IULTCS president says industry must look at itself in a new way
14/10/2009
The president of the International Union of Leather Technologists and Chemists Societies, Elton Hurlow, has said the leather industry should change the way it presents the material
In a speech at the IULTCS Congress in Beijing, which ran from October 11–14, Mr Hurlow said companies involved in the industry should describe leather as a component brand, as leather is the identifier of value. He explained: “Our industry takes a renewable natural raw material, which comes to us as another industry’s waste by-product, and we turn it into a durable, aesthetically pleasing, and versatile structural material highly valued by leading brands of consumer articles. Our industry at once resolves a disposal problem and simultaneously creates a highly valued and useful product.”
The industry’s secret, he explained, is its knowledge of and ability to work with collagen, which he referred to as one of nature’s most unique materials.
He said it was correct to describe leather as an intermediate product as it is typically a component of what the consumer buys. “I suggest we describe leather as a component brand, as leather is the identifier of value,” he said. “At retail, sales people always refer to their article as a leather jacket, a leather sofa, a leather shoe, or a car with leather interior. They add the word leather because it evokes a favourable emotional response in the mind of the consumer; it elicits feelings of aesthetic pleasure, it appeals to the visual, tactile and olfactory senses. The mind conjures expectations of performance and durability, and there is an overwhelming sense of intrinsic value. What a wonderful industry we work in, and this week we are here to celebrate the global knowledge surrounding collagen and its transformation into the component brand leather.”
He went on to say that leather is now under threat from substitutes that often use the word leather to elevate perceived value in the eye of the unwary consumer with terms such as synthetic leather, leather-like, faux-leather, composite leather and so on. He said that the member organisations of IULTCS should continue to offer support to agencies such as the International Council of Tanners, Cotance, and national bodies such as the China Leather Industry Association (hosts for the congress) that are working to differentiate leathers by implementing labelling and identification standards. “Our institutes can also do research and publish work on re-cycling, sustainability, renewability and the other positive contributions of the leather industry,” he said. “As scientists, we can clearly identify and should communicate the unique performance properties of leather. We must support high leather standards. We should celebrate those who excel and recognise their achievements. We should support those who work to raise the perceived value of leather and protect its unique and valued identity in the minds of end consumers.”
He admitted that the image of the global tanning industry can be improved, especially with regard to pollution and environmental sustainability. The technology exists to manufacture leather in a clean and environmentally sound way, and many companies do, he said. But he warned that the actions of a few can override the good behaviour of many.
“To improve our record will take concerted actions of individuals, organisations, and, because of the costs this involve, it will most likely take pressure from governments and regulators, and we hope will include the support of brand-conscious retail,” he said. “Implementation of minimum standards and attainment of best practice guidelines takes time, money and effort. The IULTCS and its members can assist with continued research, technical support, knowledge transfer, and efforts aimed at benchmarking and recognition of those who do succeed in running clean operations. There are in fact many positive examples of this happening worldwide. The IULTCS needs to support these efforts.”
He commented that a positive and cleaner image could also be important to entice talented young people to study leather, and join the industry.
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