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Featuring more than 1,000 searchable technical papers, business features, country commentaries and fashion articles from editions of World Leather going back to 2002. The papers are categorised into nine topics to make the library easy to navigate.

Select a category below to view articles

BUSINESS: Analysis & test methods, Legislation, Commentaries

more than 200 Items Found

Sacred Cow: It’s the How
The Sacred Cow project is soon to release a book and a movie, making the case for an ethical, regenerative food system built around well-raised cattle.
World Leather - Jun/July 2020
Waste worth billions
Statistics from France’s Conseil National Du Cuir provide a reminder of just how much value tanners and finished product manufacturers are able to add to hides. In the right hands, the worth of the waste that the meat and dairy sectors generate can increase by more than 2000% (two thousand per cent).
World Leather - Jun/July 2020
What else but leather?
A specialist consultancy has combined western materials, including leather from Scotland, and knowledge of Chinese culture and values to find an ideal fit in supplying furniture and interior design concepts to an independent school in Beijing.
World Leather - Jun/July 2020
Ready to face new challenges
The president of UNIC, Gianni Russo, says the overwhelming sensation that Italy’s tanners felt on returning to work after weeks of lockdown was relief, but he says patience is required among member companies as the slow recovery from the covid-19 crisis continues. Something that may help is a new law in Italy protecting the term ‘leather’ from misuse by companies that make or sell synthetic substitutes.
World Leather - Jun/July 2020
Time to put the by-product debate to bed
There are ill-founded arguments that the raw material for leather is a co-product rather than a byproduct of the meat and dairy industries. After what the Leather and Hide Council of America has called “a staggering decline” in the hide’s share of cattle value, these arguments have now collapsed.
World Leather - Jun/July 2020
Rich heritage
Millau’s leather and glove manufacturers are at the heart of an ongoing effort to win UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage status. The aim of the team behind this ambitious project is to celebrate and preserve the centuries of skill-sharing and traditions that have gone into making Millau a world-renowned centre of gloving excellence, with spin-off socio-economic benefits for partners in France and overseas.
World Leather - Jun/July 2020
The transformation continues
The entire world is being rocked by the effects of covid-19 pandemic, but the European Commission wants to press ahead with its plans for a move to a circular economy. It is willing to make extra funding of €750 billion available to help make this happen.
World Leather - Jun/July 2020
To plot a path beyond Covid-19
Tanning group PrimeAsia has leather manufacturing facilities in Huangjiang in China and in Ba Ria-Vung Tau in Vietnam. These tanneries currently have a combined production capacity of around 11 million square-feet of finished lifestyle and athletic leather per month, which the group supplies to dozens of global footwear brands. In this interview, its chief executive, Jon Clark, offers some reflections on the effects of the Covid-19 pandemic on PrimeAsia’s operations and on the wider leather industry.
World Leather - Apr/May 2020
Louboutin is loyal to leather
Shoe designer Christian Louboutin has received encouragement to try out “fake” material in his collections in place of leather. He carried out his own research into the comparative merits of both materials and drew a clear conclusion.
World Leather - Apr/May 2020
Limited editions, unlimited creativity
Designer Frederikke Antonie Schmidt’s decision to build a high heels label using leather offcuts from other brands has resulted in a shoe collection that is dynamic, playful and sustainable.
World Leather - Apr/May 2020
Keep the wheels turning
The director of industry body Leather UK, Dr Kerry Senior, argues here that, just as the covid- 19 crisis has brought new and deserved appreciation for a number of previously unrecognised ‘key worker’ roles, governments should recognise the important part leather manufacturers and tannery workers play in supporting the allimportant food supply chain.
World Leather - Apr/May 2020
Leather ‘holds so much promise’ for Niger
The Enhanced Integrated Framework tells World Leather how it is working with the government to modernise tanneries, train leather workers and set up more advanced systems for skin collection and exports.
World Leather - Apr/May 2020
Reality check - Let’s not waste a crisis
Columnist David Peters is alarmed by the volume of hide trimmings that are accumulated at wet blue facilities and then sent to a landfill. He argues that figuring out a solution to the problem of poor fleshing and trimming of hides should be perfectly feasible.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2019
In his latest column, Sam Setter says the once-thriving leather industries in Ethiopia and Bangladesh are in danger of shooting themselves in the foot.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2019
Leather claims and remarks (part one)
The authors of this paper have extensive experience in attending claims. Their aim here is to clarify and organise the procedures to follow when a tannery faces a claim from a customer. Normally, the problems involve commercial, technical and production areas and imply taking rapid action and clear communication with the client. Collecting information, being accessible and interacting with the client are crucial in solving the problem in the fastest possible way and with the least possible material (or emotional) loss.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2019
What have I got to do to make you love me?
In his latest column, David Peters describes plastic as “an environmental calamity in progress”, while leather is a true recycled raw material. And yet, new leather orders are still well short of using up the high volume of hides coming onto the market.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2019
XXXV IULTCS Congress 2019
The XXXV Congress of the International Union of Leather Technologists and Chemists Societies (IULTCS) took place in June in the city of Dresden, returning to Germany after 29 years. World Leather reports on some of the keynote speeches and interesting developments that were presented during the four-day event.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2019
Around the world
In this guest column, the international sales director of GSC Group, Diego Cisco, examines the differences and similarities in leather industry customers from Argentina to Allahabad.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2019
Leather in the fast lane
The world’s leading motorcycle apparel brands, Alpinestars and Dainese, tell us why leather will always have a special place on the track and on the road.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2019
Here we go again
Illegal assaults on farms are unacceptable, Sam Setter argues, but industries related to the raising of animals for meat and dairy need to open themselves up to public scrutiny and take steps to show that they meet or exceed all fairness standards.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2019
Leather bites the Big Apple
Manhattan was the venue for the congress, which brought tanners, brands and industry organisations under one roof to talk about the thousands of ways in which leather makes an impact on everyday life.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2019
Conference round-up
Details of talks and presentations that caught the eye and the ear at the SLTC and ALCA conferences.
World Leather - Jun/July 2019
Blame it on the bovines
Links between the meat and livestock industry and leather is one of the themes we have set out to cover in depth in the course of 2019. Part of the ongoing debate is the contribution livestock herds make to greenhouse gas emissions. The statistics are frequently misunderstood and sometimes deliberately exaggerated to paint agriculture, meat and (by extension) leather in a bad light. No one is doing more to present accurate figures and the science behind them to the wider public than Professor Frank Mitloehner.
World Leather - Jun/July 2019
DNA traceability of hides and leather
Applied DNA Sciences (ADNAS) and Eurofins BLC Leather Technology Centre last year completed a successful research project to develop a comprehensive traceability platform for leather. The organisations are now working together on the commercial implementation of this system.
