French heritage brand from 1754 to relaunch
Indian-born, Paris-based designer Ramesh Nair, an alumnus of luxury leathergoods houses Moynat and Hermès, among other high-end brands, is set to relaunch French heritage leather company Joseph Duclos (first established in 1754) in late September.
Joseph Duclos (1719-1764), a merchant and trader born in Toulouse, owned and operated the Manufacture Royale de Lectoure tannery, which secured royal warrants from King Louis XV for the quality of its leathers.
Pre-handbags, Mr Duclos’ leathers were highly coveted for furnishings and wall coverings, in addition to French military uniforms and footwear. The tannery ceased operations over 100 years ago.
Fast-forward to the twenty-first century and, backed by Monolith Investments chief executive and Centre Pompidou acquisitions committee member, Franck Dahan, plus guided by ex-Moynat executive Emmanuelle Voisin in the role of general manager, Joseph Duclos will primarily offer premium leather handbags, small leathergoods and fragrance this time around.
WWD suggested that the brand’s handbags will be priced at approximately €2,000 to €6,000 at retail, with some presented in limited editions.
“We’re doing bags that will last for generations,” the designer emphasised to the publication. “The craftsmanship is part of the creativity and that’s something we need to fight for.”
WWD especially highlighted Mr Nair’s evident appreciation for quality leathers, despite being himself vegetarian. He praised what he described as France’s strict anti-pollution laws and reputation for “flawless” hides (barbed-wire fences are prohibited in the country).
Ms Voisin told the fashion news outlet that the designer consistently displayed a particular passion for rare artisanry, in addition to exceptional standards of quality and execution.
What is more, Mr Nair revealed how he took great pains to recruit leatherworkers trained under the government sanctioned Les Compagnons du Devoir scheme, which has been responsible for passing on expert manual skills to students for over nine centuries in France. (One Les Compagnons du Devoir-trained leather artisan will reportedly have a permanent presence at the Joseph Duclos flagship boutique at 54 Rue du Fauborg Saint-Honoré in Paris, there to take and make special orders.)
Today’s Duclos-branded leather articles have been informed by the designer’s visits to museums, he said, with elements such as golden braids on eighteenth-century ceremonial military jackets inspiring pendulum-like closures.
Hand-moulded leather (inspired by historical gunpowder sacks) has also been incorporated into a soft flap messenger bag, whereas the design of the structured Diane handbag drew from eighteenth-century coin purses and was crafted using traditional French saddlery techniques, inclusive of exposed edges that have been hand-painted and -polished.
Scheduled to launch physically via its flagship on September 24, the brand’s small leathergoods and fragrance will be available to buy simultaneously through its website.
Image: Joseph Duclos.
