Just right
Regardless of ever-changing social sensations, authentic luxury has the ability to keep a low profile.
Renewed interest in concepts like “quiet luxury”, “stealth wealth”, “stealth luxury” and even, over the past couple of years, in an “old-money aesthetic” when it comes to self-presentation and dress offers something of a flashback to the fashion fall-out following the 2007-2008 financial crisis. At that time, Kering-owned luxury leathergoods company Bottega Veneta’s softly woven intrecciato designs under then-creative director Tomas Maier afforded less-affected clientele opportunity for more discreet, ‘in-the-know’ indulgences. Perhaps these wealthy consumers were not as likely to attract unnecessary attention to themselves, given the rocky economic context. Now, as we face more uncertainty, these buzzwords have taken on fresh prominence in what has become a much noisier, social media-driven landscape.
Ironically, short-form videos on TikTok, where get-the-look-for-less shopping and style “dupes” are popular, have acquired special significance. Content with the tags “stealth luxury”, “stealth wealth”, “old-money aesthetic” and “quiet luxury” were generating approximately 1.7 billion, 630 million, 460 million and 135 million views, respectively, as of early June this year. Their mass appeal could be said to jar with creators’ ostensibly low- key or ‘under-the-radar’ luxury outfit goals, but they do also serve as a useful ‘trendiness’ barometer and their collective cultural impact is sizeable.
Visual literacy
The pop culture conversation surrounding a “ludicrously capacious” Burberry Title leather tote bag in the brand’s vintage check pattern, a key moment during episode one of television series Succession’s fourth and final season, is a case in point. A snobbish exchange between the two small-screen protagonists revolves around an outsider’s disproportionately large handbag against the backdrop of an expressly unflashy, but still polite, family birthday party for billionaire media tycoon Logan Roy. Mr Roy’s son-in-law is cuttingly, albeit humorously, repulsed by its very presence: “What’s even in there? Flat shoes for the subway? Her lunch pail? It’s monstrous. It’s gargantuan. You can take it camping. You can slide it across the floor after a bank job.” The idea is that the bag, and by extension its carrier, is not only inappropriate for the event, but hopelessly out of place, and even undignified. Social media users subsequently chimed in with expected clamour, as the episode aired and in conversations that followed.
So much so, Burberry’s chairman, Gerry Murphy, was asked to share his thoughts on the scene by the BBC in the spring. “It generated lots and lots of interest in Burberry bags, generally,” he said. “There is a very interesting market for big bags, and I think that the Succession exposure would have done that no harm.” The slight was not directed at the brand itself, Mr Murphy added, continuing that “the comment would [still] have been made if the bag had been from any other well-known brand”.
Never the less, one hardly had to read between the lines to see how, in true quiet luxury circles, the clash and volume of the print, not to mention the self-consciously ‘professional’ manner in which the bag was slung over its selfie-taking wearer’s shoulder, likewise contributed to the faux pas. The din from Burberry’s brasher early 2000s nova check days (and its rather questionable association with contemporary British “chav” culture), seemed uncontainable at one point and, perhaps, still rings just loudly enough to mean something, symbolically, to viewers old enough to remember.
US actress and businesswomen Gwyneth Paltrow’s subtly expensive, refined take on courtroom dressing during her recent ski accident trial, relating to a collision at a Utah country club in 2016, similarly provoked and delighted onlookers earlier this year, for reasons equally telling. At the crux of all the commotion, on this occasion, was the obvious fact that Ms Paltrow was not out of place, either on the slopes or in a legal context, despite – or perhaps precisely because – it was not immediately obvious which brands’ products she was wearing. Another quiet, but nonetheless resounding win in the “stealth wealth” stakes: she took home only a single dollar in damages after her acquittal. All things considered, Ms Paltrow drew the gaze, but ensured that viewers’ focus remained fixed on her personal performance and the all-round, ‘easy’ harmoniousness of brands Gwyneth and Goop, not to mention the dignity of her defence. Primarily thanks to the cut of a few thoughtfully chosen pieces and the quality of the logo-less fabrics used to make them, she did not distract or detract from proceedings by stirring up more drama or capitalising on the fashion house advertisement opportunities presented by her in-court, on-camera outfits. The fashion rumour mill of course went into overdrive, with some of the most well known “old-money aesthetic” and “stealth luxury” brand names cropping up: Loro Piana, Bruno Cucinelli, Hermès, Max Mara, The Row.
