SLTC puts science and proof at centre of leather debate
The Society of Leather Technologists and Chemists conference on April 25 highlighted the growing importance of scientific validation, traceability and regulatory compliance in the leather sector.
In her welcome speech, SLTC president Deborah Taylor said tightening ESG legislation across Europe and beyond had made anecdotal claims and supply chain assurances insufficient, with companies now expected to support performance with verifiable data. “The modern leather industry must operate on verifiable data, radical transparency and undeniable scientific proof, and that is precisely why the SLTC matters more today than perhaps ever before.”
Presentations included leather’s role as a circular material, while stressing the need to substantiate this with measurable evidence. They also examined established processes, including chemical use, water and energy consumption and waste generation.
For this year’s keynote, The Procter Memorial Lecture, Dr Dietrich Tegtmeyer warned that tanners may be missing a major opportunity to improve both profitability and sustainability through the fuller use of collagen.
He noted that while the industry has focused on cleaner processes and wastewater management, a significant proportion of collagen from hides still ends up as waste. Dr Tegtmeyer called for a zero-waste approach, highlighting the potential to convert by-products such as fleshings and shavings into value-added materials, including animal feed, fertilisers, gelatine and advanced applications such as 3D printing.
Technical sessions covered circular economy research, including the use of by-products such as hair waste for protein extraction and bio-based retanning systems. PFAS detection was another focus, outlining the limitations of current screening methods and the implications for compliance.
The programme also questioned existing standards, including whether D65 lighting remains suitable for modern colour assessment.
Traceability emerged as a central theme. A pilot digital system presented by WWF Pakistan showed how supply chain transparency is becoming a baseline requirement.
At brand level, Mulberry outlined its sustainability strategy, including product longevity and its B Corp certification achieved in 2024.
Further sessions addressed fibre-based upgrading technologies and leather conservation, reflecting activity across the value chain.
You can read a review article of the conference in the next issue of World Leather magazine.
