Trends presentations at Paris show’s Leather Fashion Breakfasts
29/07/2016
Described by the organisers as an exclusive event for leading fashion houses and designers of high-end leathergoods, shoes and garments, the Leather Fashion Breakfasts will take place each morning of the show at 10.30.
Claude Vuillermet, the fashion director of Première Vision Leather will reveal trends concepts for the autumn-winter 2017-2018 fashion season and will also show the colour palette for leather for the season and a selection of materials that exemplify the concepts well.
Ms Vuillermet has identified five “axioms” to define the mood of the season: ‘Take Lightly’; ‘Take The Wrong Way’; ‘Take Root’; ‘Take Pleasure and ‘Take (Too) Seriously’.
She explains that the first of these means to play down or “fluff up” ideas, making them “immaterial”. Here tanners will have to focus on producing leathers in “grey turned blue from the cold, frozen pastel green, delicately distilled pink or dusty beige”, while textures can be frosty, icy, “talc-like”, or with “blurred contrasts”.
‘Take The Wrong Way’, in contrast, denotes the sensations of caressing spines, raising hackles or grinding teeth. Colours that dominate here will be the colours of city lights, “flashing and aggressive”, while crumpled, pleated and stamped leathers will fit well.
The third ‘axiom’, ‘Take Root’, “seeks the corrosion of materials exposed to the elements,” Ms Vuillermet explains. Raw, earthy and delicate colours will be among those that dominate, as will “emotive pink, hammered copper and tender green”. Eroded, battered, excavated, worn and over-wrinkled surfaces will also be important.
For ‘Take Pleasure’, important materials will include leathers with “round and foamy consistencies”, while major colours will be the pink of Turkish delight, the brick red of quince jelly, sugary white and honey yellow.
Finally, with ‘Take (Too) Seriously’, hyper-customisation, theatrical demonstration and what Claude Vuillermet calls “spectacular ambiguity” are back. There will be “profound and lyrical demonstrative colours” such as ecclesiastical reds and purples, the green and pink of gemstones and the Italian Renaissance, rose gold and stamped copper.
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