery market and is confident of being able to
grow this segment of its business beyond the 5% it commands at the moment.
World Leather - Jun/July 2018
A wearable technology for leather products
Evolution Leather Consulting, a start-up from Turkey but based in London,
has patented a process for producing photoluminescent leather and is
working with a tanner to develop a new range called GloTech Leather.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2018
Industry 4.0 will lead Lectra to big R&D investment
Leather-cutting technology provider Lectra has said it will invest 10% of its revenues in research and
development between 2017 and 2019 to help its customers establish “connected manufacturing”
operations. It used the third edition of its Automotive Leather conference in Bordeaux in April to introduce
this idea to customers in the leather industry.
World Leather - Apr/May 2017
Cheaney’s customers are spoilt for choice
Men’s footwear brand Joseph Cheaney has launched a customisation initiative with
1.2 million possible permutations, giving customers the chance to own a truly unique
pair of handcrafted shoes.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2016
Chamois leather process based on rubber seed oil, and rationalisation of the oxidation stage
Chamois leather has unique uses, including high quality gasoline filtration, gloves, garments, and cleaning and drying of
optical equipment, spectacles, windows, vehicle, jewellery, and silverware.
Indonesia is a rubber producing country with the largest rubber plantations in the world. Here, it produces rubber seeds
from about 1,500 kg/hectare of land, and this resource has not been utilised optimally. It was considered that rubber seed
oil could be used for chamois leather tanning, and an investigation took place to see if:
[1] rubber seed oil could be used as chamois leather tanning agent
[2] the time consuming oxidation stage could be rationalised.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2016
End of an era
Focus on: Footwear. Stuart Weitzman is to step down as creative director
of his eponymous brand as Coach begins to stamp its
mark on the brand it purchased in 2015.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2016
The secrets of the rue Marbeuf
Focus on: Footwear. A workshop that luxury shoe brand Berluti set up in the rue Marbeuf in
the heart of Paris in the 1940s is still the place that brand’s most
discerning (and patient) customers go to for handcrafted bespoke shoes.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2016
A revamped industry
Focus on: Footwear. A senior figure in the industry in Spain has said changes in the footwear supply chain are
revolutionising the way the industry works. Five years from now, he warns, the industry will be
unrecognisable; the new ways companies make and sell shoes are set to have a big impact. Tanneries
supplying the footwear producers will need to be aware of the possible changes in the supply chain.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2016
Keep it in the family
Focus on: Footwear. Family-run business Horween Leather Company has been tanning leather for
over 100 years. It has developed strong relationships with several footwear
brands who use its leather to add a touch of luxury to their products.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2016
India: a shoo-in for leather footwear?
Focus on: Footwear. With several German footwear companies now choosing to manufacture their leather shoes
in India, World Leather examines whether the country is capable of rising to the challenge.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2016
Kering’s unfair burden on leather
A report in which luxury group Kering assesses progress against its own sustainability targets carries mixed
news. Some of the work the group has done is excellent, and its offer to share its findings with the rest of the
industry is admirable, but however it places far too great a share of its carbon footprint on leather.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2016
Savoir-faire laid bare
Luxury leathergoods brands owe their success to the army of artisans who use their skill and know-how to
create beautiful bags and other products. Most of the time, their hard work takes place out of the spotlight
and away from the public eye. However, as this article shows, at least two major luxury groups have taken
steps recently to give their craftsmen and women some richly deserved recognition.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2016
Exotic appeal
Most of the time, luxury leathergoods brands, like the rest of the leather industry, use sheep, goat and
especially bovine raw material to make their products. For almost all of them, though, exotic leather holds an
enduring appeal. This sets out a range of very special supply chain considerations.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2016
On home soil
There is much talk of ‘in-sourcing’, bringing the manufacture of finished goods back to brands’
home markets, but in the last few years, luxury group Hermès has quietly gone beyond just
talking about it and has opened several new leathergoods factories in France.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2016
Not ‘perfect’, but beautiful
Thanks to growing demand for authenticity, simplicity, naturalness and honesty, trends experts believe consumers are on the point of accepting that the rugged look of lightly finished leather is beautiful, ‘imperfections’ included.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2016
Made in Italy, 100%
Leathergoods manufacturers are among those who have benefited from the worldwide success of the
‘Made in Italy’ label. But it turns out that some bags are more ‘Made in Italy’ than others.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2016
Times are tough for luxury brands
Several of Europe’s top luxury fashion brands have blamed a drop in tourists visiting the region for a
slowdown in their revenues. World Leather examines if the statistics back up this theory.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2016
A treatment to save historic leathers
Acid deterioration is a major problem in the conservation of historic leathers. Many different
techniques have been used in the past to save these valuable items, and some products have
merit in consolidating the structure and possibly improving the appearance. None of these
approaches have offered the chance to reliably create an improvement in these articles in
terms of leather related performance and the offer of improved longevity.
