GLCC meets in Hong Kong
06/04/2016
There were 18 representatives present in Hong Kong from ICHSLTA, ICT, and IULTCS. Agenda items included ongoing topics of common interest and a general discussion on increasing demands placed on the leather supply chain.
There are times to compete and times to cooperate, and the GLCC is focused on those areas where the leather manufacturing sector can best work together to defend leather as a material and find opportunities to promote leather value. The demands of the global brands from leather manufacturers were discussed under the general headings of transparency, traceability, environmental standards, chemical management, corporate social responsibility, and animal welfare.
It was clear on most of these topics that there is a need for the industry both to better understand what the global brands want and to educate the brands about what is being done and what is reasonably achievable on both a global and a local level. Some regions are well advanced to be able to deliver brand requirements, while other regions have more work to do.
On the topic of traceability, the position was expressed that some of what is being asked is often impossible to achieve because of the structure of the upstream part of the supply chain, besides being potentially commercially sensitive; it might be beneficial for the industry to provide some guidance regarding what we feel is acceptable to disclose.
On topics related to the environment and hazardous chemicals, while it is clear that the industry needs to comply with minimum acceptable standards, the issue was raised that elevating standards too high (although a potential competitive advantage for some regions) could have a negative impact globally on the perceived value of leather if those regions operating at acceptable levels were judged according to elevated standards.
On issues of social responsibility, the conclusion was that this was an area where it should be easier to find common ground globally; there should be universal agreement on ethical values. Animal welfare is currently a “hot topic”. While there is significant difference between regions because of animal husbandry practices, this is clearly an area where cooperation with the meat sector and education of the supply chain will be of benefit. The leather sector has little direct impact, but can exert a positive influence. It was concluded that a goal of the GLCC is to continue to work to find ways to better engage the brands and other stakeholders that support leather as a valued material.
The ICT updated the group on leather labeling standards and will compile recent regional changes via its website. The EU Leather Product Environmental Footprinting Pilot is progressing well under the leadership of Cotance and the next step is the evaluation of the draft rules in four volunteer tanneries. The draft rules will also require independent revision and validation. A portion of necessary funding for this activity has been pledged by several industry organisations but there is still a significant shortfall. Should the necessary funding not be found, the rules will not be validated and the project will fail. This will leave the allocation to leather of the impact of livestock rearing in the hands of other sectors, whose interests are not aligned with those of the leather sector.
UNIDO intends to update its schedule of national effluent and waste discharge limits, and requests industry to help with this,
The FAO-led LEAP project (Livestock Environmental Assessment and Performance) has completed its first three-year programme looking at allocation of carbon footprint to different animals. The second three-year project is now starting although funding is still being sought from national administrations and industry sectors to finance the whole programme which, subject to sufficient funding pledges, will include guidance on water footprinting, assessment of by-products and other subjects. These are of relevance to the leather industry as allocations will affect the position of leather in relation to alternate materials and the project will be monitored.
There is a need to better manage the information available and document the facts around the topic of chromium VI in leather. It was felt that further research on moisture and pH and their impact on analytical results, as well as further development of test methods that are more relevant to the risk of exposure during leather use, are needed. There is a need to collate some of the beneficial scientific information that is available and ensure it is readily accessible to the wider public. A newly funded doctoral programme at the University of Northampton aims to generate and publish such updated scientific data on chromium.
The group agreed that further discussion on minimum safety standards and safe handling of chemicals would be beneficial.
The next GLCC meeting will be organised by the ICSHLTA later in 2016.
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