World Leather - Apr/May 2019
Nature didn’t mean us to be vegans
We cannot bury the one million hides and three million skins that the meat industry produces every day, Sam Setter argues. Veganism is not the solution. The industry needs to transform the material into leather in a responsible and sustainable way.
World Leather - Apr/May 2019
‘App’ is not short for happy
David Peters calculates that if retail and restaurant businesses throughout the world could be persuaded to use just 45 square-feet of leather in each outlet to replace just a tiny part of all the plastic they use, tanners would need to process almost 30 million extra hides.
World Leather - Apr/May 2019
Bauhaus bags
Architect-turned-leathergoods-designer Elena Garcia Silva uses her knowledge of and passion for beautiful buildings in the collections she creates for Lautem, her own leathergoods brand.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2019
Leather – a sustainable choice
World Leather technical editor, Matthew Abbott, reports from the fourth annual Lanxess leather symposium, which took place at the company’s headquarters in Cologne in January.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2019
Automotive leather in 2019
Long the saving grace of the global leather industry, the automotive sector is undergoing significant changes now and questions have arisen over leather’s future in automotive. There are grounds for optimism as high-end original equipment manufacturers still prefer, and make money out of, leather upholstery. It is also the case that sports utility vehicles and crossover utility vehicles are still voracious users of leather in their interiors and amongst the car brands’ biggest sellers. But sales growth is slowing across the board. With the importance of leather in other markets waning, these recent developments in automotive are making the mood darker.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2019
Let designers share their dreams with tanners
A discussion forum at Lineapelle London in January gave designers and material experts the opportunity to tell the leather industry what hopes they have for putting leather to use in the imaginative collections of the future.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2019
The Whale in the Room
David Peters questions why plastics, which have replaced leather in a number of its most important markets, do not face higher levels of scrutiny and opposition, especially from those campaigning to protect the very animals that plastic pollution can harm.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2019
India looks for positive export momentum
Ahead of the 2019 India International Leather Fair (IILF) in Chennai, leaders of the Indian leather industry said they were targeting export growth of 8-10% over the next two years. Aided by the government support package unveiled ahead of last year’s show, it appears progress is being made.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2019
Leather project will boost jobs and exports
A start-up venture that aims to build a world-class leather and finished product operation in Nigeria launched in early 2019. The initiative, called the Pan African Leather project, will involve setting up a new tannery, a new shoe factory and other artisan workshops for finished products in Sokoto in the north-west of the country, creating employment, reducing poverty, empowering women and young people and reclaiming the region’s leather past.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2019
Fiji water—is it more sustainable than leather?
Drawing on the example of a marketing stunt that Fiji Water carried out in January, Sam Setter calls on those within the leather industry to be more aggressive when it comes to defending and promoting their highly sustainable material. Among his suggestions are direct appeals to the consumer.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2019
Diamonds spark a love of leather
An entrepreneur from London, Obi Okoronkwo, launched luxury accessories brand, Laurus, in 2016. With a showroom in Milan, Laurus appears to be following a well-trodden path, but Mr Okoronkwo’s route into leathergoods was unusual.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2018
Jurassic World
In his first column of 2019, David Peters argues that we have to accept that the leather industry has “lost the war with synthetics” and should concentrate now on consolidating its hold on the luxury market by emphasising at every turn the unique properties of leather.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2018
No shame at all
Sam Setter’s attention returns to Bangladesh, with a typically stark message for the tanners operating at the new Savar-Hemayetpur leather manufacturing cluster.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2018
You can’t handle the truth
For David Peters, cattle farmers, beef packers, food companies and restaurant chains need to “join the fight” to keep leather relevant.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2018
The needs of the many
A number of UK footwear companies have come together with the British Footwear Association (BFA) to launch a new nationally accredited apprenticeship standard that it is hoped will help train the next generation of shoemakers.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2018
From bad to worse
Sam Setter outlines the details of an alleged fraud scandal involving leather manufacturers in Bangladesh.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2018
Story of a shoemaker
Master bootmaker Jean-Michel Casalonga fell in love with Berluti shoes at the age of 19 and, through persistence and patience, convinced the brand’s craftspeople to teach him the trade. He recalls being told to touch nothing in the workshop, except with his eyes.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2018
Leather in the time of trade tensions
The writing was on the wall when the US president said at the start of 2018 that his country’s era of “economic surrender” was over. He said he wanted the US’s trade relationship with China to be “fair and reciprocal” and that he would use “strong enforcement” of trade rules to achieve that. What followed has been a year of tit-for-tat tariff escalation, which worried almost every industry involved in global trade, including leather and footwear.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2018
Mainstream shoes are not coming back
Received wisdom in the leather industry is that the price of hides always moves in a cycle from cheap to expensive and back again. Prices reached historically high levels in 2014 and 2015 and shoe companies drastically reduced the volume of leather they were using in their collections. Tanners held tight, believing that these customers would return in the time-honoured way when hide prices came down again. Prices are down. The shoe companies have not come back. The cycle appears to be broken.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2018
Put me on a highway and show me a sign
David Peters explains how the continuing surplus of raw materials has changed the dynamics of the hide market.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2018
Innovation Square: inspired by science
The organisers of Lineapelle have agreed to introduce a new component, Innovation Square, at the next exhibition (Milan, September 25-27). Start-ups will have a chance to pitch their ideas to a large variety of stakeholders, including academic institutions, as well as potential investors from the world of finance and from bigger tanning groups, who have a desire to hear about new things and the budget to back them.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2018
Regulatory requirements with an impact on leather manufacture
With the registration phase of the European Chemicals Agency’s REACH project having concluded, Dr Martin Kleban from Lanxess offers an overview of important developments in recent months.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2018
Quality is the new mantra
Sam Setter gives his thoughts on what the future holds for the leather industry at a time of abundant supplies of hides and skins and in the face of ongoing criticism from anti-leather campaign groups.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2018
A comparison between leather and alternative substrates
There is ongoing debate about the relative merits of leather and alternative materials. Many of the arguments employed are based on sentiment and appear to pay little attention to the facts. In this article, technical editor Mike Tomkin looks more closely at those facts and examines the factors that must be considered when selecting the best substrate for a particular purpose.
World Leather - Jun/July 2018
A start-up’s story
Confusion in the marketplace over the sustainability credentials of leather and its competitor materials is rife. When boating shoe brand Two Degrees launched in June this year following a successful crowdfunding campaign, its founders put special emphasis on the footwear’s environmental credentials. But finding a way to describe the materials they had chosen to use proved to be “a minefield”.
World Leather - Jun/July 2018
Time for change
The director of the UK Leather Federation, Dr Kerry Senior, argues that the leather industry must work globally to convince brands and consumers to shift away from synthetics and back to leather. His view is that a far more “active and aggressive approach” is required.
World Leather - Jun/July 2018
114th Annual Convention of the American Leather Chemists Association
Highlights from the 2018 annual convention of the American Leather Chemists Association at the Eaglewood Resort in Illinois.