However, following extensive investigations, a new technique has been developed that provides
significant collagen stabilising for these deteriorated leathers and acid-buffering effects, measurable
as an increase in shrinkage temperature and a reduction in acidity within these leathers.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2015
The language of luxury
Focus on: Aviation Leather. Aside from its performance characteristics, leather is prolific across the global air fleet for its aesthetic and tactile qualities. Leading design agencies tell us why airlines favour it to convey brand message and quality.
World Leather - Apr/May 2015
Chasing ‘the Holy Grail’
Focus on: Aviation Leather. Designers have suggested ways tanneries can improve the leathers they offer. But reducing weight and adding flame resistance while maintaining performance is no easy task.
World Leather - Apr/May 2015
The Museum of Leathercraft: Hidden treasures revealed
The Museum of Leathercraft, founded by the
Leathergoods and Saddlers Manufacturers
Association in 1946, has been held in store by
Northampton Borough Council since 1977. It is
unique in its purpose, to serve as the only museum
dedicated to a global study and appreciation of the
leather industry.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2015
The 29th India International Leather Fair 2015
The 29th India International Leather Fair was on the last day of January in
Chennai. At this event both Indian and international companies
in the fields of chemicals, machinery, raw materials, components
and technology, footwear, leather garments, leather goods and
accessories participate annually.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2015
Extra complexity after Lear makes its move
Relationships in the automotive supply chain have always been interesting, not least for tanners, who usually sell
to original equipment manufacturers (OEMs) but supply finished leather or cut parts to specialist tier-one suppliers
of seats, steering wheels and other car interior components. In 2014, one of these specialist tier-ones, Lear
Corporation, added extra complexity and extra tension to this panorama by acquiring a major, global automotive
tanning group, Eagle Ottawa. This article examines Lear’s reasons for taking this step and offers a view of the likely
reaction among other tanners and tier-ones, and among OEMs in the months and years following the deal.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2015
The rise of automotive leather
As car manufacturers around the world report record sales and expanding
production, the future looks rosy for their leather suppliers. However, it is
not all plain sailing: battles over raw material are set to intensify and
leather will have work to keep its place in the hearts of consumers.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2015
Committed to calf
Paris-based leathergoods brand Maison Thomas is small enough to feel the pain of recent
reductions in the availability and increase in price of calfskins and calf leather, but its commitment
to the material it has chosen for its high-end bags and purses remains unshaken.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2014
Positive impact on communities
Raw materials development projects in Italy and Latin America by specialty leather chemicals manufacturer Silvateam have had important social impacts and represent
good examples of corporate social responsibility in practice.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2013
Fashion brands and a changing supply chain for exotic leather
Exotic leather handbags, especially those manufactured from crocodile and ostrich, have for many years proven their ever-increasing popularity in the luxury market. It
simply made financial sense to focus on crocodile leather. This is because in terms of value it is top of the pile, with ostrich following a close second
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2013
Swimming with the tide
Footwear brands are shunning regular materials and turning to salmon,
cod and other fish to add texture and strength to their designs.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2013
Caviar and exotic sturgeon leather
The sturgeon is one of the most ancient and valuable fish in the world. They live exclusively in the northern hemisphere, North America, Europe and Asia and belong to one of the oldest families of bony fishes. Sturgeons are diadromous fish that spend most of their lives in the sea and migrate to fresh water to breed. The first fossil
records dates date back to 65 million years ago1. There are over 20 sturgeon species that are known (Acipenseriformes) that encompass two families: Acipenseridae (sturgeons) and Polyodontidae (paddlefish).
