ModaPelle attracts more foreign buyers
The creativity of Italian tanners never ceases to impress, often delight and occasionally surprise with its skill and dash of bravado. Who else would laser cut calf nappa to resemble delicate floral lace, then take the trouble to embellish it with wool embroidery, heighten the aesthetic impact of an exotic print with glitter or splashes of metallic decoration, or create ‘rusty’ stained effects or ‘tyre tread’ patterns on leather?
This type of originality was well represented, along with essential and solidly commercial products, in autumn and winter 2003/04 collections shown at ModaPelle by Pitti Immagine in Florence, 25-26 September. Although primarily a showcase for Italian tanners, with strong representation from Santa Croce sull’Arno and other key Italian leather areas, this seventh edition of the leather industry’s preview event – and the third organised and promoted by Pitti Immagine – also included exhibitors from Finland, France, Spain, Italy, Iceland, the UK and Portugal.
Its significance was underlined by the impressive line-up of representatives from leading brands, including Christian Dior, Salvatore Ferragamo, Roberto Cavalli, Hugo Boss, Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, Giorgio Armani, Chanel, Jean Paul Gaultier and, from the USA, Donna Karan, Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren. While the overall drop in attendance of 10% against last year’s was attributed to the difficult economic situation in Italy, there was a considerable increase in foreign buyers. Out of a total of 2142 visitors, 461 came from abroad, a rise of 13%. In particular, there was a notable jump in US buyers, up from 30 to 111, with Germany, France, the UK and Japan accounting for another 160 visitors.
The new trends were revealed in the Spazio Ricerca, curated by Li Edelkoort, where the theme of ‘Animalism’ encompassed the soft, furry ‘Cuddling’, the traditional luxury of ‘Equestrian’, the primitive and romantic ‘Savage’ and the exotic fantasy of ‘Eccentric’. In addition, Natural Sensations, new colour and design innovations from vegetable-tanning specialists, the Vera Pelle Italiana Conciata al Vegetale, were outlined by the group’s consultant, Angelo Uslenghi, who highlighted warm earth tones, refined greys and blues plus refreshing candy colours and vibrant tones as key looks for the season.