World Leather - Jun/July 2018
A cut above the rest
With the help of technology solutions provider Lectra, French furniture maker Duvivier Canapés has been able to boost its production capacity and give more customers the opportunity to own a piece of its stylish leather furniture.
World Leather - Jun/July 2018
Sopite syndrome
David Peters warns that the combination of high slaughter rates and an ongoing decline in demand for leather from the footwear sector could release as many as 45 million extra hides for other sectors.
World Leather - Jun/July 2018
Examination of conscience
Sam Setter implores leather buyers to think carefully before they purchase material from tanneries in Bangladesh’s Savar district unless they want to be “accomplices to an environmental disaster”.
World Leather - Jun/July 2018
Jackson Wayne lets leather do the talking
Tennessee-based leathergoods manufacturer Jackson Wayne eschews superfluous aesthetic details when designing its products; it prefers to let the vegetable-tanned, fullgrain leather it uses speak for itself.
World Leather - Apr/May 2018
India backs leather to boost national economy
Ahead of the 2018 Indian International Leather Fair (IILF) in Chennai, the Indian government unveiled a support package of more than $400 million for the leather industry, which is seeking to get back on track following more than two years of export decline.
World Leather - Apr/May 2018
To do business or not to do business; That is the question
Sam Setter extends a potentially lucrative invitation to tanners from countries with “fewer opportunities”.
World Leather - Apr/May 2018
Parlez-vous français?
In his latest column, Sam Setter takes a closer look at the leather industries in the French-speaking parts of Africa.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2018
‘Weather’, or not?
David Peters is in optimistic mood for 2018 thanks to good demand for beef, and for furniture and automotive leather.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2018
Brazil at the start of 2018
After a turbulent twelve months, signs of optimism began to appear for the Brazilian leather industry in the early part of this year.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2018
Leather - an extraordinary material
Leather chemicals manufacturer Lanxess organised its third annual leather industry seminar in January. On this occasion, the main theme of the presentations was what differentiates leather from substitute materials.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2018
Leather or not leather? That is the question
The misuse of the term ‘leather’ and the consequences of such misuse is a topic that has generated much discussion in the leather industry in recent months. In this article, technical editor Mike Tomkin offers some insight into what can be done about it.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2018
Burberry offcuts find new lease of life
Elvis & Kresse was launched to transform old London Fire Brigade hosepipes into accessories and has now taken on the challenge of repurposing leather, teaming up with the UK-based luxury group to make a dent in the global waste problem.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2017
Woulda, coulda, shoulda
David Peters says the new year gives the global leather industry a new chance “to get it right” in the battle to win consumers’ hearts.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2017
Sustainability - more than just a word in fashion
Sam Setter insists that the leather industry is, by and large, sustainable. He acknowledges that there are exceptions, mostly in Asia and Africa, but says these examples must not dominate the world’s view of leather. Instead, the industry needs to get better at presenting itself as a sustainable sector, while working to help bring sustainability laggards up to the required levels.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2017
Leather means leather
The Global Leather Coordinating Committee wants there to be greater protection for the term ‘leather’ in the face of brands and material suppliers using it to describe synthetic substitutes.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2017
Animal Welfare
Sam Setter explores whether animal rights groups are raising legitimate questions about animal welfare in the cattle industry.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2017
Houston, we have a problem
David Peters warns that the industry must find a new home for the abundant supply of hides in the wake of leather’s drop in popularity among footwear manufacturers.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2017
Designers and purchasing teams are getting close to making a decision to “reawaken the mass use” of leather.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2017
A new challenge for the leather industry
Technical editor Mike Tomkin assesses the chemical standards that aim to standardise the industry but in some cases just add onerous processes and cost.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2017
Diverse programme at sixth Freiberg Leather Days
The 2017 Freiberg Leather Days took place in June in the southern Dutch city of Oisterwijk. World Leather reports on some of the interesting developments that were presented during the two-day conference.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2017
Where your money goes
Sam Setter gives an example of an African institution that he believes could make better use of leather industry funds.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2017
Leather industry reaches out to jobseekers
COTANCE and its social partner IndustriAll brought the European Commission-backed ‘Leather Is My Job’ project to a conclusion at an event in Igualada in June.
World Leather - June/July 2017
Material witness
In a keynote presentation that he gave at the 2017 Business of Luxury Summit in Lisbon in May, Hermès chief executive, Axel Dumas, offered a robust reaffirmation of his company’s commitment to making its much-desired bags from high-quality leather, and to making them in France.
World Leather - June/July 2017
The Cluster Challenge
Tanners in Egypt are about realise the 20-year-old dream to move their leather manufacturing cluster from Cairo to a new location, Robeiky Leather City. Sam Setter wonders if some of their ageing machinery will survive the 100-kilometre journey.
World Leather - June/July 2017
Changes in leather education
It’s clear there are fresh challenges for leather education and many of those already involved are adapting as quickly as possible.
World Leather - June/July 2017
“Blame It on the Bossa Nova”
Does the record fine of around $3.2 billion imposed on JBS, Brazil’s giant meat processor, reflect a general decline in integrity, honesty and values, in society and in business, including the leather and hide business?
World Leather - June/July 2017
The Summer of Love
Regular columnist David Peters gives his thoughts on March’s APLF exhibition in Hong Kong and reserves special praise for tanners in Brazil.
World Leather - Apr/May 2017
Make my day
More on the industry in Africa from Sam Setter, with the focus this time on Zimbabwe. Our columnist feels Zimbabwe and other African countries could do worse than emulate the export strategies of their counterparts in India, Pakistan and Bangladesh.
World Leather - Apr/May 2017
Stahl moves to acquire BASF’s leather business
Stahl announced in March that it had agreed to acquire the leather chemicals business of rival manufacturer BASF. The deal is expected to be completed in the fourth quarter of 2017, subject to the approval of the relevant authorities.
World Leather - Apr/May 2017
Inspired by art
Australian footwear design student Kira Goodey has won the fifth ‘Craft the Leather’ prize in an annual outreach competition organised by Tuscany’s Consortium for Genuine Italian Vegetable-Tanned Leather. A particular piece of Tuscan art was the main inspiration for her entry, a shoe design that swept the panel of judges away.