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2013
Battle for a cutting edge continues
Laser-cutting technology providers Gerber Scientific and Lectra have both given detailed insights into their visions for the future. As both companies include car seat manufacturers and automotive tanneries who supply them among their customers, what these companies have to say is of importance to this niche part of the leather industry.
World Leather - June/July 2013
Squeaky clean without the squeak
Chemicals applied to automotive leather at the finishing stage to make it stain-resistant have often produced an unacceptably loud squeak-effect as an unintended consequence. Italian leather chemicals manufacturer GSC has worked on a quieter solution to the problem for use in car seats and automotive.
World Leather - June/July 2013
X-Lite - Aesthetic lightweight leather
Several important trends have been observed in the tanning industry during recent years. One of those is the reduction in both availability and quality of hides, leading to a greater demand for leather “upgrading”. Another increasing trend, especially regarding leather destined for use in the transportation industry, concerns weight reduction without compromising the aesthetic characteristics. By Dr. Marc Hombeck, Alexander Hippel, Christoph Roth and Christopher Tysoe from Lanxess, Germany.
World Leather - June/July 2013
Hair styling
The two entrepreneurs from São Paulo who founded
specialist leather design consultancy 4 Stagioni have
toured major exhibitions this spring to show off their
Sagarana collection of leathergoods. The bags in the
collection combine the panache of Brazil’s biggest city
with elements of the country’s wilder side.
World Leather - Apr/May 2011
A feel for the forest
A special focus of the next edition of Le Cuir À Paris will
be leathers that have their roots in the forests of the
northern and southern hemispheres
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2010
The manufacture of parchment and vellum
In the last 1000-plus years little has changed in the manufacturing of parchment. The main differences between
then and now is the use of certain chemicals and modern machines make it possible to flesh and split the skins mechanically.
World Leather - 06 - Oct 2008
Music, love, life: three reasons why these crocodiles shed no tears
A rare breed of crocodile, the crocodylus moreletii’s numbers had reduced to levels bordering on the endangered before the leather industry stepped in to help with preservation initiatives. That may sound strange, but through a joint venture involving investors, the state protection agency for crocodiles, Cocomex, and Eduardo Huber, an artisan in leatherwork, a new brand of leathergoods made exclusively from the hides of Morelet crocodiles, Cocolé, has been formed.
World Leather - 08 - Dec/Jan 2007
Prevent Leather Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina
The need for a new tannery within the ASA-Prevent Group was conceived in 2003, with work on the new venture beginning in October 2004. This new tannery is now well-established in the town of Visoko located some 25km outside the capitol Sarajevo and was custom-built for the conversion of up to 2,000 hides per day into automotive leathers.
World Leather - 07 - Nov 2007
Leather properties required in the moulding process
The current move towards the use of leather in computer
goods, household appliances, water sports and interior
décor may lead to adaptations in the leather properties
being required as leather-moulding techniques are used in the manufacture of these products.
World Leather - 04 - June/July 2007
Yak leather - a rough diamond with inner strength and beauty
Yak is not a leather that often crosses the tanner’s path, yet there are just over 14 million of them in the world today and they continue to play a vital role in many traditional societies in the world.
World Leather - 04 - June/July 2007
Parchment and vellum through the ages
Parchment is an ancient writing material made from processed skins, mostly from calves, sheep and goats. It was much more durable than papyrus, and was widely used until the arrival of paper in Europe around the twelfth century. From earliest times its use has been highly valued, not only for its suitability as a writing material, but also because it lasts almost indefinitely.
World Leather - 03 - May 2007
Solar reflective (cool) leather
A new technology for leather has been developed to reduce the build up of solar heat and provide the level of comfort consumers expect from a natural product.
World Leather - 01 - Feb/Mar 2007
The hydrophobing of chrome-free leather
Nowadays, hydrophobic qualities in high quality leather
are demanded for many fields of application. These
properties range from the so-called ‘pearl’ effect through
to ‘waterproofness’, as given by classical impregnation.