In good taste
Among the very many things said in the wake of the death of the UK’s longest-serving monarch, Queen Elizabeth II, last September following a 70-year reign, was that Her Majesty “never put a foot wrong”. This extended to the realm of her ensembles. She patronised the same London handbag label, Launer, for decades, for example, rarely seen without one to hand and reportedly owning as many as 200 of its leather bags at any one time. So much so, the brand’s telltale clean lines and understated, decidedly uncapacious, proportions almost melted into the serenely coordinated whole that was her symbolically mighty, though in reality quite petite, stature on the world’s stage.
Notably, as a great lover of the British countryside, The Queen was also definitely not immune to the appeal of a classic Burberry piece or print, having been spotted sporting one of its checked scarves on various occasions throughout her life. She even granted the company a Royal Warrant for weatherproofing back in 1955, only the business’ second since receiving its initial warrant from King George V for tailoring in 1919. King Charles III would later grant Burberry its third, for royal outfitting, in 1990 as the then Prince of Wales.
As today’s surviving monarchies, by their very nature, continue to show the rest of us the hard-won legacy of their forebears, perhaps life’s real luxuries can be counted in terms of quiet and steadfast confidence in one’s own tastes and decisions.
Based in Mayfair, Me´tier London’s brand more understated bags and luggage frequently accompany the show’s cast on their travels, suggesting it has at least one fan in Succession’s wardrobe department.
Credit: Metier
Regardless of ever-changing social sensations, authentic luxury has the ability to keep a low profile.
Just right
US actress and businesswomen Gwyneth Paltrow’s subtly expensive, refined take on courtroom dressing during her recent ski accident trial, relating to a collision at a Utah country club in 2016, similarly provoked and delighted onlookers earlier this year, for reasons equally telling. At the crux of all the commotion, on this occasion, was the obvious fact that Ms Paltrow was not out of place, either on the slopes or in a legal context, despite – or perhaps precisely because – it was not immediately obvious which brands’ products she was wearing. Another quiet, but nonetheless resounding win in the “stealth wealth” stakes: she took home only a single dollar in damages after her acquittal. All things considered, Ms Paltrow drew the gaze, but ensured that viewers’ focus remained fixed on her personal performance and the all-round, ‘easy’ harmoniousness of brands Gwyneth and Goop, not to mention the dignity of her defence. Primarily thanks to the cut of a few thoughtfully chosen pieces and the quality of the logo-less fabrics used to make them, she did not distract or detract from proceedings by stirring up more drama or capitalising on the fashion house advertisement opportunities presented by her in-court, on-camera outfits. The fashion rumour mill of course went into overdrive, with some of the most well known “old-money aesthetic” and “stealth luxury” brand names cropping up: Loro Piana, Bruno Cucinelli, Hermès, Max Mara, The Row.
In good taste
Among the very many things said in the wake of the death of the UK’s longest-serving monarch, Queen Elizabeth II, last September following a 70-year reign, was that Her Majesty “never put a foot wrong”. This extended to the realm of her ensembles. She patronised the same London handbag label, Launer, for decades, for example, rarely seen without one to hand and reportedly owning as many as 200 of its leather bags at any one time. So much so, the brand’s telltale clean lines and understated, decidedly uncapacious, proportions almost melted into the serenely coordinated whole that was her symbolically mighty, though in reality quite petite, stature on the world’s stage.
Notably, as a great lover of the British countryside, The Queen was also definitely not immune to the appeal of a classic Burberry piece or print, having been spotted sporting one of its checked scarves on various occasions throughout her life. She even granted the company a Royal Warrant for weatherproofing back in 1955, only the business’ second since receiving its initial warrant from King George V for tailoring in 1919. King Charles III would later grant Burberry its third, for royal outfitting, in 1990 as the then Prince of Wales.
As today’s surviving monarchies, by their very nature, continue to show the rest of us the hard-won legacy of their forebears, perhaps life’s real luxuries can be counted in terms of quiet and steadfast confidence in one’s own tastes and decisions.
Based in Mayfair, Me´tier London’s brand more understated bags and luggage frequently accompany the show’s cast on their travels, suggesting it has at least one fan in Succession’s wardrobe department.
Credit: Metier