World Leather - Apr/May 2017
Lanxess Seminar 2017
For the second year running, leather chemicals manufacturer Lanxess hosted a seminar devoted to the leather industry at its headquarters in Cologne in early 2017. This follow-up to an event it organised a year earlier attracted 85 delegates, mostly from finished product brands, a substantial increase compared to the number who attended in 2016.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2017
A new leather standard
Research and testing organisation the Oeko-Tex Association has launched a leather standard for the first time. Already 18 organisations around the world are able to carry out formal testing of semi-finished and finished leather, as well as of leathergoods, to check they meet Oeko-Tex requirements.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2017
African blues
Sam Setter continues his assessment of the tanning industry in Africa and of frustrations around missed opportunities to help the industry on that continent.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2017
For the love of gloves
Naples-based Gloves dei Fratelli Forino relies on the age-old combination of skilled craftspeople and carefully selected materials to produce a range of elegant leather gloves for all occasions.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2017
The old 45 is scratched
2017 is shaping up to be a good year for the leather industry as mainstream footwear brands and manufacturers begin to examine ways in which to use more leather. Regular columnist David Peters takes a closer look.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2017
Cogitations, the New Year and Zorro
What is the hide market going to do in 2017? What is the direction and why? Regular columnist David Peters has consulted with industry insiders in almost 20 countries to find the answers.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2016
Cheaney’s customers are spoilt for choice
Men’s footwear brand Joseph Cheaney has launched a customisation initiative with 1.2 million possible permutations, giving customers the chance to own a truly unique pair of handcrafted shoes.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2016
ReVeal – the Dutch veal and calfskin industry opens its doors
Leather chemicals manufacturer Stahl hosted a one-day event called ReVeal last November. The aim was to give finished product brands up-to-date information about transparency and traceability in the leather supply chain, with the focus firmly on Dutch calf leather.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2016
Serious about leather - serious about sustainability
Dr Matthias Halusa, global vice-president of BASF’s leather chemicals business unit, reflects on his first six months working with tanners around the globe. He says he’s impressed by how serious the leather industry is about sustainability.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2016
Malawi blues
African economies, in spite of their well-advertised strategies, in spite of all the development aid that is put at their disposal, are hand to mouth. We live today and when tomorrow comes, we will see. In the real world it’s the results that count, not the number of participants in a workshop.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2016
Leather shoes an endangered species
Focus on: Footwear. Not long ago, few would have argued that any material other than leather was the best option for shoe uppers. Now the notion frequently is being challenged, on technical, cost and environmental grounds and footwear’s share of global leather production has declined from around 65% in 2009 to nearer 55% today. There is work for tanners and the wider leather industry to do to preserve a relationship that has endured for thousands of years.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2016
Keep it in the family
Focus on: Footwear. Family-run business Horween Leather Company has been tanning leather for over 100 years. It has developed strong relationships with several footwear brands who use its leather to add a touch of luxury to their products.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2016
India: a shoo-in for leather footwear?
Focus on: Footwear. With several German footwear companies now choosing to manufacture their leather shoes in India, World Leather examines whether the country is capable of rising to the challenge.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2016
Hard times
The going is really tough. Press releases of many national leather associations complain that business is bad. Hide and skin exporters and tanneries are having a very tough time. In spite of reducing their prices they still have great difficulty finding a market for their products.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2016
Only organic leather will do
When Norwegian leathergoods brand Hvrmnnsn decided it wanted to bring out a luxury tote bag in certified organic leather it found “the obvious choice” of partner in Swedish tanner and leathergoods manufacturer Tärnsjö Garveri.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2016
Domestic growth beyond dispute in China and India
Focus on: Footwear. Ongoing economic growth in China and India should be good news for the footwear industry, at least domestically, in both countries.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2016
Reality check
After a sustained drive these past six years, light vehicle sales are losing traction and the long and winding road is now causing manufacturers to decelerate. North American volumes have peaked with their 2015 highs and while the proportion both of SUV and luxury cars has grown, overall the numbers are slowing. However, there will continue to be demand for leather from automotive companies, just that, having been operating in the fast lane for some time, growth looks likely to slow down.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2016
End of an era
Focus on: Footwear. Stuart Weitzman is to step down as creative director of his eponymous brand as Coach begins to stamp its mark on the brand it purchased in 2015.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2016
The secrets of the rue Marbeuf
Focus on: Footwear. A workshop that luxury shoe brand Berluti set up in the rue Marbeuf in the heart of Paris in the 1940s is still the place that brand’s most discerning (and patient) customers go to for handcrafted bespoke shoes.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2016
A revamped industry
Focus on: Footwear. A senior figure in the industry in Spain has said changes in the footwear supply chain are revolutionising the way the industry works. Five years from now, he warns, the industry will be unrecognisable; the new ways companies make and sell shoes are set to have a big impact. Tanneries supplying the footwear producers will need to be aware of the possible changes in the supply chain.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2016
Via La Moda breathes new life into exotic leather
Via La Moda, a South Africa-based manufacturer of handbags made from ostrich, crocodile and python skin, keeps a respect for leather at the centre of everything it does.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2016
Times are tough for luxury brands
Several of Europe’s top luxury fashion brands have blamed a drop in tourists visiting the region for a slowdown in their revenues. World Leather examines if the statistics back up this theory.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2016
Slumber party
The wave of insularity that seems to be sweeping the world at the moment could perhaps, in time, lead to countries re-establishing their own tanneries and finished product factories on the back of a new ‘buy local’ movement.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2016
Made in Italy, 100%
Leathergoods manufacturers are among those who have benefited from the worldwide success of the ‘Made in Italy’ label. But it turns out that some bags are more ‘Made in Italy’ than others.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2016
Changing of the guard at Burberry
Burberry has completed a significant reshuffle of its management team. The changes, which include the naming of Marco Gobbetti as its new CEO, are the result of an ongoing “strategic review” of the business conducted in response to disappointing financial results.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2016
Savoir-faire laid bare
Luxury leathergoods brands owe their success to the army of artisans who use their skill and know-how to create beautiful bags and other products. Most of the time, their hard work takes place out of the spotlight and away from the public eye. However, as this article shows, at least two major luxury groups have taken steps recently to give their craftsmen and women some richly deserved recognition.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2016
Peanuts and monkeys
The leather industry is again going through a crisis period, so tanners are complaining even more than usual. The periods between ups and downs are becoming shorter so when previously a crisis period lasted a year or two and the recovery from the crisis 10 years, now the crisis period remains the same but the recovery period is shorter. Everywhere production is down and in some countries, like Pakistan and Bangladesh, as low as 30%-50% of the normal capacity.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2016
On home soil
There is much talk of ‘in-sourcing’, bringing the manufacture of finished goods back to brands’ home markets, but in the last few years, luxury group Hermès has quietly gone beyond just talking about it and has opened several new leathergoods factories in France.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2016
Kering’s unfair burden on leather
A report in which luxury group Kering assesses progress against its own sustainability targets carries mixed news. Some of the work the group has done is excellent, and its offer to share its findings with the rest of the industry is admirable, but however it places far too great a share of its carbon footprint on leather.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2016
New spirit of unity
Italy’s national tanning industry association, UNIC, appears to have started out on a new footing under president Gianni Russo. A new air of unity, of positivity and of commitment to the development of the industry, domestically and internationally, was in evidence at the 2016 UNIC Assembly.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2016
Not ‘perfect’, but beautiful
Thanks to growing demand for authenticity, simplicity, naturalness and honesty, trends experts believe consumers are on the point of accepting that the rugged look of lightly finished leather is beautiful, ‘imperfections’ included.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2016
Focus on Automotive Leather: Better from Brazil
Improvements in livestock farming and in raw material handling are helping Brazilian packers produce better quality raw material, argues JBS Couros’s Guilherme Motta. He believes it could be time for automotive companies to make more use of Brazilian hides.