However, requirements for good waterproofing include water
resistance throughout the whole leather cross-section and
reduced water uptake. These characteristics have to remain
durable under static and dynamic conditions whilst at the same time the leathers should show reasonable water vapour
permeability. This is to ensure a high wearing comfort for shoe upper leathers and sitting comfort for upholstery leather.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2006
Winter is set to be a warm one
In spite of certain groups criticising the use of fur in fashion, it seems that consumer interest in fur clothing and accessories continues to grow.
World Leather - May 2006
Buyer’s view: Lantal
Travel has become an integral part of modern life and whilst people may think about routes, prices, times and even the most comfortable clothing to wear, the type of seat they are going to sit in is probably never even considered. Fortunately, Lantal Textiles has spent years optimising the comfort and design of transport upholstery fabrics so that the seat we spend hours in does not become an issue.
World Leather - Nov 2005
Land Rover: The iconic brand
Land Rover has become so well known it has become an iconic brand that stands for ‘go-anywhere’ capability coupled with luxury and a ‘country’ style. At Land Rover upholstery leather is a natural product which adds to the vehicle interior that extra special touch, feel and ambience which cannot be written into a specification.
World Leather - Oct 2005
How to make perfect patent leather
When demand is strong, as is the case today,
tanners and finishing units that have the
expertise to produce leather finished with a
well proven patent coating system will have
experienced and overcome the many
application and performance difficulties
that are associated with this type of
finish.
World Leather - Oct 2005
Innovations for the upgrading of automotive leathers
Advances in technology enable higher quality finished products based on hides that are not of the best quality. There are two main factors that have meant that the upgrade of leather is now even more critical to the leather manufacturer, and indeed, cannot be ignored in a market that is constantly under pressure from price and cost.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2005
Business profile: From diaphragm leather
The leather industry in the UK has largely disappeared over the past 20 years. A handful of major operators such as Scottish Leather Group and Pittards remain, but little else. There are, of course, smaller operations supplying niche markets with a specialised product. The Metropolitan Leather Company as one of the smallest, however, is rather different and has survived by specialising in a wide range of products for an even wider range of customers.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2005
Lizard-look leathers from chicken-paw skins
Millions of laying chickens come to the end of their life
each year. Most of these are sold for use in food
products, and in particular the paws (lower leg and
feet) when free of the skin are used for soap preparation.
World Leather - April 2005
At the cutting edge: clothing leathers
There are two quite different outlets for leather clothing, where, in addition to good tensile strength and resistance to tearing, very specific properties for protection are required. One area of use requires high protection against abrasion, the other a high level of heat and flame resistance.
World Leather - Nov 2004
Finishing waterproof leather
Interest in waterproof leather originated from the military. Soldiers are required to be active in all kinds of terrain and weather conditions and so the boots they wear must be sufficiently waterproof to protect their feet even in the wettest of environments.
World Leather - Oct 2004
At the cutting edge: gloving leathers
There are three main areas where special properties are demanded of gloving leathers: industrial gloves, fire fighters' gloves and gloves that protect against thermal risks.
World Leather - June/July 2004
Study and restoration of leather shoes from 18th Century burials
In 1991, when the pavement of the parish church of Sant Baldiri in Sant Boi de Llobregat, Barcelona, was replaced, three 18th Century graves were revealed. In one tomb a pair
of leather shoes was found; the following article describes the results of the analysis and restoration of the shoes.
World Leather - April 2004
The benefits of silicones in leather finishing
Silicon is a natural substance, constituting 27.7% of the earth’s crust. It can be converted into an array of silicon based polymers called silicones. Many of these silicone polymers are of interest to the leather industry, in both wet end chemistry and finishing.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2004
Orthopaedic leathers
Orthopaedic footwear is ideally made to order for an individual person and for a specific problem. The one-off nature determines the properties required of the leather. It has to be versatile, long lasting and non-allergenic. In particular, it must be more stretchy than normal to accommodate a protuding joint and still achieve good set.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2003
The ruminant stomach: not just sausages and animal food
The two outer layers of the stomach are of no interest to the leather industry. They may be viewed as the equivalent to the subcutis from hides and skins. The internal layer of the stomach - the gastric mucosa - is the part most suitable for the tanning industry and may be
compared with the corium.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2003
Porvair: addressing the footwear sector
During the late 1960s, Porvair used technology based on polyurethane to create a new material at 2.0-3.0mm for use in shoe uppers.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2002
