Start-up leans on Ecotan for ‘biodegradable’ shoes

04/03/2025
Start-up leans on Ecotan for ‘biodegradable’ shoes

Italian footwear brand Sneark has launched a range of ‘biodegradable’ trainers, using Ecotan leather.

Founder Lello Romano had worked as an architect for 20 years, but the covid pandemic and lockdowns made him reassess his career choice and resurrect an earlier dream to work in the footwear industry. “Even though I have built so many things in my life, I don’t want to die with regrets,” he said.

The leather is tanned gently without chemicals and the insoles are made from cork. Hemp is also used in the upper and the shoes are dyed with natural dyes.

When the shoes are at the end of their useful life, customers can return them for 20% off their next purchase. The uppers can be broken down and used as a bio-based fertilisers, and the rubber sole can be broken down using natural enzymes in a process taking 180 days.

The shoes are made by high-end shoe manufacturers in Tuscany and will retail for around €400. Although the price is high, they are to be looked at as investment pieces that will not go out of fashion, a spokesperson told Leatherbiz at the Micam footwear show in Milan (February 23 to 25).

At the co-located Lineapelle leather show, tanneries making Ecotan leather included KTM Leather, Pellegrini Group, Volpi Concerie, Antiba and Haas Tanneries.

The biocircular synthetic tannins in Ecotan, by Silvateam, are designed to work with chestnut, gallnuts and other extracts. They mimic the structure of natural tannins with a smaller, simpler molecule. While natural tannins are the primary tanning agents, additives, colours and finishes are required in the later stages of tanning. Silvateam partnered Biofin Leather (Gruppo Biokimica) to recommend finishing products that are in keeping with the requirements needed for biodegradability.