A century of tradition
German outdoor brand Hanwag’s manufacturing techniques enable easy resoling for boots that are eminently durable, and it is proud of its longstanding partnership with German tannery Heinen.
Cows that spend a lot of time outside in a range of weather conditions, with access to good grazing pastures, healthcare and an absence of parasites, create some of the best quality skins, which is why Bavarian shoe brand Hanwag sources most of its leather from German tannery Heinen. The former Tannery of the Year finalist uses only domestic hides and has a close relationship with its merchants, tracking which slaughterhouses and farms the animals come from. The longstanding partnership is something Hanwag is “particularly proud of”, using Heinen’s branded Terracare leathers, made with “environmentally friendly, resource efficient and socially compatible” production methods.
It has also produced ranges made from yak leather, sourced from the Lhasa Leather Factory in Tibet. “We’re not able to produce enough of our yak models – we could sell far more than we do,” the company says.
This year marks Hanwag’s 100th anniversary, an achievement it partly puts down to its faithfulness to its construction methods. “We know how mountaineering boots were made 100 years ago,” says marketing director Christian Wittig. “That’s an advantage; it means we can be progressive without losing sight of our heritage.”
Humble beginnings
Established in 1921 by Hans Wagner, a third-generation shoemaker, the company grew slowly, first from Mr Wagner’s own house, later taking on more apprentices and expanding into a workshop. Vierkirchen, near Munich, remains the company’s headquarters to this day.
Mr Wagner’s nephew Sepp joined in 1936, eager to learn the trade and to help grow the business. The factory was plundered at the end of the Second World War, but as the economy started to recover, so did the demand for ski and mountain boots. Sepp took over the management in the 1960s, and began to expand internationally, securing partnerships in the US and being well placed for the climbing and hiking boom that took off in Germany.
A central tenet of the business is the construction – double stitching and cementing – as Hanwag claims it is one of the few remaining shoemakers in its category to employ such time-consuming and costly processes. “Nowadays, to make double stitched footwear, not only do you need experience of the method, you also need to have a feel for the machines,” says production manager Harmut Trabert. “We keep them running ourselves, as there is no longer any maintenance and repair service.”
While the company prides itself on traditional values, it was modern-minded when it chose the construction techniques so they would enable easy make resoling. Extending the useful life of shoes is something we are hearing more and more, as companies look to reduce waste and tap into ‘circular thinking’. Resoling is a popular service. “These boots are perfectly worn in; people don’t want to replace them. In fact, they’re often long-standing companions and the source of many happy memories,” says Mr Trabert. “We often receive boots to be resoled that have seen years and years of use. It’s something that makes us proud of our work.”
European footprint
As the company has grown, so has production, with manufacturing now taking place at facilities in Hungary and Croatia, as well as Germany. This enables shorter transport routes and reduces corresponding CO2 emissions, compared with outsourcing to Asia, as many companies do. It claims the proximity also proved an advantage in 2020 when the pandemic hit, in terms of flexible production.
A finished Hanwag mountain boot consists of, on average, 180 separate parts around 120 processes – meaning employees are highly skilled and many remain with the company throughout their working lives. It cites some of the ‘Hanwag stories’ on its website: Franz Kreutner joined as a refugee shortly after the Second World War and stayed for 47 years, while head of research Adam Weger, who worked for Hanwag from 1968 to 2015, tested every shoe in the mountains.
After the early death of his daughter, who was previously managing director of the company, Sepp Wagner sold the family-owned business to Swedish group Fenix Outdoor in 2004. The company diversified to make more styles and tap new markets, but stayed faithful to its manufacturing techniques.
Pared-down celebrations
During the 100th anniversary year, the company plans to make 400,000 pairs of boots and shoes and capitalise on the expected increase in walking and hiking as people make the most of nature following lockdowns and restrictions. The pandemic has brought new customers to the outdoors and introduced a more balanced gender mix, according to UK brand manager Christopher King. “Our business model means we are able to offer trade customers a more interesting colour palette, as well as a better fit offering, thanks to our wide range of lasts,” he tells World Leather.
The company had originally hoped to celebrate the centenary with a big global event but, due to the pandemic, events are now taking place on a local basis. In the UK, it will have a large presence at the Keswick Mountain Festival, which takes place this September. Hanwag is confident cementing old practices and modern materials will help it through the next 100 years. “Our approach is based on employing the best craftsman, the highest quality standards and selecting the best raw materials. As to whether it’s worth the additional cost? That’s simple: it’s the only way to make such high-quality boots.”
Hanwag is proud of its roots, maintaining similar processes that were prevalent when the company started in 1921.
All credits: Hanwag