World Leather - June/July 2016
Focus on Automotive Leather: A bold decision pays off
Arzignano-based tanning company Gruppo Dani made no automotive leather until 2009. Now customers in the automotive industry consume 50% of all the leather the group produces.
World Leather - June/July 2016
Spyker places highvalue on leather
Luxury automobile manufacturer Spyker presented its latest offering to the super sportscar market, the C8 Preliator, at the 2016 Geneva International Motor Show. The Dutch company makes the bold claim that the interior of its new model features the “highest-quality leather available in the market”.
World Leather - June/July 2016
Focus on Automotive Leather: Cars claim a bigger shareas the cake gets smaller
Industry expert David Peters says the producers of automotive leather are enjoying some of the best times in their history at the moment, but that securing the ongoing availability of the right kind of raw material to keep meeting OEMs’ needs is a challenge the industry must face up to.
World Leather - June/July 2016
Focus on Automotive Leather: Leather cutting “two industrial revolutions” behind the times
Speaking at the 2016 Automotive Leather conference that his company, a specialist provider of automated leather cutting technology, organised in Bordeaux in April, Roy Shurling, Director of Lectra North America, said he believes leather cutting is “two industrial revolutions back”.
World Leather - June/July 2016
SLTC 119th Annual Conference
The 119th Annual Conference of the Society of Leather Technologists and Chemists (SLTC) was held at the University of Northampton on 23rd April. This was followed in the evening by the SLTC Annual Dinner Dance.
World Leather - June/July 2016
Focus on Automotive Leather: Surface tension
The car interiors of the future will have to offer robust, high-tech-enabled surfaces that are attractive to look at and pleasant to come into contact with.Tanners must prepare to produce leather that can meet these requirements.
World Leather - June/July 2016
Focus on Automotive Leather: Volkswagen “debacle” can help the leather industry
An expert on automotive market research, Dr Axel Sprenger, has said he thinks the best way for the automotive leather industry to secure a successful future for itself is to redouble its efforts to make the leather that goes into cars as natural as possible.
World Leather - June/July 2016
Focus on Automotive Leather:Change is coming,whether we like it or not
Leather chemicals company Stahl believes that the automotive industry is about to experience more change than it has done in 100 years, with an enhanced importance for car interiors as one of the most significant developments.
World Leather - June/July 2016
Comment. David Peters: “I’ve fallen and I can’t get up” The market is old and tired
Consumers have grown so used to choosing shoes based on photographs on a website, they may “no longer connect with the sensory aspects of leather”. This has led to a situation in which what the shoe feels like comes a distant second to what it looks like, and touching and feeling the product before buying is no longer necessary. This has made it easier for brands to“de-content leather from footwear”. Profit margin is an important factor, too, of course. The record-setting hide prices of 2014 have caused leather to lose a meaningful segment of theshoe industry and it is doubtful that this sector will return any time soon.
World Leather - June/July 2016
Focus on Automotive Leather: Car interiors, a new world
Automotive industry expert Professor Ferdinand Dudenhöffer believes the industry hasa bright future and that suppliers of materials for automotive interiors are poised totake up one of the most important positions in the entire car supply chain.
World Leather - June/July 2016
Comment. Sam Setter: The Ansari vision
This article views things from a positive point of view on Bangladesh. As you may have read over last month the first tanneries are preparing to move to the new industrial area bytransferring old machines from Hazaribagh to Savar. The most important factor for the tanners, whom it would bedifficult to describe as modern industrialists, is that whateveris done should cost as little as possible; this is their view,rather than seeing the shift as an opportunity to start fromscratch and to start with a clean slate.
World Leather - June/July 2016
Focus on Automotive Leather: BRIC growth is only half the story
Automotive brands pinning hopes for growth on the four BRIC economies that were,once, among the fastest-developing in the world need to think again.
World Leather - June/July 2016
Furniture for the future
Bavarian furniture manufacturer Bru¨hl & Sippold has won more than 60 national and international design awards. A twin passion for quality leather and respecting the planet is at the heart of the company. Through a combination of skillful craftspeople and high-quality materials, it aspires to find a balance between style and sustainability.
World Leather - Apr/May 2016
The recent narrative continues to emphasise the cause and effect of high hide prices: it is the move to alternative substrates of major shoe brand, which feeds assumptions that leather has become overpriced for the marketplace. The demands of the ‘athleisure’ trend have not helped; the growth big footwear groups are reporting has come mostly from casual shoes made from canvas.
World Leather - Apr/May 2016
Sensible or senseless standards - that is the question
The world is changing and the requirements of consumers change accordingly, not just for the product itself, which is dictated by ‘big fashion’ anyway, but also for the materials that go into the product and how it is made. We often talk about what is generally referred to in a wider sense as corporate social responsibility (CSR). This encompasses traceability, animal welfare, proper treatment of workers, environmental impact and safety of the product. With regards to leather, this is obviously very much related to the chemicals that are used in tannage, finishing and production.
