Former Gucci creative director says ready-to-wear is dead
More than a year after stepping down from the role of creative director of Gucci, Sabato de Sarno is preparing to return to the public sphere. He has been working on a project with fashion magazine Vanity Fair for the Salone del Mobile exhibition in Milan (April 21-26).
This project is a curated exhibition called ‘Insieme’ (Together). Its aim is to celebrate Italian craftsmanship and the talented artisans behind it.
In the build-up to the exhibition, Vanity Fair ran an interview with Sabato de Sarno. This is the first major interview the designer has given since the end of his tenure at Gucci in February 2025.
He said these months away from the spotlight had given him a chance to reflect on the fashion industry. His conclusion is that the industry is too focused on “the superficial”.
He explained: “This all began when the fashion industry, or a large part of it, swapped real values for trends. Fundamental things, including sustainability, have become part of a focus on trends rather than “pillars for real change in the industry”, he said.
Critical of runway presentations “in sumptuous palaces, with amazing scenography and stars flying from Los Angeles to Paris in private jets”, he said the only way luxury brands can afford these displays is by charging exorbitant prices for their products.
This has had a grave consequence. “If you want to know the truth,” he added, “I honestly think that ready-to-wear is dead.”
Asked how he would resolve this, Sabato de Sarno said: “I believe in ‘Made in Italy’. I think it is possible to produce in Italy at a fair price. We have workshops and factories here that allow us to create excellence without exaggerating the cost. It is possible to rebuild ready-to-wear in Italy, based on our craftsmanship.”
