Neil Kearney, general secretary of the Brussels-based ITGLWF, said that irresponsible European retailers and brands are putting the lives of garment workers at risk.

“The collapse of the nine-storey building which housed the Spectrum Sweater Industries and Shahriyar Fabrics Industries is a tragic example of the appalling negligence of European retailers and brands.

“The manufacturer broke every rule in the book. Health and safety was appalling. One worker is reported to have died three days before the collapse due to burns sustained from hot water from the factory boiler, and another has been in hospital for three months after being electrocuted when her clothing became entangled in wires.

“The most shocking allegation is that workers detected serious cracks in the building’s supporting columns in the early hours of April 11, about sixteen hours before the building caved in. When they reported the matter to management, they were told to continue production to meet an export deadline.”

According to Kearney, the factory had been built on a swamp without proper foundations. Originally a four-story building, five additional floors were added when the company expanded to accommodate a huge order from Europe. The company did not get planning permission, with media reports suggesting the owners were able to flout regulations because they were influential people.

The retailers involved are some of the top names from many European countries, including Zara, which is part of Spanish fashion distributor Inditex, Karstadt Quelle of Germany, Carrefour of France and Cotton Group of Belgium.