World Leather - Apr/May 2016
Somalia’s growing livestock sector reports record exports
With help from the FAO, the country will focus on its leather industry to add more value domestically.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2016
U-turn in car concepts
Stahl has lent its know-how to a driverless car design by Swiss company Rinspeed that showcases innovative technologies and debuts glow-in-the-dark leather.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2016
India sets an ambitious goal
The Indian government has the leather sector an ambitious target of increasing turnover to $27 billion by 2020, up from around $12 billion last year, of which $6.5 billion came from exports
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2016
Bangladesh: a view from the ground
We are delighted to welcome as a new, regular columnist well known industry commentator Sam Setter, who will be writing exclusively in World Leather from now on.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2016
Regular leatherbiz columnist David Peters makes it clear that, while last year was one of the best in a long time for automotive tanners (some of whom are likely to have to expand production), a malaise continues to hang over the leather industry as a whole because of the move towards synthetic materials among many footwear producers.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2016
RSL, ZDHC and the brands
Leather chemicals manufacturer Lanxess ran a successful two-day seminar in Cologne in January, offering representatives of a wide range of finished product brands detailed information and in-depth discussion on the subject of how restricted substance lists are affecting the production of leather.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2016
Predictions for 2016
It’s customary for commentators to offer predictions at the start of a new year. Regular leatherbiz columnist David Peters did just that in the blog section of World Leather’s partner website at the end of 2015. This is an edited version of his account of what is likely to happen in the hide and leather industry in the course of this year and launches a new, regular comment section in World Leather.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2015
The future of European leather
COTANCE, the leather industry’s representative body to the European Commission, spent 2015 looking in detail at what the European leather industry might look like in 2025. Working with its “social partner”, trade union organisation industriAll, it held four seminars in four different countries. Each seminar examined a different aspect of the industry of the future. This article offers a summary of the main themes to emerge from the discussions.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2015
Time for testing to have one voice
Testing body SGS wants to bring a new initiative called Tiered Testing to the leather and footwear sector. It insists that suppliers’ necessity to comply with regulations and restricted substance lists (RSLs) is only going to intensify in years to come. As there is nowhere to hide, it wants companies at all stages of the supply chain to share the compliance burden.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2015
Power play
Irish designer Úna Burke uses vegetable-tanned leather to create eye-catching sculptures and accessories that have earned her an army of celebrity fans.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2015
Regional Commentary: China 2015
The China Leather Industry Association is positive about the industry’s future despite slowing growth; footwear consultant Peter Mangione tells us what effects the Trans-Pacific Partnership might have on shoe trade; and chemicals company Biosk explains a ‘revolutionary’ process for managing wastewater.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2015
Global industry meets for Milan congress
On behalf of the International Council of Tanners (ICT), Italy’s tanning industry association, UNIC, organised an industry congress in Milan in September. Under the title Trends And Future Challenges, the event attracted some 400 delegates from around the world.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2015
Haglöfs extends sustainability aims
The brand has set the bar high so there can be no accusations of greenwashing, and has introduced a set of criteria for footwear to carry its Take Care label.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2015
Why US hide export figures were wrong for years
All markets need information and one of the most frequently updated sources of information in the global leather industry is the data on cattle slaughter and hide trade that the US issues. For years, however, the statistics relating to the volume of hides and skins US packers and traders export have been flawed. This article examines where those numbers went wrong and what the US Hide, Skin and Leather Association has done to put matters on a firmer footing.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2015
Kangaroos and alligators
L­­­isa Sorrell makes probably the most striking cowboy boots that money can buy, and yet this came about purely by chance.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2015
Wrap artists
With projections that the automotive industry will consume an increasing volume of leather in the next five years, its suppliers everywhere will have to be ready. Faurecia’s specialist leather cutting plant in Slovakia believes Europe will remain a key part of the automotive supply picture and that it will be able to respond quickly.
World Leather - June/July 2015
Leather companies hope to capitalise on ‘Made in Britain’ ethos
A raft of UK-based finished goods start-ups suggest demand is there – but can the tanning industry benefit, or does business go elsewhere?
World Leather - June/July 2015
Fashion school project keeps young designers in touch with Tuscany
Industry body the Consorzio Vera Pelle Italiana Conciata al Vegetale became concerned about a lack of knowledge of Tuscany’s vegetable-tanned leather among designers and, four years ago, launched a special project to bring students and teachers from design schools around the world to the region for one week each spring in the hope of increasing awareness and appreciation of the local leather industry’s trademark product.
World Leather - June/July 2015
Revision of the Quality Management System ISO 9001:2015
by Ulrich Wegner, Head of the Certification Body, TÜV SÜD Management Service GmbH, Germany. The revised ISO 9001 offers more flexibility regarding process documentation as a part of the management system. This applies to the documentation of management, strategy and core processes as well as support processes such as maintenance and qualification of persons.
World Leather - Apr/May 2015
Dutch boost for Mongolia’s leather sector
A new project brings together tanners, chemicals, finished goods manufacturers and brands in a bid to create a transparent, sustainable supply chain in a re-emerging industry. Fashion designer Hans Ubbink has put his weight behind the initiative, which is hoped might become a blueprint for others.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2015
Beast to Beauty: Out of the ordinary
Practically all the leather in the world comes from animals raised for meat: cows, sheep, pigs and goats. There are exceptions and some of them make the industry substantially more colourful.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2014
Luxury in the leather industry
London-based designer Bill Amberg, a renowned champion of leather, was one of the speakers at the 2014 Sustainability Forum, organised by Brazilian Tanning Industry Association, CICB, in Novo Hamburgo. This opinion piece is based on the talk he gave at the event.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2014
All China Leather Exhibition 2014
This year’s All China Leather Exhibition (ACLE) takes place in Shanghai from September 3 until September 5, drawing exhibitors and visitors from all parts of the global leather industry.
World Leather - Aug/Sept 2014
Beast to Beauty: The scourge of counterfeiting
The fifth Beast to Beauty conference, was held in London, and addressed how cheap imitations, false labelling and fraud has a profound impact on leathergoods companies, their supply chains and consumers.
World Leather - June/July 2014
Regional Commentary China: China’s roller coaster
World Leather’s Market Intelligence reports over the last six months have described in detail “one of the most confusing periods for the global hides, skins and tanning industry” that we can remember. Record hide prices until March have been curbed by the elimination of tanning capacity in Hebei province, where the Chinese government has shut down a number of tanneries deemed too polluting. The knock-on effects are rumbling through the market.
World Leather - June/July 2014
Brazil’s leather sector gathers momentum
The US warns of the impact of declining herd sizes while South America weighs up shifting trade policies and hide shortages.
World Leather - Apr/May 2014
After Latin America, the world
Colombian entrepreneur Mario Hernández launched his own clothing and leathergoods manufacturing company in the 1970s, but took a decision in 1997 to stop making good products for others and to put his own name on them. He steadily built up a chain of more than 100 stockists across the globe and has more than 60 own-brand stores. He now seeks global recognition as the Latin American luxury leathergoods brand ‘por excelencia’ and to open stores all over the world.
World Leather - Apr/May 2014
Beast to Beauty: Manti
Manti Fashion Accessories is proud of its Kolkata roots and is making an increasing impression on export markets, but it says it has concerns about being able to continue to tap into the talent and expertise of the local workforce.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2014
Climate protection and leather
In recent years, the commitment of a company to climate protection has developed into a central competitive factor.The Verband der Deutschen Lederindustrie (Association of the German Leather Industry) recognised the need for a certification of an energy-efficient manufacturing process at a very early stage. In cooperation with the Forschungsgemeinschaft Leder and I-T-G GmbH Gomaringen, the ECO2L label for the documentation of a qualified CCF, and an energy oriented corporate policy was developed.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2014
Tanning Tech 2013
Ever more focus upon leather production engineering
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2013
Hide to High Street
The second edition of the UK-based conference.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2013
Regional commentary: Europe
With the EC addressing the ‘problem of labelling’ and COTANCE calling for changes in skin trading, the industry is in a state of consultation about the optimal way forward.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2013
Sustainability: Getting the numbers right
Many companies in all parts of the leather industry are looking at the age profile of their employees. In many instances they have a large cohort of employees who will retire between now and 2020. The demographic challenge being faced by many companies with large numbers of these people and the ongoing restructuring in the industry are just two of the current challenges creating the need for more well trained staff throughout the leather sector.
