Leather key to €140m sustainable shoe vision, Portuguese body says

06/05/2022
An initiative spearheaded by Portuguese footwear, components and leather goods manufacturers’ association Apiccaps and the Portuguese Footwear Technological Centre (CTCP), both based in and around Porto, will see €140 million (roughly $148 million) invested in “sustainable solutions” for the local footwear industry over the next three years. 

Over 50% of these funds will be raised by the more than 100 businesses, institutions and research centres whom, led by Apiccaps and CTCP, together already form a project-specific consortium, with the remaining amount to be financed by the Portuguese government and the European Commission. 

While the development of “new” biomaterials, improved energy efficiency and water savings, traceability and a more streamlined, automated and technology-driven value chain were all singled out as areas for exploration following the investment, Apiccaps continues to believe that leather is “the best material on the market”, according to the organisation’s head of marketing and communications, Paulo Gonçalves, 

“Leather allows us to create durable shoes at a higher price, since there is no need to replace them as often,” Mr Gonçalves commented. “There is too much fuss over the issue of leather in fashion. Global consumption of meat has been growing steadily in recent years, so there is more leather on the market. We use the cowhide that the food industry discards; it’s a form of recycling and creating a circular economy.”

While Apiccaps also revealed that it is currently collaborating with around 20 specialists on the development of non-leather alternatives, intended as an option for those who do not eat meat, Mr Gonçalves emphasised that “vegan materials should not be mistaken for sustainability”.