World Leather - Oct/Nov 2013
Relationships in the formation of hexavalent chrome: Part 2
Investigations regarding the manufacture of leather articles were carried out by the Test & Research Institute Pirmasens, where the potential influence of adhesives and heat on the formation of Chrome (VI) in leather and shoes were investigated.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2012
Colourfastness and ageing of leather to artificial light at high temperatures
In view of the increasingly important role of leather for many vehicle manufacturers, the testing of heat-light resistance has been examined in detail as part of an inter-laboratory round robin test, with a particular focus on the influence of humidity, the use of various lighting apparatus and the visual assessment of the results in comparison with a colorimetric instrumental assessment.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2012
Influence of humidity and temperature on leather
The effect of change in the dimensional stability of leather can be significant when subjected to changes in temperature and relative humidity. The results of the determination of these dimensional changes can vary from one laboratory to another for the same sample of leather. In order to limit possible errors, the causes attributable to the testing procedure were investigated within the framework of inter-laboratory trials.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2012
Biological nitrogen elimination with simultaneous biological sulfide oxidation
Cleaning tannery wastewater has never been a trivial task, especially for those leather manufacturers who directly discharge into surface waters. Because of the dramatic savings in water consumption that have been achieved over recent decades by Bader, the wastewater is usually highly concentrated, especially with nitrogen compounds. However, a targeted denitrification process combined with simultaneous sulfide oxidation allows the company to eliminate the nitrogen compounds from the wastewater by at least 70% and at a reasonable cost.
World Leather - June/July 2012
Benchmarking: Part 1
Benchmarking: a process by which a business systematically measures itself against a better performing business, and then adopts and adapts any functions or procedures shown to be more effective.
World Leather - 06 - Oct 2008
Elements in the Leather Industry (Part 2)
The elements of the periodic table have a diverse and interesting history. This article will attempt to bring some richness to the elements that are used or are present in the manufacture of leather or the treatment of its waste. This is not intended to be an exhaustive academic indulgence but more of an interesting interlude.
World Leather - 01 - Feb/Mar 2008
Test methods in brief: Number 11
Colour fastness of leather to water spotting - EN ISO 15700 / IUF 420
World Leather - 08 - Dec/Jan 2007
Test methods in brief: Number 9
Colour fastness of leather to rubbing
World Leather - 07 - Nov 2007
Technology: The International School of Tanning Technology (ISTT), South Africa
Situated in Grahamstown, close to the southern tip of Africa is a leather school with an excellent pedigree. Established in 1999 it now provides much of the educational needs for the Southern African Development Community (SADC) including countries such as Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe and Kenya.
World Leather - 06 - Oct 2007
Test methods in brief: Number 10
Colour fastness of leather to water.
World Leather - 04 - June/July 2007
Formaldehyde analysis: Test methods and results
There have been recent changes in the understanding of the toxicity of formaldehyde, and a proposed change in the testing method. With the realisation that the greatest risk to human health comes from airborne formaldehyde, test methods are now tending to change to reflect this.
World Leather - 03 - May 2007
Back to Basics: A framework for leather manufacture. Essay 17, Part 2
Dry, flat and extended leathers: The role of strain within the drying cycle; and the effects of stress within the drying cycle.
World Leather - 01 - Feb/Mar 2007
Technology: A problem shared is a problem solved
Problem solving within the leather industry.
World Leather - 01 - Feb/Mar 2007
Test methods Number 7: Colour fastness of leather to migration into plasticised PVC
The colour fastness in respect of migration into plasticised poly vinyl chloride — PVC — is the transfer of colour from leather to white plasticised PVC at 50°C.
World Leather - Oct 2006
Test method Number 8: Colour fastness of leather to perspiration
The fastness of colour of leather to perspiration means its resistance to the prolonged action of an artificial perspiration solution.
World Leather - Oct 2006
A practical evaluation of replacement white retanning syntans
This study presents the findings from an evaluation made on commercial replacement syntans.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2006
The properties of leather: strength and stretch
Strength and stretch across the skin area and the effect of splitting.
World Leather - June/July 2006
Microbiological testing of leather
Growing competition from lower cost countries in the Far East has forced the predominantly small- and medium-sized enterprises that comprise Europe's footwear industry to adopt innovative features and optimise comfort. One area to receive increased attention is the microbial resistance of upper leathers and, as a consequence, the test methods used to ensure their quality in this respect.
World Leather - June/July 2006
A salt-free pickling regime for hides and skins
This paper describes a series of pilot studies to investigate salt-free pickling systems based on phenol sulfonic acid preparations on hides, sheepskins pelts, and woolsheep leading to the successful commercialisation of the findings.
World Leather - June/July 2006
Test methods in brief: Number 6
Colour fastness of small samples to dry cleaning solutions.
World Leather - May 2006
Test methods in brief: Number 5
Colour fastness of leather to machine washing.
World Leather - May 2006
Enhancing commom effluent treatment with a reed bed system
Since the introduction of reed beds in India in 1997, a number of reed beds using SP. Trema have been set up and investigated for both secondary and tertiary treatment.
World Leather - April 2006
The potential of silicates in leather production. Part 2
Benefits with new chemical procedures, and the development of a new commodity.
World Leather - April 2006
Back to Basics: A framework for leather manufacture. Essay 12
Reciprocating multi-roller machines: The fleshing machine in operation.
World Leather - April 2006
Vegetable tannage of heavy leathers
Over and above the type of skin or hide, the characteristics of vegetable tanned heavy leathers are highly dependent on the nature of the vegetable tanning material selected; the percentage of tannin offered; and the levels of acids and salts in the tannage.
World Leather - April 2006
Back to Basics: A framework for leather manufacture. Essay 11
Although there is considerable information available on the construction of machines in the tannery, there is very little detail available on the engineering principles involved. Moreover, there is even less information available concerning the way that forces are absorbed by hides and skins under different conditions, and the outcomes from these interactions.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2006
The scientific detective: Test methods and their importance fior specifications
How do you find the right balance between over specification and ensuring the correct quality level?
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2006
The resistance of wet-white pre-tanning systems to mould growth
The resistance of wet-white pre-tanning systems to mould growth when supported by various fungicides
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2006
Otzi died with his boots on
In 1991 a deep frozen corpse was discovered at 3,210 metres on top of a mountain on the border between Austria and Italy. He has been nicknamed Otzi and has been the subject of intense scientific research. The ancient footwear fascinated Petr Hlavacek from Zlin's Thomas Bata University who has reconstructed Otzi's boots.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2006
Test methods Number 3: Colour fastness of leather to light: Xenon lamp
An explanation of the method used to determine the resistance of the colour of leather to the action of a standard artificial light source.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2005
Test methods Number 4: Colour fastness of leather to mild washing
An explanation of the testing methods concerning the colour fastness of leather to mild washing.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2005
Anaerobic digestion of tannery sludge: Lowering salinity to reduce sludge volume
An investigation was performed to minimise the volume of tannery sludges by bio-degradation. To overcome the inhibiting effects caused by inorganic solubles used in leather manufacture, a novel technique was employed to reduce the salts content of these sludges. This article looks at the success of this investigation.
World Leather - Nov 2005
The real cost of a kilo of salt
The following paper provides an overview of a different approach to tanning. The technique is managed in the ‘non-swelling’ pH zone, and thus eliminates the need for salt within the conventional acid pickle. The fibre stabilisation provided – somewhat similar to a pretannage with glutaraldehyde – allows strong leather characteristics, such as those provided by conventional chrome tannage, to be developed within a main tanning or retanning stage.
World Leather - Nov 2005
The effects of salinity on the treatment of tannery effluents and sludges
Within the biological treatment of tannery effluent, the general approach uses aerobic bacteria maintained in suspension to digest nutrients within the effluent. Soluble effluent components that have a high oxygen demand are converted into a fine suspension of bacterial clusters and are removed as solids. However, systems that rely on anaerobic bacterial action can also be usefully employed to remove components that otherwise would produce a high oxygen demand in the effluent.
World Leather - Nov 2005
Optimum chrome tanning of hides and modified Thrublu process for lime-split hides
Chrome tanning for a long time enjoyed a unique position amongst tanners and almost 90% of leather produced is chrome tanned. A number of studies have been published suggesting that Chromium(III) itself may be toxic at higher levels and Chromium(VI) is a known carcinogen. So, tanners have to consider how best to modify their tanning process for better exhaustion of chrome and look for alternative means to minimise the impact of tanning on the environment.
World Leather - Nov 2005
Münzing goes for growth: 175 years on
Older than Bayer or BASF and still 100% family owned, Münzing Chemie GmbH remains rooted in same location where it was founded nearly two centuries ago. Its technologies have evolved but yet retain an uncanny resemblance to the procedures and the advanced thinking of the founder. Leveraging these technologies into the 21st century has been the responsibility of the sixth generation and the young Michael Münzing seems well prepared to show that the time of successful family companies is back in the ascendancy.
World Leather - Oct 2005
Removing phospholipids from hides: Looking back on a “New perspective on wet processing”
The paper "New perspective on wet processing" was published in World Leather October/November 1993, in which the advantages offered by the removal of phospholipids were discussed. Given that the value of raw hides and leather selling prices - strongly influenced by area and quality - are so important to the tanner, perhaps it's time to re-evaluate this technology.
World Leather - Oct 2005
Colorimetry in the finishing process
Worldwide-web-supported system for colorimetry and colour formulation can be used to complement expertise in colour standardisation and formulation. This means in practice that there is no longer any need to send data or colour samples halfway round the world by post or courier to ensure that a recipe gives exactly the right shade.
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2005
Formaldehyde-free leather – a realistic objective?
There is an increasing demand for “formaldehyde-free” leather. No legal regulation presently exists for this chemical in the EU, but in many areas of application the amount of formaldehyde contained in leather is limited by technical specifications or eco-labels.
World Leather - June/July 2005
A practical evaluation of acrylic resins
This study describes a method for evaluating commercial acrylic resins as used in retannage. By means of in-house tests, this technique can prove useful to tanneries in the selection of resin retanning agents that, from a cost-effectiveness point of view, best suit their purposes.
World Leather - June/July 2005
Corrected or non-corrected grain? FILK-QMA-1201 — a method to evaluate finished leather
The main objective of grain correction of leathers is to remove surface defects. If the defects are slight, then buffing can be very light, so that only a small amount of the grain is removed by abrasion.
World Leather - April 2005
Conflicting test methods
The European Committee for Standardisation (CEN) is responsible for the generation of harmonised standards for member states within the European Union. Since its establishment, many national standards like BS, DIN, NF and
World Leather - April 2005
A practical evaluation of dyestuffs
In recent years, following increases in the price of raw materials and chemicals, the competition of new markets such as China and India, and the introduction of ever stricter laws on pollution and environmental impact, it has become
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2005
The determination of Cr(VI) by test method IUC18/CEN/TS14495
The publication of the test method CEN/TS 14495(1)(identical to IUC 18) last year—which focused on the determination of Cr(VI) in leather—became the subject of discussion in Germany and across the whole of Europe.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2004
At the cutting edge: clothing leathers
There are two quite different outlets for leather clothing, where, in addition to good tensile strength and resistance to tearing, very specific properties for protection are required. One area of use requires high protection against abrasion, the other a high level of heat and flame resistance.
World Leather - Nov 2004
Leather conservation in Africa
Some people get all the luck. The phone rings and someone says: “You remember the gilt leather frieze in the Drawing Room? Well, we’ve just come to the end of a large restoration project and there is some money left…”
World Leather - Aug/Sep 2004
At the cutting edge: gloving leathers
There are three main areas where special properties are demanded of gloving leathers: industrial gloves, fire fighters' gloves and gloves that protect against thermal risks.
World Leather - June/July 2004
Back to Basics: Environmental - Part 5 of 10
Nitrogen is contained in several different components in tannery effluent and sometimes there is a need to differentiate between these sources.
World Leather - April 2004
Study and restoration of leather shoes from 18th Century burials
In 1991, when the pavement of the parish church of Sant Baldiri in Sant Boi de Llobregat, Barcelona, was replaced, three 18th Century graves were revealed. In one tomb a pair of leather shoes was found; the following article describes the results of the analysis and restoration of the shoes.
World Leather - April 2004
Back to Basics: Environmental - Part 4 of 10
Components within waste-waters, their characteristics and environmental effects.
World Leather - Feb/Mar 2004
False hexavalent chromium determinations
Considerable discussion and research has taken place into the potential weaknesses and accuracy of the diphenylcarbazide determination of hexavalent chromium in leather. Despite these reservations, the general attitude has been to accept that hexavalent chromium - as determined by diphenylcarbazide methods - is real and hazardous.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2003
Star-burst: measurement of tear and deformation
A new test method for shoe upper leathers has been developed that can measure the tear and deformation properties of a leather in a single test piece. Known as Star-burst, this technique offers practical benefits in terms of both speed and cost.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2003
Back to Basics: Environmental - Part 3 of 10
Components within waste waters, their characteristics and environmental effects.
World Leather - Dec/Jan 2003
Weight = area?
Within the leather making sector the preference for hide purchases based on area instead of weight have been the subject of debate and investigation. However, neither measurement by weight nor area provides a truly accurate yardstick for predicting either yields or costings.
World Leather - Nov 2003
Natural and artificial ageing of upholstery leather
A problem for any manufacturer is that a guarantee period for the product must be taken into account although the precise conditions of use are unknown. Test methods are therefore required which simulate the conditions of use, and the changes which occur naturally over a number of years
World Leather - June/July 2003

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